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Old 02-24-2009, 06:38 AM   #1126
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John St.Amant or anyone else- didi you ever come up with a solution, or a fix from assoc or yourself for the uneven front caster problem? Just wondering what the fix was, or which part was bad, remedy, etc... Haven't seen it here yet, but good to know what the fix is if it pops up... THANKS!!
The solution has been there ever since the older AE front end. You check the caster from side to side and shim the front end to make it even. Just grind a little off the inner mount (not the arm) and shim what ever side needs it.

Uneven caster is normally from not getting the camber links installed perfectly straight. It's not normally anything to do with the molds.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:46 AM   #1127
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The solution has been there ever since the older AE front end. You check the caster from side to side and shim the front end to make it even. Just grind a little off the inner mount (not the arm) and shim what ever side needs it.

Uneven caster is normally from not getting the camber links installed perfectly straight. It's not normally anything to do with the molds.
Normally.... Mine is way off! Way off!
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:39 AM   #1128
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Normally.... Mine is way off! Way off!
I won't argue the point that yours is off. All I am saying is that it's easily fixed and not worth blowing out of proportion.

Personally I think that the AE car is one of the more accurate cars out there. Plus, I've been able to run almost a full season without replacing parts. This is a major bonus compared to how we used to hack the old front end up.

Parts count on my car for this year is a couple sets of collapsed springs , a set of side springs, and a pair of worn out steering blocks. Compared to what used to break on the old cars this is nothing.
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:57 AM   #1129
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I don't think it is so much the parts were weaker, but peoples driving has improved to were parts breakage is not an issue as much.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:29 AM   #1130
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I won't argue the point that yours is off. All I am saying is that it's easily fixed and not worth blowing out of proportion.

Personally I think that the AE car is one of the more accurate cars out there. Plus, I've been able to run almost a full season without replacing parts. This is a major bonus compared to how we used to hack the old front end up.

Parts count on my car for this year is a couple sets of collapsed springs , a set of side springs, and a pair of worn out steering blocks. Compared to what used to break on the old cars this is nothing.
Sure easily fixxed... your method would yeild sbout 6 deg caster on my car. And thats NOT the amount I'd like to run. Closer to zero id perfer. Im just expressing my frustrations with what should be a wonderful car. You know how I am about that sort of stuff Fred. Okay , so I'm anal retentive. Hacking and shimming is not an option for me. It's either right or it takes flight! This is the twenty-frist century man. If I wanted a half ass car I would have gotten a Ford! LOL. But thats another story isnt it. Being able to build a kit and not having to re-engineer it before it's right... thats what I expect from every kit I buy. I guess thats why most of the cars I've gotted over the last few years are Tamiya cars. I've had atleast 15 12th scale cars over these last 30 years. Most of them were Associateds dating way back to a 12E.
Customer service is great there. Associated takes good care of their customers. More than I can say about MANY other companies. (no names)
No matter what the outcome is the fact is still an issue and I believe that QUALITY OVER QUANTITY is key. You can always polish a turd ... but once you are done its still a p.o.s.. Rather than hacking a turd , I'd perfer to have it right the first time so I dont have to fumble over it for hours trying to get it the way it should have been in the first place. So I'm an ass and speak my mind . So what. I honestly have to answer to ony God and the I.R.S.. I've had to deal with both of them in the past and even when they messed up it cost me big. Ive vented my frustrations on here many times and its just the way I do it. I never said I was pollitically correct and if i offended anyone in the process ,,, tough! Ok I'm sorry if anyone took that wrong but , geez !
I'm rebuilding 3 cars right now and its a shame that I have to piss a few people off to make a point . But whatever .. there are more people aware of this issue and I'm certain that more recers will be happier to know whats up.
I build QUALITY.... and I don't hack... on or off the track.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:48 AM   #1131
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To get less caster you simply shim the arm foreward.

I'm not going to argue the point much further with you on this one because you'll simply bring me to your level and beat me with experience.

Like you said, the parts can be off.

Like I said, it can be the assembly and is easily fixed.

We're beating a large dead animal at this point and it would just degrade further from here.
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:17 AM   #1132
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I'm not going to argue ...because you'll simply bring me to your level and beat me with experience.


Sorry it's at your expense John, but that's funny...

-Sean
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:43 AM   #1133
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To get less caster you simply shim the arm foreward.

I'm not going to argue the point much further with you on this one because you'll simply bring me to your level and beat me with experience.

Like you said, the parts can be off.

Like I said, it can be the assembly and is easily fixed.

We're beating a large dead animal at this point and it would just degrade further from here.
Who's arguing ? Im meerely stating the facts . If you don't want to hear them .. don't read them. I know how to adjust it .... But what aint right aint right! And thats my sister you are talking about !
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:16 PM   #1134
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If anyone has a solution to fix/replace a busted steering block on a 12r5 I would LOVE to know. I broke one This morning and need to replace it by Sunday if possible. I can't think of a LHS that carries 12r5 parts, but I can probably get any other manufacturer of knuckle. I tried several to replace it but I couldn't find one with the axle located low enough in the block to center the kingpin in the wheel.
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:46 PM   #1135
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If anyone has a solution to fix/replace a busted steering block on a 12r5 I would LOVE to know. I broke one This morning and need to replace it by Sunday if possible. I can't think of a LHS that carries 12r5 parts, but I can probably get any other manufacturer of knuckle. I tried several to replace it but I couldn't find one with the axle located low enough in the block to center the kingpin in the wheel.
How far off is it from fitting inside the wheel? Can you shim it enough to fit? May compress the springs but you could use a lighter weight spring to get by for one day. The king pin does not have to be centered, just clear enough not to rub. Heck, you could get by using a short piece of fuel tubing instead of springs if you had to. May have to use softer front tires and a little more traction compound, but it could work.
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:58 PM   #1136
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Can you use an older 12l4 style block, and modify it? shave some plastic off the bottom, and then shim the top of it to get the hieght right?
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:12 AM   #1137
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Default New setup needed

Hi everyone, i went threw many pages on this forum and have saved some great stuff. Thanks !

Been in the hobby for a long time but never tried pan car. I will be doing the switch over and will be promoting the 12R5 at the track. I attached a photo of the track. It s small but feasible. It is high traction carpet.

I will be installing the following in my 12R5:

- LRP Sphere 07 comp BL speed
- Trinity 17.5 BL motor
- TQ cell booster do beef up the voltage to receiver and servo
- SMC 4000 mah 1S Lipo
- JR servo for 1/12
- Protoform Speed 12 body
- Spektrum receiver


I need advice on the following:

- Recommended servo saver and what holes to use ?
- what tires to buy to start off with and compound and trued size ?
- I have Niftech traction liquid. Do I apply to all tires ?
- Other setups needed like ride height, springs, etc ... ?
- Most important would be rollout info in mm for 17.5 BL ?
- Spur gear size ? (was thinking maybe 78)
- pinion sizes ?
- I do I print a rollout chart for my setup

By what I understand in 1/12, the trick is to watch the rear tire size, motor temp (max 150 F) and adjust pinion for desired rollout for 17.5 BL motor.

Thanks in advance and look forward to your advice.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:02 AM   #1138
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track looks great for a 1cell lipo the dudes at my track told me i will need to run a 13.5to keep up with the 17.5 with nimh the 17.5 wont put out a enough volts to keep up call Don at Ae he would be able to tell you.tires see would the dudes at your track are running. sauce on all the rear and the inside half of the front
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:05 AM   #1139
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Hi,

@Andrew: The L4 blocks should fit fine. We used them at the Euros last year when we had no spares. We didn't even modify them. Just a small shim between the spring and e-ring.

@Canuck:
Servo saver: Medium Kimbrough saver and the middle holes.
Tires: You can use pretty much every tire. JACO, Parma, GRP, CRC,... Personally I use JACO's. Double Pink rears and Double Pink or Lilac fronts. Regarding tire size I normally start 46.5mm for the rears and 44.5mm for the fronts. If you run on a high traction track you may have to true them smaller. Tire additive depends on what you are allowed to use and what most of the guys run.
Spares: Get some front (0.20, 0.22) and side springs (I have all of them, nice to have); For the rear ride height adjustment I would get the IRS or Xenon ones; and get some steering blocks and side links. Only things I ever broke.
Rollout: Sorry, can't help you there. We use 9.5T in stock.


Cheers
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:27 AM   #1140
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Thanks for the info guys.

So 13.5 with LIPO 1S is equivalent to 17.5 with NIMH. Good heads up ! I need to get more info from other lipo users on this so we can put forward some kind of rules at the track.

Also look forward in receiving some gearing info and roll out.

Here's what I am thinking:

17.5 BL use 76T spur + 39T pinion to start off with 46.5mm tires. I get 75mm rollout
13.5 BL use 76T spur + 34T pinion to start off with 46.5mm tires. I get 65mm rollout

Check temp for around 150F on motor and adjust gearing.

Last edited by Canuck; 03-04-2009 at 08:39 AM.
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