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Old 02-19-2009, 09:19 AM   #1096
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Balance your chassis plate by itself without the pod on the back. This is done with balance buttons. You never want to include unsprung weight (pod) when balancing. After you balance the chassis plate put everything back togather and then set tweak on a board. Make sure that you initially set with freshly cut tires.

Build your FE per Fred's advice. Keep it slop free from the turnbucles to the kingpins. If you get this wrong your car will always have tweak.


Check your right front wheel. It looks like to me that it is cracked... that alone can cause all kinds of issues.

I have heard that success in 1/12 scale racing is the sum of small things executed to perfection tied into lots and lots of practice.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:33 AM   #1097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
the speedo is on the same side of the chassis as the servo. its out of balance. Same mistake i made.

HTH

DK
It isn't it's 50/50 or very very close w/ the motor in the car.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:37 AM   #1098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Otis View Post
Balance your chassis plate by itself without the pod on the back. This is done with balance buttons. You never want to include unsprung weight (pod) when balancing. After you balance the chassis plate put everything back togather and then set tweak on a board. Make sure that you initially set with freshly cut tires.

Build your FE per Fred's advice. Keep it slop free from the turnbucles to the kingpins. If you get this wrong your car will always have tweak.


Check your right front wheel. It looks like to me that it is cracked... that alone can cause all kinds of issues.

I have heard that success in 1/12 scale racing is the sum of small things executed to perfection tied into lots and lots of practice.
I've got 4 cracked wheels on there now , they werent cracked when i went out hahah. They cracked due to the hooking when i wasn't expecting it and me ending up in the wall.

I think i'm going to disassemble the whole car and start over inspecting each and every part.

I've been using an old trick w/ a nail embedded in mdf and everything ground flat and leveled to do balance. Where would i buy balance buttons from?
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:42 AM   #1099
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Your upper eyelets need to be flat on both sides. I can see the right hand side is tilted back a little which will compress the spring more than the other side causing a tweaked car.

Also you have to make sure your rear tires are fully glued. If they are not glued to the rim your car will spin out to that side.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:54 AM   #1100
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What everyone here suggests is right on the money! Especially what Jeremy said about unsprung weight. Never looked at it like that but great info. If I had some coins to rub together other than the ones I'm using to set the tweak on my car, I'd bet half of it that the caster being unequal from side to side is the issue. take your wheels off and look from the side at your kingpins. One of them looks straight up 90 or ZERO DEGREES CASTER. Thats ok but very agressive steering. The other, Like some one mentioned the camera angle. May be more like what you would want like 1.25 or so for a more forgiving drive. Even more if its spinning out. From the looks of those pics I would wager the car spins out to the left, and pushes like a truck to the right.
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:07 AM   #1101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
Where would i buy balance buttons from?
Here: http://www.teamirsrc.com/misc.html IRS3020
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Old 02-21-2009, 03:01 AM   #1102
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Default Balance buttons...

Don't waste your hard earned on fancy balance buttons. A couple of golf tee's turned upside down work just as well and are available for next to nothing...
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Old 02-21-2009, 05:56 AM   #1103
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
What everyone here suggests is right on the money! Especially what Jeremy said about unsprung weight. Never looked at it like that but great info. If I had some coins to rub together other than the ones I'm using to set the tweak on my car, I'd bet half of it that the caster being unequal from side to side is the issue. take your wheels off and look from the side at your kingpins. One of them looks straight up 90 or ZERO DEGREES CASTER. Thats ok but very agressive steering. The other, Like some one mentioned the camera angle. May be more like what you would want like 1.25 or so for a more forgiving drive. Even more if its spinning out. From the looks of those pics I would wager the car spins out to the left, and pushes like a truck to the right.
I'm going to the track today and i'll put it in my setup station to see for sure and report back. Thanks again!! You guys have been a great help!!
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:54 AM   #1104
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as far as the single lipo anyone ever thought of running just a single saddlepack lipo cell.. i just picked up one of these and i have a 3200 mah trakpower saddle
can i use these for single cell application?
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:14 AM   #1105
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Yes, you can use those for single cell applications.
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:26 PM   #1106
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Is anyone else noticing how close the servo saver ball cups are to their servo when running a 9650 using the std. mounts? When I have my 9650 mounted so the tie rods are parallel to each other, I have to grind about a third off the right servo saver ball cup to keep it from binding on the servo casing.

does anyone have a link to any of the 12r5's from Snowbirds or Cleveland?
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Old 02-22-2009, 07:08 PM   #1107
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I have noticed it with some of the other racers, but I am not having that problem.
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Old 02-22-2009, 07:56 PM   #1108
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no issues like that here either ...
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:01 PM   #1109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
no issues like that here either ...
I am using a Kimbrough small SS and have the studs mounted in the middle hole. They are near perfectly parallel when viewed from vertical and horizontal perspectives. In the pics above you can almost see what I am talking about in the pics from above the car.

What hole are y'all mounting the studs in, and what servo saver?
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:27 PM   #1110
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So i figured out why my car hooks . It was the diff. Not sure what the hell is wrong w/ the diff but it was the diff. I had another car i was building i swapped out the diffs and hook problem went away.
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