Associated RC12R5
02-17-2009, 01:40 PM
#1081
For the people having such a large difference in caster left to right; Please take few minutes and try to isolate where the problem is coming from, or which part is at fault, here is what I would do.
First, mark every part in the front end on ONE side, left, with a small piece of tape or something, then start swapping parts left to right and see if the problem moves to the other side of the car. start with the upper arms, pull the pins and just swap, then do the upper arm mounts, etc. etc. till you find the problem, you will NOT have to pop the pivot balls out and turn them around, just leave them upside down on the other side for now and you should still be able to see if the caster changed or not, it should take maybe 10 minutes of fiddling with the front end to figure out where the problem is, just 2 wrenches and a few minutes should isolate the problem. Just dry fitting the kingpin in the upper and lower arm, and steering block, no e-clips, spacers, or spring, should be good to see where the problem is.
My money is on an upper arm assembled crooked, or board hit crooked, or on one of the blue standoffs being off to the other one.
On the lower arms, it helps to deburr or de lip the flash on the end of the arm, the area that butts up against the standoff, before bolting down, just be carefull you don't create an angle or bevel there, cause the arm will not bolt down straight then, will point up or down slightly.
we have about 6 to 8 12r5 cars running in our area, have yet to see this problem, guess we are lucky....
First, mark every part in the front end on ONE side, left, with a small piece of tape or something, then start swapping parts left to right and see if the problem moves to the other side of the car. start with the upper arms, pull the pins and just swap, then do the upper arm mounts, etc. etc. till you find the problem, you will NOT have to pop the pivot balls out and turn them around, just leave them upside down on the other side for now and you should still be able to see if the caster changed or not, it should take maybe 10 minutes of fiddling with the front end to figure out where the problem is, just 2 wrenches and a few minutes should isolate the problem. Just dry fitting the kingpin in the upper and lower arm, and steering block, no e-clips, spacers, or spring, should be good to see where the problem is.
My money is on an upper arm assembled crooked, or board hit crooked, or on one of the blue standoffs being off to the other one.
On the lower arms, it helps to deburr or de lip the flash on the end of the arm, the area that butts up against the standoff, before bolting down, just be carefull you don't create an angle or bevel there, cause the arm will not bolt down straight then, will point up or down slightly.
we have about 6 to 8 12r5 cars running in our area, have yet to see this problem, guess we are lucky....
Last edited by Ffejdat; 02-17-2009 at 01:42 PM. Reason: spelling....
02-17-2009, 02:08 PM
#1082
I've recently gotten a 12r5 and i'm having trouble w/ the car hooking to one side and pushing to the other, i've check tweak, and wheel centering. I run brushless and try to balance the weight between the left and right electronics wise.
Any ideas on where to start looking (oh and i checked all my bearings and rebuilt the diff too).
Any ideas on where to start looking (oh and i checked all my bearings and rebuilt the diff too).
1. Make sure that the radio end-points are even left and right. Double check by turning circles on the floor and adjust as necessary until the car turns the same amount left and right.
2. If that doesn't help then verify that the rear links move freely. Be sure that the rear pod alignment is good and not causing any binding. It might be necessary to loosen the screws that hold the center pod pivot and re-adjust the linkage alignment. That step is not explained very well in the manual. It is best to do this with the pod plates removed so you are just dealing with the lower graphite plate. When you rock the plate side to side the action should be smooth and free, you shouldn't feel any binding or popping.
Reassemble the car re-check your tweek and see if this has helped.
What method are you using to set tweek?
02-17-2009, 09:01 PM
#1083
Tech Adept
I didn't throw my transmitter.... you are greatly mistaken. I put it on the table quite abruptly! I still use the same one. And as for the pot calling the kettle black.... Who yelled a profanity from the drivers stand. That was a blaitant violation of ROAR rules and no one said a thing! I have a God given right to express my opinion and these forums are here for just that reason. I answer to no one and for as much stuff as I have bought and had to send back. I've had to ship just about everything (or atleast one of) back to whomever and it all adds up. Seems to me that when I give an oppritunity to enlighten someone about something , it's all taken out of text and read between the lines . So I talk in conjecture and apparently there is a lack of reader intelect involved. I must have spent over $100 on shipping for motors , speedos, parts, odds and ends for warranty witch should have never been an issue in the first place . It's idocracy and lazieness. passing faulty "new" stuff to consumers just to make a few bucks and get product on the shelves. I'm not sponsored by FedEx man. So.... peanut butter was an example. Open your eyes man. All I was doing was making an accure observation and notifying everyone in a manner that which many have access to. So as far as everyone getting all defensive <shut up> !
Is Associated willing to replace everyones faulty parts? I wonder, maybe they will. So if thats the case I too would encourage everyone with one of these pan cars to persue non-faulty parts from customer service. Things like this are cause for extra effort.... extra carbon emmissions.. extra bull crap.. more typing .. more backlash. Is it all neccessary ? No.... ITS MANDITORY!
The squeaky wheel gets the grease! perhaps I should spell that out for you as well. Not you Jeremy....
Is Associated willing to replace everyones faulty parts? I wonder, maybe they will. So if thats the case I too would encourage everyone with one of these pan cars to persue non-faulty parts from customer service. Things like this are cause for extra effort.... extra carbon emmissions.. extra bull crap.. more typing .. more backlash. Is it all neccessary ? No.... ITS MANDITORY!
The squeaky wheel gets the grease! perhaps I should spell that out for you as well. Not you Jeremy....
02-18-2009, 12:36 AM
#1084
First start with the basics.
1. Make sure that the radio end-points are even left and right. Double check by turning circles on the floor and adjust as necessary until the car turns the same amount left and right.
2. If that doesn't help then verify that the rear links move freely. Be sure that the rear pod alignment is good and not causing any binding. It might be necessary to loosen the screws that hold the center pod pivot and re-adjust the linkage alignment. That step is not explained very well in the manual. It is best to do this with the pod plates removed so you are just dealing with the lower graphite plate. When you rock the plate side to side the action should be smooth and free, you shouldn't feel any binding or popping.
Reassemble the car re-check your tweek and see if this has helped.
What method are you using to set tweek?
1. Make sure that the radio end-points are even left and right. Double check by turning circles on the floor and adjust as necessary until the car turns the same amount left and right.
2. If that doesn't help then verify that the rear links move freely. Be sure that the rear pod alignment is good and not causing any binding. It might be necessary to loosen the screws that hold the center pod pivot and re-adjust the linkage alignment. That step is not explained very well in the manual. It is best to do this with the pod plates removed so you are just dealing with the lower graphite plate. When you rock the plate side to side the action should be smooth and free, you shouldn't feel any binding or popping.
Reassemble the car re-check your tweek and see if this has helped.
What method are you using to set tweek?
This is a good advise, and when your done with that I would recomend checking or replacing your front springs. I've noticed that the 0.20's from Asso collapse a bit fast when hitting a cerb, just a bit to hard... ;-)
I replace them frequently. Good luck!
Greetings,
Robert Krens
Team Associated Holland
02-18-2009, 08:43 AM
#1086
I've recently gotten a 12r5 and i'm having trouble w/ the car hooking to one side and pushing to the other, i've check tweak, and wheel centering. I run brushless and try to balance the weight between the left and right electronics wise.
Any ideas on where to start looking (oh and i checked all my bearings and rebuilt the diff too).
Any ideas on where to start looking (oh and i checked all my bearings and rebuilt the diff too).
02-18-2009, 10:50 AM
#1087
First start with the basics.
1. Make sure that the radio end-points are even left and right. Double check by turning circles on the floor and adjust as necessary until the car turns the same amount left and right.
2. If that doesn't help then verify that the rear links move freely. Be sure that the rear pod alignment is good and not causing any binding. It might be necessary to loosen the screws that hold the center pod pivot and re-adjust the linkage alignment. That step is not explained very well in the manual. It is best to do this with the pod plates removed so you are just dealing with the lower graphite plate. When you rock the plate side to side the action should be smooth and free, you shouldn't feel any binding or popping.
Reassemble the car re-check your tweek and see if this has helped.
What method are you using to set tweek?
1. Make sure that the radio end-points are even left and right. Double check by turning circles on the floor and adjust as necessary until the car turns the same amount left and right.
2. If that doesn't help then verify that the rear links move freely. Be sure that the rear pod alignment is good and not causing any binding. It might be necessary to loosen the screws that hold the center pod pivot and re-adjust the linkage alignment. That step is not explained very well in the manual. It is best to do this with the pod plates removed so you are just dealing with the lower graphite plate. When you rock the plate side to side the action should be smooth and free, you shouldn't feel any binding or popping.
Reassemble the car re-check your tweek and see if this has helped.
What method are you using to set tweek?
. I've done the endpoints, i've run the circles on the floor, i've checked rear pod links for movement and just in case length and damage, i've checked side springs for damage (just in case one is longer than the other), i've also checked that my motor wires aren't binding (too short or too long) so that the pod isn't binding up. I took the shock off and checked for free movement all around.
I'll have to double check the front springs.
I have also promised another poster that i'd take photos. I'll do that this evening by hook or by crook and post them
. Thanks again all for the quick replies and the info!!
02-18-2009, 12:23 PM
#1088
One more thing to check is that your rear axle is centered, if not that can cause this issue as well.
02-18-2009, 04:20 PM
#1089
ymebp,
one other thing to check, if you'/re running a Parma Speed8 body, look for interference from the upper pod plate on its right side where the side shock attaches. Mine hit the body right there. It only happened with the Parma Speed8. That can cause incosistent handling left and right, even if the car is teaked properly.
one other thing to check, if you'/re running a Parma Speed8 body, look for interference from the upper pod plate on its right side where the side shock attaches. Mine hit the body right there. It only happened with the Parma Speed8. That can cause incosistent handling left and right, even if the car is teaked properly.
02-18-2009, 07:03 PM
#1090
Yaaay i've got mail! ... yaaaaay i've got mail ... yaaay
http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/...ars/?g2_page=2
higher resolution images at the link above.
http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/...ars/?g2_page=2
higher resolution images at the link above.
02-18-2009, 07:54 PM
#1091
pic of my wireing
Yaaay i've got mail! ... yaaaaay i've got mail ... yaaay
http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/...ars/?g2_page=2
higher resolution images at the link above.
http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/...ars/?g2_page=2
higher resolution images at the link above.
Last edited by 2056dennis; 02-18-2009 at 08:19 PM.
02-18-2009, 08:07 PM
#1092
It's hard to tell from photos but it could be the caster problem. It looks like one side is straight up but that could just be the camera angle.
02-18-2009, 08:19 PM
#1093
You have a point, lemme see if i can get a better looksee. Took the wheels off and to the naked eye it looks like one side has more caster than the other. I have 1 number #4 washer under each screw in the front end blocks.
02-19-2009, 05:40 AM
#1095
Personally I would have the speedo on the left also. It does balance the chassis better there. It's probably only part of the problem though.
So, the first thing I would check is the axle heights. Double check that the camber is the same on both sides and pull the tires off. With the chassis flat on a set-up board measure the axle height on both sides with calipers or a sedan droop gage. The axles should be the same height within about .25mm and if they're not try loosening the screws on the lower arms and giving them a little jiggle before retightening. I've had the lowers get a little off after hitting a wall or from just getting assembled a little funny. If you can't get the axles correct try new screws in the lowers and you might need to replace them all together.
Second thing is to check the caster. Just use a camber gage at the front to measure how the kingpin leans back. Again, wheels off, chassis flat on the board and make shure that the upper pivot sets flat on the gage. I try to keep the caster within a half degree for both sides. Contrary to some of the agruments on here it's not that hard to reshim the upper arm to get them the same. If you need a little more room to move just dremel a little off the block to make room and add a shim. It's not a big deal.
Also, check the springs. A factory driver told me to set-up new springs like this. Compress the new springs some with your fingers (just enough to gently bottom them out). Put them on the car and shim them at the spring end to take out play or add one shim of preload if you're running 18's. Run the car once or twice and recheck the springs for proper shims (no preload for 20's and one shim for 18's). If one of the springs collapses from where you set them (crash) you'll need to start this process over again.
So, the first thing I would check is the axle heights. Double check that the camber is the same on both sides and pull the tires off. With the chassis flat on a set-up board measure the axle height on both sides with calipers or a sedan droop gage. The axles should be the same height within about .25mm and if they're not try loosening the screws on the lower arms and giving them a little jiggle before retightening. I've had the lowers get a little off after hitting a wall or from just getting assembled a little funny. If you can't get the axles correct try new screws in the lowers and you might need to replace them all together.
Second thing is to check the caster. Just use a camber gage at the front to measure how the kingpin leans back. Again, wheels off, chassis flat on the board and make shure that the upper pivot sets flat on the gage. I try to keep the caster within a half degree for both sides. Contrary to some of the agruments on here it's not that hard to reshim the upper arm to get them the same. If you need a little more room to move just dremel a little off the block to make room and add a shim. It's not a big deal.
Also, check the springs. A factory driver told me to set-up new springs like this. Compress the new springs some with your fingers (just enough to gently bottom them out). Put them on the car and shim them at the spring end to take out play or add one shim of preload if you're running 18's. Run the car once or twice and recheck the springs for proper shims (no preload for 20's and one shim for 18's). If one of the springs collapses from where you set them (crash) you'll need to start this process over again.