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Old 01-08-2009, 07:25 PM   #946
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You should always check the castor on both sides as injected molded parts do not come out exactly the same every time. Yea, they are usually really close, but a little here and a little there can addup. Once molded the parts have to cool and during the process they can shrink or twist slightly. Not enough for someone packaging them to see, but possibly enough to make the two sides different. This is true with any manufacturer, not just Associated.

Last edited by SteveL; 01-08-2009 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:54 PM   #947
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The Other two issues with the caster being different left to right are, 1- the upper arms not being the same- not threaded in straight like someone mentioned above, take the time to assemble then straight, or see if they bent or shifted from a big board hit, and 2- when you tighten the caster blocks down to the aluminum standoff, if you overtighten that part it can warp or twist and give different caster let to right. Don't overtighten those, and visually look to ssee if they look the same from the top of the car left to right.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:57 PM   #948
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One other item to check is make sure the lower arms are tight to the mounts, personally I feel the new front end builds up much straighter and more consistent than the older front end ever did, seems much more durable also, plus all symmetrical parts except steering knuckles, better all around to me...
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:15 PM   #949
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The biggest factor in caster problems is definately the turnbuckle not being put in straight. It is very easy to get the turnbuckle in crooked and it doesn't take much to get the caster angle different on each wheel. I personally don't have a problem if the shims on the upper arm are different from side to side as long as I get the right caster angle on each wheel.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:31 PM   #950
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Does anyone know if the distance between the pivot balls holes on the rc12r5 t-plate are same length as regular t-plate pivot ball holes on like a standard 12l4 t-plate? I want to put a r5 tplate and rear pod on my l4 to get it balanced correctly for brushless.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:33 PM   #951
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Anyone know of a smokin deal on a 12r5? Looking for a roller ran on carpet only.

thanks
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:17 PM   #952
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Does anyone know if the distance between the pivot balls holes on the rc12r5 t-plate are same length as regular t-plate pivot ball holes on like a standard 12l4 t-plate? I want to put a r5 tplate and rear pod on my l4 to get it balanced correctly for brushless.
You wouldn't gain anything by doing this. The t-bar pod for the R5 was still designed for brushed, the changes didn't come for brushless until we made the 10R5. As others have mentioned the difference between the two pods is minor, the brush-less pod just makes balancing the car a little easier. I haven't felt any big change in the way the car drives. It's kind of a mental help "knowing" that the car is perfect.
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:04 PM   #953
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Hi all,

I'm new to 12th scale and new to the 12R5 and am looking for a sanity check! Can anyone who is running 17.5 Brushless in their 12R5 let me know what weight you end up at?

I just installed an Orion Vortex 17.5 + Novak GTB 4-Cell + KO 949 servo + Futaba FAAST receiver and ended up at just over 900g with body

I believe ROAR's revised weight limit is 795g which puts me WAY over. Does this sound right to everyone? Any ideas on how to pare some weight off?

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:07 PM   #954
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It's all but impossible to get a brushless 1/12 down to 795 with 4 cells. With 4600's I'm at 848, with 3800's the same car is 828. At 360 Speedway, most of the 4 cell brushless 1/12s fall between 865 and the low 900's
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:29 AM   #955
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Quote:
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It's all but impossible to get a brushless 1/12 down to 795 with 4 cells. With 4600's I'm at 848, with 3800's the same car is 828. At 360 Speedway, most of the 4 cell brushless 1/12s fall between 865 and the low 900's
Im running the 5300's and I'm sure my car is way over 900....
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:30 AM   #956
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thanks for the tips about the pod. I checked mine out and sure enough, it would bind at the ends. What about up/down slop in the center pivot? I can pull up on the rear body posts and lift the springs off the balls. Its an older crc car.

Thanks
DK
U put springs on your balls ?
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:42 AM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
thanks for the tips about the pod. I checked mine out and sure enough, it would bind at the ends. What about up/down slop in the center pivot? I can pull up on the rear body posts and lift the springs off the balls. Its an older crc car.

Thanks
DK
That sounds wrong. If the center ball screw is snug in the pod plate, then the ball is loose in the "football" If the screws that hold the "football together are snug, then either the ball or the plastic "football" is worn out. I'd replace both the ball and the football together if one is worn out. There should be no slop in the center ball and football, and no binding.
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:35 AM   #958
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I'm at 898g with 4600's, 9650 servo, SR3100 Rx, 4-cell GTB & Duo 17.5 and Jaco Prisms cut down pretty darn small. The only other thing I plan to try is the Tekin RS ESC. That should save a fair amount of weight.
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:43 AM   #959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimNJ View Post
I'm at 898g with 4600's, 9650 servo, SR3100 Rx, 4-cell GTB & Duo 17.5 and Jaco Prisms cut down pretty darn small. The only other thing I plan to try is the Tekin RS ESC. That should save a fair amount of weight.
I'm using the Tekin RS, Tekin 13.5, Spektrum Micro Rx, Futaba 9650, AMB Transponder and Parma Speed 8 HD .030" and I weigh in at 910g with 4600s. I think I used too much paint!
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:56 AM   #960
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4600's, LRP Comp Sphere, Futaba 9650, Spektrum Micro RX, Trinity Duo 13.5, Protoform Speed12 and all aluminum and titanium screws. Oh and smaller tires. 865 grams.
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