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Old 12-07-2008, 11:04 AM   #811
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I've finally made the decision that I'm going to go Brushless and I have a quick question.

Is it absolutely necessary to go with the re-balanced pod on the 12R5?

Will the cars handling be all out of whack if I try to run a brushless motor in the stock rear pod?

Thanks in advance!

Mike
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Old 12-07-2008, 12:14 PM   #812
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Well.... I for one am waiting for the centered brushless parts.
But , why not try it and do an a-b comparrison and let us know.
I don't have any more brushed motors to try it.
But I would imaging a slight advantage to centering up the motor.
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Old 12-07-2008, 12:22 PM   #813
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Hi i run a 10.5 brushless in the standard pod and cant say I have noticed any problems, still tracks true and straight. Did my best to balance the parts out on the chassis to try and even tyre weights up and it seems to work well.
Might try the brushless pod one day when I see one at the local shop but happy with it so far.

Need to sort out my lack of rear end after 6 minutes before changing anything else!
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Old 12-07-2008, 12:35 PM   #814
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Hi guys,

regarding the new pod I have to say there is a difference but it doesn't make the car faster, just more consistent. I tried it back to back and for me the car feels "straighter" with the new pod. But lots of the R5 drivers here drive the normal pod as long as it is not available and have great success with it.

Cheers
Chris
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Old 12-07-2008, 01:47 PM   #815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
Is it absolutely necessary to go with the re-balanced pod on the 12R5?

Will the cars handling be all out of whack if I try to run a brushless motor in the stock rear pod?
I've run both and really didn't see any noticable difference. After spending the $50+ on the brushless pod and running it, I thought to myself.....hmmmm It doesn't make that much difference.

One thing it did do is balance the car out....on IRS balance buttons, the car is balanced.
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:43 PM   #816
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Can anyone suggest a good servo i struck out with the mini's. Not wide enough
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:14 PM   #817
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I have the Futaba 9650 in my car it seems to fit ok in my car.
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:21 PM   #818
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I have the Futaba 9650 in my car it seems to fit ok in my car.
did you cut the two side mounts off? the non traditional mounts?
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:56 PM   #819
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Originally Posted by fire929 View Post
did you cut the two side mounts off? the non traditional mounts?
Yeah the ones on the top and the bottom? After that if fit perfect. Its a great servo picked it up at my LHS for around $50.00
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Old 12-07-2008, 09:04 PM   #820
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I thought I'd share an idea.

Although its not really too big of a deal, I don't like having to get a 3mm and 2 mm wrench out when I want to remove my center shock to remove or install my batteries. So I devised a way to make the attachment tool-less.

Materials:
(1) 8 mm x 2 mm FH metric screw
(1) 2 mm knurled metric thumb nut

The yellow in the picture represents the thumbscrew. The magenta represents the FH screw. Rough up the bottom of the shoulder of the ball in the shock end. Insert the FH screw all the way into the ball and tighten them against each other. (I used a FH screw to allow the shock some articulation) Then use the thumb nut to secure the shock on the other side. The rough surface of the ball against the CF mount allows you to tighten the thumbscrew without having to use a wrench.
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Old 12-07-2008, 09:30 PM   #821
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The 9650 fits better in the 10R5. I found that the KO 949 is a much better fit for the car and is super smooth.
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:55 PM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I thought I'd share an idea.

Although its not really too big of a deal, I don't like having to get a 3mm and 2 mm wrench out when I want to remove my center shock to remove or install my batteries. So I devised a way to make the attachment tool-less.

Materials:
(1) 8 mm x 2 mm FH metric screw
(1) 2 mm knurled metric thumb nut

The yellow in the picture represents the thumbscrew. The magenta represents the FH screw. Rough up the bottom of the shoulder of the ball in the shock end. Insert the FH screw all the way into the ball and tighten them against each other. (I used a FH screw to allow the shock some articulation) Then use the thumb nut to secure the shock on the other side. The rough surface of the ball against the CF mount allows you to tighten the thumbscrew without having to use a wrench.

My battery always just slid right under the shock without taking it off.
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Old 12-07-2008, 11:10 PM   #823
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That's pretty much what I was thinking I'd do! I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some known, radical issue with running brushless with the original pod and it doesn't sound like there is so I will start with that and see where it leads

Cheers,
Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Well.... I for one am waiting for the centered brushless parts.
But , why not try it and do an a-b comparrison and let us know.
I don't have any more brushed motors to try it.
But I would imaging a slight advantage to centering up the motor.
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:09 PM   #824
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I am looking for a brushless hub ASC 4608 does anyone know where one is available?

Thanks!
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:42 PM   #825
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I recently bought one of these cars and was wondering what options you have as far as holding the battery pack down besides tape
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