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Old 09-29-2008, 09:40 AM   #601
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So I was able to drive the R5 pretty damn decent this time. Decent enough that one guy yelled Sandbagger as I was in the sportsman class. From there they moved me up to Expert (even though I am a very very very very SLOW expert) I placed 3rd, but in all honesty in this main, there was 1 true expert driver, and the rest around my skill. Usually Expert class has more true experts. Our track almost needs a class between expert and sportsman, but unfortunately that does not exist. Even so, its good for me as now I can better my driving by trying to follow the experts.

This is on asphalt with the top flaking off:
Front tires: Jaco Prism Lilacs
Front Springs: .20
Front Ride height: 4.5mm
Front Tire sauce: none

Dampner oils: 20wt AE oil
Center shock spring: green

Side springs: black with 1 turn of preload

Rear tires: Jaco Prism Magentas
Rear ride height: 5.5mm
Pod droop: 1mm
Ride height between pod and chassis: ~5.2mm
Rear tires sauce: Trinity Tire Tweak

I do believe the car pushed, but right now that is more desirable as I learn. One can always make it oversteer by careful throttle control.
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:33 AM   #602
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Oh ya, quick question as well. Right now I just check tweak using the quarter method, BUT, when a car spins right or left on throttle, which is the correct way to loosen or tighten the side springs?
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:51 AM   #603
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If the car spins to the left tighten the left spring. Spins to the right, tighten the right.

IF you're using the quarter method for tweaking everything on the front end needs to be perfect for it to work properly. If the down travel, spring lengths or tire sizes are different the car won't tweak properly with the coin method.

If the car is showing that it's tweaked fine with coins but it's acting tweaked on the track check the front springs and axle heights. A caveman way of checking the front springs is to check the tweak from the rear (just look for what rear tire lifts first). Tweaking using the rear of a car isnt' always very reliable though.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:08 AM   #604
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Thanks. Ill look into a tweak station for the pan car. I have the Hudy tweak station, I will see if that works well enough.
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Old 10-01-2008, 04:40 AM   #605
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guys, can i use hitec HS-225BB or HS-225MG in my R5???
actually what is the size of servo for 1:12 scale??? Mini or Micro servo?
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Old 10-01-2008, 05:14 PM   #606
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If I were you I would stay away as far as possible from servo's from Hitec... There are too much problems known with these servo's. Better you should choose a Futaba S9602/S9650 or a KoPropo servo.

Try google for the sizes of these servo's and you will know how small they are...

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Old 10-03-2008, 04:25 AM   #607
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Hi there,

I'm into the last stages of building the kit and encountered difficulty in

building the differential. The differential plate can't fit onto the right wheel

hub. Both diff plates have an inner D-shaped ring cut out but not on the

right wheel hub. Have I gotten a defective wheel hub?

Anyone experience this?

Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2008, 11:38 AM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel View Post
Hi there,

I'm into the last stages of building the kit and encountered difficulty in

building the differential. The differential plate can't fit onto the right wheel

hub. Both diff plates have an inner D-shaped ring cut out but not on the

right wheel hub. Have I gotten a defective wheel hub?

Anyone experience this?

Thanks.

There should be a flat spot on the hub for the diff ring to lock into.
If it is not there then yes it sounds like you got a bad hub.
This is the first I have heard of that problem.
Contact AE cutomer service and they should be able to get you a new one.
Email Don- dnatale@eteam.net he will help you with the part.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:58 PM   #609
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I seem to be having a small problem with my R5. The center shocks does not seem to stay screwed into the carbon fiber mount that comes up from the chassis. I used some thread lock, and it made it better, but it still pops out at will.

The other thing on my mind is what do you guys use to strap the batteries down? I've never raced 1/12th but I wanna get my R5 going and it would be nice if I could know where to order some of this tape. Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2008, 07:50 PM   #610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creature View Post
I seem to be having a small problem with my R5. The center shocks does not seem to stay screwed into the carbon fiber mount that comes up from the chassis. I used some thread lock, and it made it better, but it still pops out at will.

The other thing on my mind is what do you guys use to strap the batteries down? I've never raced 1/12th but I wanna get my R5 going and it would be nice if I could know where to order some of this tape. Thanks.

For the tape:: http://integy.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/s...=4722&p_catid=

Is the screw used long enough and has no slop when threaded into the pivot ball?
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Old 10-03-2008, 08:27 PM   #611
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Thanks and I'll go double check.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:14 AM   #612
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As I hate tape to keep the battery packs in place, I'd like to use a different system. Anyone know an alternative system using velcro or something else?
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:05 AM   #613
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Embrace the tape embrace the tape Lol...






Quote:
Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
As I hate tape to keep the battery packs in place, I'd like to use a different system. Anyone know an alternative system using velcro or something else?
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Old 10-05-2008, 03:44 PM   #614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
As I hate tape to keep the battery packs in place, I'd like to use a different system. Anyone know an alternative system using velcro or something else?
Hey podloodje... Joost K. hier (Furious Jay op MBF)

There is no alternative known on the R5 other than using tape... So be it, the cells are kept in place real secure...

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Old 10-05-2008, 09:39 PM   #615
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hii...
i have problem with my R5.
when i tightened the wheel lock nut (as the manual told me), the wheel became stuck...i should loosened the wheel lock nut to get the wheel spin freely.

any tips????
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