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Old 09-18-2008, 12:58 PM   #556
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Can someone explain how they measure to center the axle when shimming. I tried to measure from the center point (Lower plate balancing hole) to the outer edge of each hub....not accurate measurement at all - all kinds of errors in that method.

I've contact Niftech and waiting for a reply - I'l thinking that #3000 tool might be helpful for this purpose.

Until I get that thing - what would be the best method or if someone already knows how many shims to put on what side running Jaco Prismz - it would be much appreciated.
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Old 09-18-2008, 01:24 PM   #557
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Running Prizms, I usually use 1-3 small shims on the left side of the pod. Right now with my Magenta's, they clear the pod with 0 shims.
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:01 PM   #558
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Sean, that sounds about right. I would think AE would make that unnecessary, do you think that is a weight distribution decision? As it stands with my 10.5 Novak brushless motor, the pod is NOT balanced. No biggie as the pod shouldn't roll anyway from my VERY limited understanding of 12th scale tuning.

Any tips for taping the batteries in? Or just remove the front of the side links temporarily?
Regarding the rear pod and brushless...
When the car was designed brushed motors were still the thing in stock and 19t. We designed a new pod for the 10R5 that is balanced for BL. Part #8511 and 8512, they are just the graphite upper and lower plates, they will bolt right onto the 12R5. It doesn't make a big deal in the handling but if some one wants a perfectly balanced rear pod this should do it. On a side note you will have to adjust the axle shims again to center the rear tires on the pod as the motor plate location has changed. Now instead of adding shims to the diff side they will need to added to the clamp hub side.

Also for battery tape I just cut a length of tape thread it up between the link and the chassis and cut off any excess. I use the width of the rear axle and tires to give me a rough guideline for the length of the tape.
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:05 PM   #559
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Can someone explain how they measure to center the axle when shimming. I tried to measure from the center point (Lower plate balancing hole) to the outer edge of each hub....not accurate measurement at all - all kinds of errors in that method.

I've contact Niftech and waiting for a reply - I'l thinking that #3000 tool might be helpful for this purpose.

Until I get that thing - what would be the best method or if someone already knows how many shims to put on what side running Jaco Prismz - it would be much appreciated.
It is much easier to measure with the tires installed. You can just use a steel ruler or calipers to measure from the edge of the tire to the center hole in the lower pod plate. The distance to each wheel doesn't have to be perfect as long as it is with in a shim thickness or so you will never feel the difference. Some people such as myself have disorders that require every thing to be just so, rear axle width is one of those items with me.
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:15 PM   #560
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I use the width of the rear axle and tires to give me a rough guideline for the length of the tape.
I use the length of the car for the length of tape needed. I will have to try your way...
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:36 PM   #561
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I use the length of the car for the length of tape needed. I will have to try your way...
The rear axle width is really close, I usually add a little for insurance.
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:37 PM   #562
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Sean, wouldn't using the RC10R5 pod plates require a different diff hub? Otherwise you push the diff further out when moving the motor plate to the right as the RC10R5 pod plate does, right? Then you alter the rear width. I do not wish to use a wider rear width as I need as much rear traction as possible.
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Old 09-18-2008, 03:01 PM   #563
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Yes, but it would be nice to use the same # of shims on each side, instead of +.060 inches on the diff side. I understand that there are different offset tires, and different widths that people want to use.
With all of the new interest in 1/12th, there are probably a lot of racers new to this class. With that being said, don't worry about things like equal shims on both sides of the car. I own or have built every 1/12th scale kit in existence and even built my own and I have never seen a 1/12th car that had equal shims on both sides. And yes, I own a 12R5. You only need to remember two things.

1. Just make sure that the chassis center line is centered in the rear track. You can do this by standing the car on its side and measuring from the outer edge of the wheel to the outside edge of the chassis. Not the outside edge of the lower pod plate but the outside edge of the chassis. Place a straight edge across the wheel and then measure from the straight edge to the edge of the chassis. Make sure that they match on both sides. Just add shims on what ever side to reach the desired track. Keep in mind that different wheel manufactures have different off set on their wheels.
2. Track width will change the handling of the car. Narrow track will create more rear grip. Wide track will create less rear grip. Maximum rear track is 172mm. Use your rear track width as a tuning aid.

Itís that simple.
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:10 PM   #564
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1. Just make sure that the chassis center line is centered in the rear track. You can do this by standing the car on its side and measuring from the outer edge of the wheel to the outside edge of the chassis. Not the outside edge of the lower pod plate but the outside edge of the chassis. Place a straight edge across the wheel and then measure from the straight edge to the edge of the chassis. Make sure that they match on both sides. Just add shims on what ever side to reach the desired track. Keep in mind that different wheel manufactures have different off set on their wheels.
That is bloody brilliant mate!
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:09 PM   #565
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That is bloody brilliant mate!
That is the cheapest way to center the rear wheels or you can order one of these for $24.95 which is what I use as I can't balance the straight edge and then measure. This handy little tool does it all for you.

http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=3000
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:12 PM   #566
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That is the cheapest way to center the rear wheels or you can order one of these for $24.95 which is what I use as I can't balance the straight edge and then measure. This handy little tool does it all for you.

http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=3000
Yep... I have that. That is my one and only set-up tool for 1/12th I own. It is well worth the money.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:32 PM   #567
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Sean, wouldn't using the RC10R5 pod plates require a different diff hub? Otherwise you push the diff further out when moving the motor plate to the right as the RC10R5 pod plate does, right? Then you alter the rear width. I do not wish to use a wider rear width as I need as much rear traction as possible.
I think what Sean was saying was that the only difference was between the 2 Carbon Fiber upper and lower plate. The aluminum pod plates are the same.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:50 PM   #568
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I understand that the pod plates are the same. My concern was getting the least track width if I used the RC10R5 top and bottom plates. I would actually like to use the RC10R5 plates if it balances my pod with a BL motor.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:41 PM   #569
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I understand that the pod plates are the same. My concern was getting the least track width if I used the RC10R5 top and bottom plates. I would actually like to use the RC10R5 plates if it balances my pod with a BL motor.
You are correct it will make the back of the car a little wider. I think the motor plate moved 3mm. Using the hub that comes with the car the rear axle will just stay under the legal max. width. We are in the process of making a narrow diff hub for the 12R5 that will even out the shims and allow a narrow axle width when using the 10R5 graphite parts. Keep an eye on the AE website for release info, it should be out soon.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:49 PM   #570
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Glad to hear!
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