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Old 08-04-2008, 06:12 PM   #436
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Not anytime soon. There has been some testing done by a few people just to get a handle on what might be in the future and how to get it to work. However there is no 4 cell NiMH equivalent in LiPo because the voltages are too different.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:56 AM   #437
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Thats exactly what i was thinking. I mean you cant have 1 1/2 lipo cells at least i think you cant. but i have made up my mind to get into this class now because to me the touring class with the lipos and brushless is getting to fast to have fun anymore i liked runnning stock with gp3300's.
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:08 AM   #438
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Beta Bob sent you a PM...
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:41 PM   #439
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Well, I just ordered one of these, and this will be my first 12th scale car. Im UBER stoked! I was hoping to get the Serpent S120...but not at $325. Ill be running this on outdoor asphalt on a medium grip track. Should be quite a blast.
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:43 PM   #440
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Right on, you are now in the right forum

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Well, I just ordered one of these, and this will be my first 12th scale car. Im UBER stoked! I was hoping to get the Serpent S120...but not at $325. Ill be running this on outdoor asphalt on a medium grip track. Should be quite a blast.
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:45 PM   #441
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Quote:
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Right on, you are now in the right forum
Hehe, thanks bud!
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Old 08-07-2008, 05:19 AM   #442
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Hi guys, with regards to axle spacing, I have always spaced the axle so that the rear wheels are qually apart from the centre line of the chassis. You do have to be careful with differant brands of wheels though because the off sets are differant. What I did was use CRC wheels (no off set) to get the maximum width sorted, then use carbon wheel spacers from fibre lyte (www.fibre-lyte.co.uk) to make wheels from GRP (that are off set) also spaced out to the maximum width but without the hassle of changing axle spacers. I have made a mark on my setup board that shows where the out side edge of the hubs needs to be but I can't remember how far out from the centre line of the chassis that is off the top of my head. I'll get a look after work and let you know. (I use a clamping hub from CRC and the other is a IRS unit). The good thing about making the mark on the board is that is you break a hub at a meeting and can only get another from a differant brand, you know only to space it out to the mark and you are sure to get the maximum width, regardless which hub you use. Hope that makes sense! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:57 PM   #443
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A question for those of you running the 12R5 with a Futaba 9650 servo. It appears that the center of the servo horn is off center by 1 mm or so(right side) thus creating unequal turnbuckle lengths. Any thoughts of how to correct this without just gluing the servo in? And yes the servo is pushed all the way over so the screw heads are up against the servo case.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:02 PM   #444
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A question for those of you running the 12R5 with a Futaba 9650 servo. It appears that the center of the servo horn is off center by 1 mm or so(right side) thus creating unequal turnbuckle lengths. Any thoughts of how to correct this without just gluing the servo in? And yes the servo is pushed all the way over so the screw heads are up against the servo case.
or KO 951 servo !
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:45 PM   #445
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Hi guys, the outside edge of the hubs are 48mm from the centre line of the chassis. This will mean any brand of wheel/tyre will be within the 172mm maximum width. Hope that helps, Cheers.
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:00 PM   #446
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Quote:
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A question for those of you running the 12R5 with a Futaba 9650 servo. It appears that the center of the servo horn is off center by 1 mm or so(right side) thus creating unequal turnbuckle lengths. Any thoughts of how to correct this without just gluing the servo in? And yes the servo is pushed all the way over so the screw heads are up against the servo case.
Anybody?
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:06 PM   #447
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Quote:
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Anybody?
For years, many people would slot one or sometimes both holes and then carefully create new countersink area. This work was usually done with a dremel and a steady hand. Dremel has a few tips that are almost perfect for the countersink taper. It doesn't have to be perfect as this is not really a high stress area, and it would not create any mis-alignment like lets say incorrectly drilled bulkhead holes on a sedan. If I find a chassis lying around I will post a picture. Xray used to do this on their sedan on one of the holes for the servo to accomodate all the different width servos.

Steve
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:20 PM   #448
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I am pretty sure I can get away with doing one hole like that. I have a counter sink bit for my drill that I can use. I also thought about squaring off the edge of the screw that holds the mounts to the servo. This gives me another 0.5mm -ish and then I can pick up the other 0.5 mm milling down the mount and/or servo case.

thanks again for the tip.
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Old 08-12-2008, 08:16 PM   #449
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What size pinions and spurs fit for running 10.5? Also, are there any things I need like shim sets to get going? This is my first 12th scale...been running TC for awhile.
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:29 PM   #450
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what is a good starting point for carpet racing with this car, also where is a place to get ride height adjustments shims from?
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