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Old 07-15-2012, 06:47 AM   #3706
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I just picked up a used 5.1, im going to be running it in stock on carpet. 1/12 scale is still alive in our area. Other than rear bearings, what are Some necessary spares that i should carry.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:28 AM   #3707
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I just picked up a used 5.1, im going to be running it in stock on carpet. 1/12 scale is still alive in our area. Other than rear bearings, what are Some necessary spares that i should carry.
Bearings for the diff thrust, front axle, lower front arm. Those are parts That I have managened to break, bend or wear out.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:28 AM   #3708
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I just picked up a used 5.1, im going to be running it in stock on carpet. 1/12 scale is still alive in our area. Other than rear bearings, what are Some necessary spares that i should carry.
Front wheel bearings, front axles, body posts, spur gears, and spares of the front end plastics.

In the odd wreck, Ive seen guys break the rear axle... but that is typically not a problem in Stock 12th. And Ive seen a shunt bend the lateral shock shaft. But those types of wrecks are typically hard enough that you might be going home anyway with a tweaked chassis, etc.

Regardless, the above listed pieces should keep you in business on a typical race day. Of course, you want to have extra tires with you too. Chunking tires and cracking rims is often the most common issue in 12th....
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:04 AM   #3709
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get a set of front turnbuckles too. they expensive but one night, i broke both an axle and one of those $8 Turnbuckles lol.
front axle shims so you can play with adjustment, but you always seem to lose them too. 1/8th eclips in case you lose them in a crash.
some of the ride height shims for the front and crc ride height adjusters for the rear.

some crc parts will interchange, but unless you have a lot of people running Xi in your group, you might be out of luck for stuff like front axles, bearings ect.
a set of associated front axle bearings will got a long way unless you hit stuff every corner.
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:30 AM   #3710
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new rear end on the 2012 Worlds car

damper tubes & no cross damper

picture by Adrian Jefferies from the UK Team

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Old 07-24-2012, 06:16 PM   #3711
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ok I have a question.
im getting my car this week and going to run a 17.5 and out track is about a 60 foot straight away and pretty flowing at times.
what would be a good starting point for gearing ?
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:43 PM   #3712
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Boosted or not?
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:42 AM   #3713
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Originally Posted by CFR View Post
new rear end on the 2012 Worlds car

damper tubes & no cross damper

picture by Adrian Jefferies from the UK Team


That is correct. Also new front suspension under arms. The blue insert is gone. Arm looks the same, but just with a countersunk screw in it. More like the On-Point.

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Old 07-25-2012, 09:35 AM   #3714
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That is correct. Also new front suspension under arms. The blue insert is gone. Arm looks the same, but just with a countersunk screw in it. More like the On-Point.

Regards Robert
What about the pod? Anything moved sideways, or just a fancy new rear brace?. Got an 5.1 with inline and Speedmerchant damper tubes, only thing i miss is to move the battery to left for better weight-balance.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:44 AM   #3715
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What about the pod? Anything moved sideways, or just a fancy new rear brace?. Got an 5.1 with inline and Speedmerchant damper tubes, only thing i miss is to move the battery to left for better weight-balance.
In addition to the changes up front, I believe it's a just a carbon brace, all for improved durability

Stellflue has been testing that chassis at TQ for a while now

The proto WGT he's been working on is pretty slick too
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:56 AM   #3716
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As far as you know, are there any subtle (important) changes to the wheelbase or front track width? Or is it the same two bottom plates as the current lipo car?
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:32 AM   #3717
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As far as you know, are there any subtle (important) changes to the wheelbase or front track width? Or is it the same two bottom plates as the current lipo car?
Someone from AE will have to weigh in on that

Haven't taken any measurements
And Bob doesn't like to give specifics when asked, at least until it is in production
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:31 AM   #3718
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for you guys this must be an easy question:

As far as I know the R5.1 is discontinued, the car is not listed on the Associated homepage. Will they bring out a new car? Seeing them at a worlds now does that mean they will still support 12 scale?

Having a look at the worlds pictures I saw many guys using steel balls in the diff (at least thats what it looks like, silver shiny balls) is there any advantage in steel balls? I thought ceramics are the way to go?
In the R5 manual there are put 8 balls in the diff. How many would you recommand for modified? Do you even use both rows (inner and outer ring to put balls in or just the inner or outer ring?)
Sorry for the stupid question I m new to 12 scale
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:06 AM   #3719
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for you guys this must be an easy question:

As far as I know the R5.1 is discontinued, the car is not listed on the Associated homepage. Will they bring out a new car? Seeing them at a worlds now does that mean they will still support 12 scale?

Having a look at the worlds pictures I saw many guys using steel balls in the diff (at least thats what it looks like, silver shiny balls) is there any advantage in steel balls? I thought ceramics are the way to go?
In the R5 manual there are put 8 balls in the diff. How many would you recommand for modified? Do you even use both rows (inner and outer ring to put balls in or just the inner or outer ring?)
Sorry for the stupid question I m new to 12 scale
The R5.1 is still available, Obviously the 5.2 from the worlds will replace it at some point, soon perhaps ?

I prefer ceramic diff balls, they last a long time, and work flawlessly
There are those that prefer steel, both get the job done

Place as many diff balls as there are holes for on the outer row of holes in the spur gear

Check the 12th info center link in my sig for tons more info about 12th scale
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:51 AM   #3720
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Steel balls are a lot cheaper (maybe 10x). You can get 100pcs for about 10 bucks an don't have too worry, when you lose an expensive ceramic ball during rebuild.
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