Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Arn0

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Could you post a few pics of your car ?
Most of the time when a 12th scale car doesn't go where you point it, it is due to a bound up pod, that doesn't articulate smoothly, the wrong tires/sauce technique, or diff issues.
This is not unique to the R5, it is true with all pan cars.

Springs and oil will fine tune a setup, as will balancing electronics on the chassis.

A proper diff should always be locked, smooth and free, providing there is a decent amount of grip available.

When everything is right, it's on rails.

Check out the 12th scale Info thread for heaps of tuning info and build tips HERE

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

Love that track from the IIC in Vagas! I wish our track at Norcal could be just as simple and clean with no shreds of green turf as a infield. After the race yesturday I was cleaning my 12r5.1 and 1/2 prototype. (Call it a prototype because I have mad my own tube conversion and top plate). Anyways have been having trouble with some handling issues. While cleaning I had noticed somthing RedBull was just talking about with free pod movement. I had some binding of the motor wires pinching between the motor and the new lateral side spring brace I constructed. That explains alot from me playing around with differant color center springs thinking it was that also how squirly the car was at certain times. I fixed the problem and when I get my digital camera back from my friend I will try and post some pics. Cant wait till I hit the track in a couple of weeks to see how it goes.

oddski

Ok, cannot post get any pics at the moment, but will fill in some later. The pod feels free, wires are not touching pod or body. Then we are probably left with diff or tyres. I´ll try some different tyres/sauce tomorrow and see if that make any change.

Locked diff: Do you mean to tighten until I cannot move the spur at all? Then I can thighten up a some more. Else the diffballs feels new and fine. The manual only mention setting to difficult (very...) to rotate, so I guess its to loose now.

Thank you very much

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

90% of the setup is tires.
The rest is fine tuning.

With that 5.5t motor, you will need a lot of rear grip to maintain stability under hard acceleration. Both from the track surface, and from the tires.

Diff Action setting.
Locked:
The spur should not slip under acceleration.
To test this, hold both wheels, and try to move the spur with your thumb.
It should be very difficult to move, if at all.

Smooth:
There should be no grinding, or gritty feel when you rotate the wheels, spur stationary.

Free:
The drag from the motor should be enough to keep the spur from moving, while diff action is maintained.

The pod should be perfectly free without side damper or springs installed.
no bind, no drag, just perfectly floating.
Check for side shock-ball ends bound up too.
Those can only snap-on one way, or they will not fit right.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Funny. my car did the same thing first run and first thing suggested was tweak.



Ran mine at speedweekend. Still having trouble
Getting power out of my tekin 17.5. Top speed is np but accelleration and corner speed just cant compare to the overwhelming trinity pressence in our club. Wondering if this is just an old
Motor, wrong rollout/ esc setting or i let off too much o
Make the corner.

Just thought about it but
Maybe my batteries suck? Two smc 60c 5600's. First minute the car is pretty quick but then i can almost full throttle everything.

Running 17.5 redline/RS. Zero can timing. 77-81 rollouts on 42.5-44mm new crc greylows.
Boost 50. 14xx-7500 rpm turbo 10. Delay 0.44, ramp 2.

Id say my driving is getting smoother but
Watching the amain drivers, their cars just dart through turns. Maybe i let off
Too
Much and scrub too
Much? Maybe 75%.

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Green fuzz or no fuzz I love Kevin's tracks they all got heart in them cause I think that's where he comes from when he builds them and to do all that hard work he does I just want to appreciate them

Go Norcal

Drifter

At last I started to build my RC12R5.1. Brand new everything: kit, lipo conversion, Futaba BLS651 Servo, LRP SXX V2 Speedo and X12 Octa 4.0 Motor. Radio is brand new Futaba 4PKS, Battery will hopefully be Orion 6400mAh 1S 90C Lipo, maybe I have to switch to LRP 5800 mAh 1S Lipo which should be easier to get.

Unfortunately I had to notice, that I do not have the screws to use the conversion kit!? There came no screews at all with the conversion kit and not enough in the car kit, is this right ? Just had to stop building to order more stuff .

An other question which just came to my mind: how to change the battery? With the front chassis brace in place I cant slip my LRP 1S 5400mAh Lipo in place??

oddski

Just unscrew the three top screws holding the brace. Much easier to tape the battery securely too

oddski

Ok, tightened the diff properly, the car were much better on throttle. Also changed the upper arm mounts from 10 to 5 deg. Still it was extremely edgy and undriveable. The tires seemed balanced. No front push nor slip at back.

Tried to turn down steering balance from 70 to 60 to 50, yet undriveable. Hmm, maybe a slower steering would help?
-St punch from 35 to 0
-St curve from 10 to -20
Finally it seems to be stable, will do some more research on this, but now somewhere near good to go(I have a KO Helios w/spektrum module, bought used...)

Took of tweak bar & shock, no bind in pod. Also gave sidesprings two turns preload from tweak bar, so I could do a little adjustment. Put coins on front wheel, some adjustments in side springs, and the both drop at same time. Will do the full tweak out later. This site seems like a good tutorial: markpayneblog.blogspot.com/search/label/How%20to%20Tweak%20Out%20a%2012th%20Car

The side balance is not 100% but quite close...

SlowerOne

Some things I notice...

The tyres are in terrible condition, that will make the car turn very unpredictably. You need new tyres without any chunks in them, front or rear.

The sensor lead will be jammed against the body, and that will give unpredictable handling as it will not allow the chassis to move correctly. When the body is on the car, nothing should be touching it except the body clips holding it up. All wires must be below the body on the inside, the body must float on the four posts, and the top body clips must not push down on the body. They need to be close, but not to push on the body.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you think this is a good 12th build, then you may have built problems in elsewhere. Is there a skilled 12th driver at your Club who can look at the car, and check your build in detail? I think that would help a lot. HTH

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

a couple of things that are pretty obvious from viewing the photos....1) the motor wires are much too thick and way too stiff for use on a pancar. Those speedo wires are surely effecting the motion of the rear pod in a very detrimental way. The pod must be completely free of any binding or restriction of motion if the car is going to have any chance of driving well. and 2) 1/12th scale cars are super sensitive to the type of tires and also to the condition of them. Most any driver (no matter how experienced or how talented) could put those thick speedo wires and those chunked up rear tires on his otherwise perfectly setup and totally dialed in 1/12th scale car and it would instantly become a real handful to drive. 1/12th scale racing is all about taking care of small details. The car in the photo exhibits a couple of the major taboos that are easily visible even at first glance. It is no surprise at all that that it drives poorly. the first steps to major improvements in that car's behaviour would be to switch to flexible 16 ga motor wires and to fit some good tires. At almost any track that you might visit, the experienced guys will surely help out with recommending a good tire selection. Once these two initial issues are fixed, I'll bet that the car will surely drive dramatically better. Then you can move on to taking care of all manner of smaller details that will each make the car drive better and better.

oddski

I drove with new tires today, those on the pics were used on my first run. As with wires, everyone in my club run with the same stock LRP-wires without any trouble(In corallys, a crc , an xray and another R5.1). I have some Deans "wet noodles" 12 ga, but if 16 ga is better, I will get them fitted instead. Also a proper sensor-wire is on the shopping list(100mm), the one fitted do touch body etc.

But, I seemed to figure out the nervous steering by slowing down the servo(punch & curve settings). Only a slight touch on the steering wheel prior to that sent the car way off track. Maybe also redusing front sauce to zero. Afterwards it ran quite nice

So: New wires & sensor cables, wheels and practise(not a skilled driver, just a handfull of batteries yet)

avs

iTrader: (2)

it is a little hard to tell from the picture but it looks like the rear wheels might stick out past the body, 172mm is the max rear width and should fit easily within the body. (it may also be the reason for the chunked tire, due to body/tire collisions)

the exceed tires have more offset than JACO or CRC. the R5 rear end fairly wide, are you sure it is below 172mm and centered?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Just from the rear view, you can see the motor wires are holding up the body, the clips on the body post are no where near the body.

Follow the advice the guys are trying to give you here.
The are a lot of little issues that need to be worked out, before that car will work as it should.

Stick with it, and soon you will have a fun little car