R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-15-2011, 02:15 PM   #3406
Tech Elite
 
Rick Hohwart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,864
Default New setup posted

Keven Hebert - U.S. Indoor Championships / Midwest Grand Slam #2
Rick Hohwart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 03:32 PM   #3407
Tech Elite
 
Josh-n-ya's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 2,009
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

So I have converted my 12r5 to dampner tubes instead of the mono shock. It works great and am second in points. I tried to do the same with my 12r5.1 and its not happening. The top plate on the motor pod sticks out further and rubs against the tubes. My problem is I never can get the mono shock working good. I always seem to have a tweek and it doesnt want to go side to side smoothly. I notice that it is a little tight one way and not the other! Center pivot ball is free and smooth so are the links. When I put that shock on is when I have the problems. Do you seet the allen locking collar all the way down to where it bottoms out on the shock shaft or what?
Josh-n-ya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 06:34 PM   #3408
AE-Reedy
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 752
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
So I have converted my 12r5 to dampner tubes instead of the mono shock. It works great and am second in points. I tried to do the same with my 12r5.1 and its not happening. The top plate on the motor pod sticks out further and rubs against the tubes. My problem is I never can get the mono shock working good. I always seem to have a tweek and it doesnt want to go side to side smoothly. I notice that it is a little tight one way and not the other! Center pivot ball is free and smooth so are the links. When I put that shock on is when I have the problems. Do you seet the allen locking collar all the way down to where it bottoms out on the shock shaft or what?
Yes. Green slime is important when building these shocks. Also every time you do a rebuild you should replace the o-rings, do not try and reuse them.

With the shock installed and the side springs removed does evreything work free?
Sean Cochran is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 06:41 PM   #3409
Tech Elite
 
Josh-n-ya's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 2,009
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Yes. Green slime is important when building these shocks. Also every time you do a rebuild you should replace the o-rings, do not try and reuse them.

With the shock installed and the side springs removed does evreything work free?
Whats the purpose of the green slime? I never had the shock alone without the side springs. I admit I have re-used 0-rings before but still.
Josh-n-ya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 06:55 PM   #3410
AE-Reedy
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 752
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Whats the purpose of the green slime? I never had the shock alone without the side springs. I admit I have re-used 0-rings before but still.
The green slime lubricates the o-rings and helps reduce "stiction".
The o-rings swell after being in contact with the shock oil, this makes bleeding after a rebuild difficult and the swelling also increases the stiction.

I just asked about shock no side spring so you can feel the shock when you work the rear pod. This might make it easier to feel a bind or other problem.
Sean Cochran is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 07:23 PM   #3411
Tech Master
 
valk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 1,932
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to valk Send a message via AIM to valk Send a message via MSN to valk
Default

hmm. im running a used car and with all the original gear that came on it i dont get any of the problems your describing. i refill the shocks before each race night just to make sure they are clean and stuff but havent rebuild them yet. i find it harder to get the plastic guide in than fiddle with the oring. maybe im lucky?

shocks are smooth both ways.. dunno. im noob but im not convinced how damper tubes are better. explain?
valk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 07:49 PM   #3412
Tech Elite
 
Josh-n-ya's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 2,009
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
The green slime lubricates the o-rings and helps reduce "stiction".
The o-rings swell after being in contact with the shock oil, this makes bleeding after a rebuild difficult and the swelling also increases the stiction.

I just asked about shock no side spring so you can feel the shock when you work the rear pod. This might make it easier to feel a bind or other problem.
Thanks for the advice! So do you put the green slime on the O-ring and let it set. Or can you just put it in right after? Is stiction the same as friction?
Josh-n-ya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2011, 08:23 PM   #3413
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Thanks for the advice! So do you put the green slime on the O-ring and let it set. Or can you just put it in right after? Is stiction the same as friction?
Dudes have always coated the o-ring with some lube of some sort for lubrication, protection and to avoid any stickyness in intial movement of piston rod against o-ring hence "stiction" and I believe there is no waiting "time" in building shock and usage there of ...lol

Stiction vs. Friction
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...

Last edited by Infinite 12th; 12-16-2011 at 08:35 PM.
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 05:06 PM   #3414
Tech Master
 
spurcheck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Last in the "Z" main
Posts: 1,593
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
So I have converted my 12r5 to dampner tubes instead of the mono shock. It works great and am second in points. I tried to do the same with my 12r5.1 and its not happening. The top plate on the motor pod sticks out further and rubs against the tubes. My problem is I never can get the mono shock working good. I always seem to have a tweek and it doesnt want to go side to side smoothly. I notice that it is a little tight one way and not the other! Center pivot ball is free and smooth so are the links. When I put that shock on is when I have the problems. Do you seet the allen locking collar all the way down to where it bottoms out on the shock shaft or what?
This upgrade is of interest to me. I currently run a R5.1, it does not have the Associated lipo "inline" chassis upgrade and thru research found Speedmerchant sells a rear dampner tube upgrade kit (rear pod, tubes and associated parts) for the R5.1 inline chassis #6030. Is this the upgrade you did to your car? If so, am I correct that you are experiencing interference of the top plate contacting the tubes? Or did you do some other modification to install the tubes on your ride?
__________________
The Punter or The Punt-ee,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,who you be??

No Apologies Racing, don't believe me, try me!!!!!
spurcheck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 07:51 PM   #3415
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Never had any problems with the shocks, they are smooth and work. I get a kick out of all the work the tube people engage in just to keep them clean and afixed to the chassis. No thanks, I'll stick with my low maintenance shocks.
AreCee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 09:01 PM   #3416
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,540
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
I'm interested in this too. I just built mine with the arms that came with the kit, so one has the ball pressed in from the top, the other from the bottom. I thought it was strange but couldn't see a way around it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Boyd View Post
I think something is up as I just bought another two packs of arms for spares & one pack had lefts, the other rights.
The arms are not symetrical, Left & Right is correct.
They are not marked as such, but the directions are very clear on the orientation of assembly.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 09:13 PM   #3417
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
The arms are not symetrical, Left & Right is correct.
They are not marked as such, but the directions are very clear on the orientation of assembly.
Are you running the new tamale pod? Any pic's?
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 09:16 PM   #3418
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,540
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Not yet...
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 09:27 PM   #3419
Tech Regular
 
dirtman71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Ok I decided to take the 12r5.1 in trade minus the power system. it had a 5.5 motor and lrp esc. I will get it tomorow but would like to know how much room I have for an esc. seems to be limited on hight.

wanted just to run a 17.5 but will probably start with a 13.5. Was thinking that a 35a esc might work but without a fan I think it might get to hot?
So maybe I guess I am stuck with running a 60a?
__________________
Kyosho SC-R, RC8Be, Jammin X1CRe, Jammin SCRT10, RC10GT2, T4.1
Slash 2wd ChuckWorks slice B2, E-maxx, RC10T3, Tamiya M-05, TA-05
dirtman71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 09:35 PM   #3420
Tech Fanatic
 
Infinite 12th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 877
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
Ok I decided to take the 12r5.1 in trade minus the power system. it had a 5.5 motor and lrp esc. I will get it tomorow but would like to know how much room I have for an esc. seems to be limited on hight.

wanted just to run a 17.5 but will probably start with a 13.5. Was thinking that a 35a esc might work but without a fan I think it might get to hot?
So maybe I guess I am stuck with running a 60a?
Awesome you got it

Tekin RS or LRP stock/spec are popular for 12th

Tekin is about 60 bucks cheaper but requires extra booster or receiver pack
__________________
12th scale - The Jedi class...
Infinite 12th is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
*Team Associated RC12R5* Zdiddy R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 08-31-2008 01:03 PM
RC12R5 Setup Sheets Cubic$Racing Electric On-Road 2 06-20-2008 11:27 AM
Team Associated RC12R5 ammo Singapore R/C Racers 12 05-15-2008 09:37 AM
AE RC12R5 alana07 Singapore R/C Racers 3 03-27-2008 10:56 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:06 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0