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Old 11-18-2011, 12:17 PM   #3331
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Keven Hebert's winning 12R5.1 Modified setup is now posted.

Keven Hebert - Timezone Grand Prix
I watched his performance, nothing but impressive... Broke into the 9s and had near identical back to back rounds...

Thanks for coming out Keven!

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Old 11-18-2011, 06:58 PM   #3332
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These is always a chance there is a problem with the battery but they should outperform most if not all of what is on the market.

Can you test it with a Turbo 35? You can send it back for a test if you want.
I had Turbo35, but how to test the battery ?
Also, how did we know the battery is OK from the result ?
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:35 AM   #3333
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i've tested batteries with my Turbo 35 in the past. What I've done is charged them on my lipo charger (I never had my T35 upgraded) then I have discharged them down to either 3V for single cell or 6V at 35A. You then have a capacity reading and average voltage.

Obviously you need some kind of idea what is good and what is bad, I guess in this case it would be useful if Rick had some reference values?
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:35 AM   #3334
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With the R5.1 lipo conversion, what is the proper amount of spacers that are need to be installed under the center shock ballstud and the side shock ballstud? The original R5.1 manual shows 2mm under the center shock and 4mm under the side shock. Does this carry over with the conversion or is a change required?
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:29 AM   #3335
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Ran my 5.1Onpoint last night.
i went back to mostly box stock settings. the previous ownder had a ton of spacers on the front kingpins so went back to manual settings in the front.
tried gold springs in the rear with 20/30 wt oil and the car seemed to handle pretty nice, though with our traction level of the night, was difficult to guess at how the car would take turns.

car would enter corners as expected but half way through the front end would just bite and id be in the wall.
got easier to get around as the night progressed but still have some ways to go with driving and setting up 12th scale.

what weight oils should i be using primarily?was thinking of going stiffer but unsure.

also, what about spring preloads? i was running blues before and the car was more responsive but i had to add a ton of expo and low dual rate to get around the track ha.
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:29 PM   #3336
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I had Turbo35, but how to test the battery ?
Also, how did we know the battery is OK from the result ?
That sucks your having problem. Maybe a dud?

Steve Ashby told me today it's the best lipo he's seen so far
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:02 AM   #3337
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Can someone give me and idea of things they have changed going from the .1 to the new inline battery config? I see softer springs front and side. What about tires do you notice a concistent change in tires you are using?
Thanks Jason
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:03 AM   #3338
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Can someone give me and idea of things they have changed going from the .1 to the new inline battery config? I see softer springs front and side. What about tires do you notice a concistent change in tires you are using?
Thanks Jason
Same tires.
Just try Blackstock or Hebert setup and you'll be dialed.
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Old 11-21-2011, 01:46 PM   #3339
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With the R5.1 lipo conversion, what is the proper amount of spacers that are need to be installed under the center shock ballstud and the side shock ballstud? The original R5.1 manual shows 2mm under the center shock and 4mm under the side shock. Does this carry over with the conversion or is a change required?
Anyone? Is there a standard setting or what would be a good starting point? Thanks
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Old 11-21-2011, 02:26 PM   #3340
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Anyone? Is there a standard setting or what would be a good starting point? Thanks
http://teamassociated.com/setupsheets/RC12R5.1/
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Old 11-21-2011, 02:50 PM   #3341
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Anyone? Is there a standard setting or what would be a good starting point? Thanks
No more than 2mm under the side shock mount, or there will be clearance issues with the pod.

2 mm or more for the center shock, there is room for adjustment.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:14 PM   #3342
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this question isnt really directly about this car but it pretains i guess.

i have two motors. both 17.5. Tekin and LRP, but trying to get my head around setting them up in my esc.
ive read that you dont want to exceed 60 total timing advance on the motor, but its confusing, because some setups ive seen with motors that have very high static timing like my lrp, call for a ton of boost that would go beyond 60.

but what are people finding effective in 12th scale? higher static bell timing or all esc timing? I set my tekin to 0 endbell timing and run it all through the esc. car is as fast down the straight but seriously lacking punch in the infield. so probably too much advance at a bad power band.

im still new to this whole esc timing thing as ive only every run blinky mode until now.
im more trying to decide if its better trying to figure out my Redline and rs settings better or if i should just drop in the LRP ect ha.

noobish question, probably dumb but i cant write well now. late in evening, screaming baby.. bah.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:12 PM   #3343
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this question isnt really directly about this car but it pretains i guess.

i have two motors. both 17.5. Tekin and LRP, but trying to get my head around setting them up in my esc.
ive read that you dont want to exceed 60 total timing advance on the motor, but its confusing, because some setups ive seen with motors that have very high static timing like my lrp, call for a ton of boost that would go beyond 60.

but what are people finding effective in 12th scale? higher static bell timing or all esc timing? I set my tekin to 0 endbell timing and run it all through the esc. car is as fast down the straight but seriously lacking punch in the infield. so probably too much advance at a bad power band.

im still new to this whole esc timing thing as ive only every run blinky mode until now.
im more trying to decide if its better trying to figure out my Redline and rs settings better or if i should just drop in the LRP ect ha.

noobish question, probably dumb but i cant write well now. late in evening, screaming baby.. bah.
In general.

If you are going to use boost, leave the motor at the factory preset, or neutral timing position, and let the esc do the work.
With the LRP motors, this will almost always be 4-dot = 27.5

Esc boosting requires time and testing to find what works best for you, your car, track, motor, etc.

I have heard many times over that 60 is only a safe baseline, not a hard fast rule, though on tighter circuits less timing will normally be the go. High speed tracks may require more timing.

Tekin have a list for Team Driver setups to give a guideline of what direction to go with what you have.
They won't have a setup for every motor, track, or car, but the info is useful.
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/index.html

When running in blinky mode, it is common to crank the endbell to max, or nearly max, then gear for best average lap-time.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:36 PM   #3344
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any ideas where i would want to move the timing advance to get more grunt from my tekin? has the straight away speed but its a real dog in the infield.
set the endbell to zero and boost in the esc but im wondering how playing with end bell timing and the esc low rpm boost point would work.
sadly, i dont get a lot of track time. three qualifiers and one or two mains every two weeks. not looking for A SETUP but a place to start for my next day out =)

was running zero endbell, 45boost 2500-10000, 15 turbo ramp 2.

i can tell just driving my tc around that my lrp is a stronger motor, just looking to see if i can bring my tekin up a little bit =).
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:44 PM   #3345
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any ideas where i would want to move the timing advance to get more grunt from my tekin? has the straight away speed but its a real dog in the infield.
set the endbell to zero and boost in the esc but im wondering how playing with end bell timing and the esc low rpm boost point would work.
sadly, i dont get a lot of track time. three qualifiers and one or two mains every two weeks. not looking for A SETUP but a place to start for my next day out =)

was running zero endbell, 45boost 2500-10000, 15 turbo ramp 2.

i can tell just driving my tc around that my lrp is a stronger motor, just looking to see if i can bring my tekin up a little bit =).
Honestly, if you don't have test days, blinky is quite a bit easier to sort out.
Finding the right rollout is the most important factor for laptimes, and is so often overlooked.
Gear down for punch, up for top end, always temp after a few minutes when running a new setting.
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