AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Wow, what bad luck. That's what I dislike about titanium, it doesn't bend like steel, it snaps.

Breaking an axle is a feat. Those are really strong but one little score will be a fracture point on a CF part.

valk

iTrader: (13)

axel sheared off at the screw. where the screw hole meets the nut portion is like.. .5mm walled tube, so not surprised it would break there. just sucks. just put a $100 order into amain and not really getting a whole lot. some springs, decals, those two metal parts and a few little bits like screws and eyelets.
but i did invest in a crc wide bumper so hopefully i can avoid some of these broken bits in the future.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand what you mean by the screw hole and nut. Was it the diff side or the non-drive side?

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

he's talking about the front axles

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I thought he broke the rear axle. Now it makes sense.

Here's the cure, "Stop hitting things". That's what a steering wheel is for.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Only first year of rc and 2nd night in 12th scale. Not quite at the point of hitting lines consistantly just yet.

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Guy's

Im trying to balance my rear Pod, just the Pod, not the whole car. I've got a LRp/Nosram X12 stock motor in, which is quit shorter compaired to Speedpassion/Orion/Graupner. And the balance is way off... Even with a 1mm shim between the motor, and motor mount it's still way off. You guy's experienced the same?

Regards Robert

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

I'm just joking with you. The learning curve is quite steep for these cars but once mastered they are fun. It's a growing class where I race.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

This is the one I use
It's 2.5mm



Tamiya TB03D Alum Motor Spacer #54129

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

So couldnt you just add a weight to the side of the pod that needed it, instead of shimming the motor? I recently decided to weigh my pod off the car as well since I had read that article on pod balance. To my surprise my pod was unbalanced. I thought they would have figured out how to make them more balanced right off the bat. Should you balance the pod then re-attach it and then ballance the whole car again? And what does it do to the car if the pod is unbalanced?

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

I think this is a little overkill IMHO. Car pods really haven't truly been unbalanced since the Delta days but given that some motors may have different weight distribution I think general balance from side to side over the total car length is what is key! The tweak and pod moving freely with small wires and sensor also uninhibited by any snagging on the pod would supercede any extreme pod balancing

Also the pod really doesn't move side to side just up and down hence the chassis does the lateral moving so would you indeed consider balancing the pod from front to back also. Where would your center be. This to me is too complicated but I would be interested in what answer came forth

Really if the ft/side and top spring are complimentary to the right tires then damping is left to combine with the spring rate choice otherwise you have your little adjustments like castor and ride height that make the total package

I mean you got inline configurations and "normal" configurations and both cars look magnificent so I think trying to balance the pod yourself and tell if it was an noticeable adjustment will be an interesting answer

I like the topic but to me I'd balance the pod as a last resort to totally dial my car in IMHO

But the enthusiasm to tune the car to uttermost lengths is well recieved

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

with a speedpassion V3 1 cell motor I needed a 3mm shim to balance the pod. Its worth doing when building the car, its very easy to check and correct.

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

Much appreciated info on the motor spacer. Thanks.

Are you guys using spacers like the above predominantly? Or are little shims(like the blue aluminum M3 shims that go under the ballstuds) good enough to space the motor?

It would seem to me that you would want as much surface area touching between the motor and motor mount as possible.

SlowerOne

Someone is going to have to explain this pod-balancing obsession to me...

The pod is a solid structure, with no joints. Whatever weight is put in it will even out across both wheels. It is connected to the chassis by a single, central point so can have no effect on the balance of the chassis.

Once the dynamics kicks in, then a severe imbalance could conceivably cause the car to unweight one wheel more than the other, but it would have to be severe. It could be countered by setting the axle slightly offset, thus sharing whatever dynamic imbalance exits across the contact patches. This clearly is not the case, since those doing the balancing do not run their axle centre-line any different to those of us who don't.

It's a concept that has apparent merit in theory, but in practice it doesn't stand up to a basic mechanical engineering analysis. Unless someone can explain it better...

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Aw heck. You mean I've been messed up all this time and still manage to break the track record for 1/12 17.5 open two weeks in a row.

I checked my tweak and it is right on. I checked my side to side balance since I neglected to do so after the LiPo conversion and it's 22g light on the electronics side.