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Old 10-23-2011, 12:57 AM   #3196
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Originally Posted by wyl03 View Post
what do you guys do when you "rebuild the diff"?
- lube the diff balls & clean the plates?

anything else?
i doubt the diff balls need replacement at every rebuild.

I take everything apart and clean then put together and re-lube

If it isn't smooth again I replace balls or rings or both

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Old 10-23-2011, 02:30 AM   #3197
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I take everything apart and clean then put together and re-lube

If it isn't smooth again I replace balls or rings or both

cheers. that's what i had in mind. what balls or rings guys do you use? std AE parts or are there any good aftermarket ones?
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:56 AM   #3198
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Originally Posted by wyl03 View Post
what do you guys do when you "rebuild the diff"?
- lube the diff balls & clean the plates?

anything else?
i doubt the diff balls need replacement at every rebuild.

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Originally Posted by valk View Post
pretty sure the only savox is 1250mg. thats what im running. dunno how it feels compared to jr/futaba/airtronics though.


first real race day with the car today. second day racing pancar and second on carpet.
new crc tires started with kit settings but blue center spring silver sides. changed to blue sides and left it for the rest of the night. not sure what else to change, probably have to just drive it for aw hile and get a feel for pancars.

one question though, how do you set droop? do you have to change the spacers in the center shock?
By turning the shock end that attaches to the pod, also make sure the shock piston is always fully seated in the shock end for consistency
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I take everything apart and clean then put together and re-lube

If it isn't smooth again I replace balls or rings or both
If it feels gritty, check the thrust bearing also.
Hey Valk
How is the car working for you now ?
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:17 PM   #3199
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when you say turn the shock end, do you mean move the ballcup/setscrew?

car runs pretty nice though i dont have any pancar setup tools. i dont know how i would measure the droop even if i could adjust it. i use the clubs tweak station and the rest i just use my calipers.
put a new set of crc tires on it. grey lows i think. its hard for me to describe how the car behaves as i dont know anythinga bout pan cars. changes direction a lot faster than my tc and seems to hold more corner speed but seems like it could hold more speed and respond a little quicker.

with the silver side springs it was a boat, blue helped a lot. wanted to try gold but wasn't sure if that would work for me as i had my dual rate set down pretty low. i also dont have any other center springs.

there were a couple other assocaiteds when i walked through the pits. one guy was running the 5.2 with speed merchant rear. asked him about setup opinions but all i got was "ah, im running a differet this and that so cant help you" was running gold center spring though so i might try that too.

maybe ill ask someone to take a vid next time for me. i tended to drive it smoother and more arcing than most of the fast guys. still not used to how much traction and how fast these things turn on carpet.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:32 PM   #3200
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
when you say turn the shock end, do you mean move the ballcup/setscrew?

car runs pretty nice though i dont have any pancar setup tools. i dont know how i would measure the droop even if i could adjust it. i use the clubs tweak station and the rest i just use my calipers.
put a new set of crc tires on it. grey lows i think. its hard for me to describe how the car behaves as i dont know anythinga bout pan cars. changes direction a lot faster than my tc and seems to hold more corner speed but seems like it could hold more speed and respond a little quicker.

with the silver side springs it was a boat, blue helped a lot. wanted to try gold but wasn't sure if that would work for me as i had my dual rate set down pretty low. i also dont have any other center springs.

there were a couple other assocaiteds when i walked through the pits. one guy was running the 5.2 with speed merchant rear. asked him about setup opinions but all i got was "ah, im running a differet this and that so cant help you" was running gold center spring though so i might try that too.

maybe ill ask someone to take a vid next time for me. i tended to drive it smoother and more arcing than most of the fast guys. still not used to how much traction and how fast these things turn on carpet.
I wouldn't worry about ft droop yet but with rear droop you generally want less on carpet, more on asphalt

To see how much droop you have take wheels off and spur then set on flat table. Then push down on shock where it meets rear pod and how much it compresses is how much rear droop

So basically rear droop is how much pod sags down which I use shock length (spacers) to adjust

A good place to set ride height is about 3.2

If there are many bumps set a little higher

For now set your toe even and ft camber so the tires wear flat

Rear tire size 44mm ft 42mm to start

Caster set maybe 3-4 degree's

Start off with less dampning than more and if your car seems too knarly add more dampning

12th scale cars are lighter than before so they will need softer springs in general so try .020 in ft and the soft/medium on rear sides

I've noticed the softer the top shock spring the more steering you'll get and with harder you'll push but think of these things as relative to the track/conditions

The tires I use are magenta ft/rear and dbl pink ft and pink rear

I have no experience with the black ft and yellow rear or other exotic rears

Good luck
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:42 PM   #3201
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shock length spacer is the one that's inside the shock? do you know part numbers for the different sized ones?

im not truing the tires down at the moment. running them straight out of the box which was 47ish rear, adjusted rollout to 81ish.
front tires got kind of chewed up from the body though. most of the chunks are out of the middle of the tire so hope i can still run them a few more race days before changing them out. rears dont seem to have worn at all.

also where do i get kingpin lube? amain turned up nothing on the search.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:54 PM   #3202
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shock length spacer is the one that's inside the shock? do you know part numbers for the different sized ones?

im not truing the tires down at the moment. running them straight out of the box which was 47ish rear, adjusted rollout to 81ish.
front tires got kind of chewed up from the body though. most of the chunks are out of the middle of the tire so hope i can still run them a few more race days before changing them out. rears dont seem to have worn at all.

also where do i get kingpin lube? amain turned up nothing on the search.
I space the outside of my shock or unscrew it for more droop or yea put .5mm spacers inside til your droop is about .5-1mm

Yea side chunks are worse

You can just use diff lube to start on kingpins

Find someone who is little more friendly also to help you at your track

I'd stay smooth and arc'y cause some drivers are all car and no driving and being smooth is what end's up being faster
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:01 PM   #3203
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wow. the spacer thats inside is massive then. must be 2-3mm.
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:10 PM   #3204
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wow. the spacer thats inside is massive then. must be 2-3mm.
However you do it jsut makes sure the pod doesn't "hang/droop" too much on carpet

On asphalt more droop is better usually cause of bumps
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:18 PM   #3205
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Well I just had the opportunity to try out the new chassis conversion today. At first I had to chase down a traction issue but once that was resolved I really like the feel of the inline conversion. Very smooth and consistant transition into turns, good corner entry and very good exit.

I like it. TQ and 1st in A-main, not bad for opening day.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:44 PM   #3206
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Default spacers to extend the front arm

Can someone post a pick of their 12r5.2 front arms shimmed to make them longer?
I just can't picture how to do this?
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:54 PM   #3207
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Can someone post a pick of their 12r5.2 front arms shimmed to make them longer?
I just can't picture how to do this?
Where the reactive castor piece meets the top arm put mm spacers then adjust camber/toe accordingly
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:30 PM   #3208
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Really nice one Redbull. Here's mine:





Regards Robert
what with the different front brace why you go this way other then stock
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:56 PM   #3209
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what with the different front brace why you go this way other then stock
The brace would take away steering like in case of super high bite

I like massive steering and would not add brace
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:16 AM   #3210
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The brace would take away steering like in case of super high bite

I like massive steering and would not add brace
What advantage does not running the brace have over using softer springs?
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