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Old 10-16-2011, 07:27 AM   #3166
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Hmmm...I added up all the parts, looks like it's cheaper to buy the 12R5.1 kit and the lipo conversion compaired to building the kit from parts.
You might consider picking up the cheapest used 5.1 you can find, and build that up with the conversion kit.
Every Carbon fiber piece on the car is new in the conversion kit.
Add new bearings, and essentially you will have a new car
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:35 AM   #3167
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Thanks

The only video that I've seen of him in the main barely gave a chance to see it roll but in what I saw it seemed to take slightly longer in transitions from left to right which kinda translated to me it was very smooth

Naoto's car seemed to transition quicker but seemed to have less inertia through the corners hence Naoto's car seemed more aggressive and Keven's seemed more in control kinda or stuck in whatever position it was in but I didn't see it definitely having more steering just more stable in whatever corner angle

I mean I'm not even got my car on track yet but I could tell the difference in the way the inline car looked in contrast to non-inline

It's amazing how sensitive 12th cars are to configuration's let alone settings...lol

I'm not sure I'd bet on the inline for being faster than non-inline but perhaps a different style of driving for 12th scale drivers although I'm sure the next set of kits will probably be inline?

The inline also reminds me of a car you could put massive motor in cause it's so stable or stuck in the rear

So maybe people will figure out inline works better some places and non-inline others...lol
Every driver has their own style.
Naoto is very aggressive, his driving technique is vastly different from most.
Trying to glean any comparison, or difference in chassis from watching a video is dodgy at best.

On the high grip rug at iic, the inline cars were very good, inside tire lift was not an issue at all. Aside from that they drove more or less the same.

I'm curious to see how the inline chassis works on low grip outdoor surfaces, where tire loads are much less.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:15 PM   #3168
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has anyone fabricated a hardware lipo strap for their car? only raced it once but tape isnt doing it for me holding the battery. takes too long to change the tape if you have to change the battery and the battery still slides around. my chassis is scratched from the battery slipping. curious if others have done somthing. have a few ideas of my own.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:28 PM   #3169
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has anyone fabricated a hardware lipo strap for their car? only raced it once but tape isnt doing it for me holding the battery. takes too long to change the tape if you have to change the battery and the battery still slides around. my chassis is scratched from the battery slipping. curious if others have done somthing. have a few ideas of my own.
I put a thin sheet of lexan on the bottom of my battery to protect chassis. Also, what is the Mah size of your battery.. My CRC 5200's actually sat below the edge of forward battery holder, so only tape was holding it. The lexan raised the battery so it actually sets against forward lipo holder taking the strain off the battery tape
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:35 PM   #3170
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Every driver has their own style.
Naoto is very aggressive, his driving technique is vastly different from most.
Trying to glean any comparison, or difference in chassis from watching a video is dodgy at best.

On the high grip rug at iic, the inline cars were very good, inside tire lift was not an issue at all. Aside from that they drove more or less the same.

I'm curious to see how the inline chassis works on low grip outdoor surfaces, where tire loads are much less.
Not sure what dodgy means but as my driving skills are the same or better I still get a feel for how a car works and drives regardless of driver input

I can't begin to think from a video that my perspective is better or worse than yours but in my giving my opinion I have noticed a certain way that inline cars in general rotate in cornering vs. non-inline

That is the only point I wished to make my friend

I am excited as you about these changes and that to me is awesome dude

Take care
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:46 PM   #3171
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a guy I race with puts servo tape on the chassis and makes it a little dirty with his fingers to reduce the tack, keeps the battery from sliding and can be used a few times over. I use regular old scotch double stick to keep it from sliding, but it will still slide if you hit the wall (BLAMMO! is almost a mandatory phrase at my local track) but I also charge the battery in my car...I have a taxicab to drive between 12th scale runs
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:01 PM   #3172
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a guy I race with puts servo tape on the chassis and makes it a little dirty with his fingers to reduce the tack, keeps the battery from sliding and can be used a few times over. I use regular old scotch double stick to keep it from sliding, but it will still slide if you hit the wall (BLAMMO! is almost a mandatory phrase at my local track) but I also charge the battery in my car...I have a taxicab to drive between 12th scale runs
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:19 PM   #3173
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I run 5600mah smc 60c. dont think i can charge them enough between rounds so i like to change them to always have a fresh one. ill have to make something maybe.
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:52 AM   #3174
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
has anyone fabricated a hardware lipo strap for their car? only raced it once but tape isnt doing it for me holding the battery. takes too long to change the tape if you have to change the battery and the battery still slides around. my chassis is scratched from the battery slipping. curious if others have done somthing. have a few ideas of my own.
i use one of the body protectors that parma includes with their 1/8 scale bodies. it is a thin plastic oval shape. cut in 1/4's and put in the four corners on the chassis gives me just enough traction.
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:00 AM   #3175
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Hey Valk

If you use a high quality RC specific strapping tape, you can re-use the tape all day, for indoors you can get a few meetings without changing the tape.

I use the electronics package to align the battery in the chassis, so when taped down, it does not move at all.
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:47 AM   #3176
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I'm curious to see how the inline chassis works on low grip outdoor surfaces, where tire loads are much less.
I ran the new chassis yesterday on a parking lot track that wasn't blown off or sprayed, and I had to go really soft on my side dampening/springs in order to generate any traction. I almost rotated the battery to the standard position, but decided against it for a single club race. By the time the mains came around, I was running 10wt shock oil w/green side springs.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:53 AM   #3177
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A couple questions:

1) What rear width do you guys typically run the car at? 170mm-ish? More?
1b) How many of those little .25" axle spacers do you use to achieve said width?
1c) Does anyone make .25" axle spacers that are thicker than the Associated pieces? With the Jaco rears, I needed 4x spacers on each side of the axle just to get 170mm width.

2) How much rear wheel "wobble" does your car have? I tend to be rather anal about things like this... and my car seems to have a little bit of wobble; nothing excessive, but it is something I would like to get rid of if possible.

Thanks. Ill be hitting the track with my car for the first time this weekend. Really looking forward to it. Been ~8yrs since Ive piloted a 12th scale
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:24 AM   #3178
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
A couple questions:

1) What rear width do you guys typically run the car at? 170mm-ish? More?
1b) How many of those little .25" axle spacers do you use to achieve said width?
172mm, RC4less has the .5mm shims, I use 3 on each side
1c) Does anyone make .25" axle spacers that are thicker than the Associated pieces? With the Jaco rears, I needed 4x spacers on each side of the axle just to get 170mm width.

2) How much rear wheel "wobble" does your car have? I tend to be rather anal about things like this... and my car seems to have a little bit of wobble; nothing excessive, but it is something I would like to get rid of if possible.
If the tires are trued straight, wobble is very minimal, after a few laps they should be perfectly concentric.
Thanks. Ill be hitting the track with my car for the first time this weekend. Really looking forward to it. Been ~8yrs since Ive piloted a 12th scale
I'd say have fun, but that's a given
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:49 AM   #3179
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Mike Blackstock's 12R5.1 13.5 Setup is now posted on AE's website.
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:12 PM   #3180
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I'm in the process of installing the Lipo upgrade kit. And I've got a *really* dumb question.

Is it supposed to be hard to get the battery installed? I've got to practically twist the chassis to get the battery installed. I've got a Reedy 4600 (with the tabs trimmed off), and no-way, no-how is that battery going to slip into position. I thought unlinking the center shock would do it, but nope.

What gives? Last thing I want to do is force the battery into the car. Nor do I want to charge with the battery in place....
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