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Old 10-13-2011, 08:41 PM   #3151
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Is it better to run a novak smart boost or a receiver pack? If a receiver pack what brand and part number. i run a tekin rs if that helps
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Last edited by guppy; 10-13-2011 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:39 AM   #3152
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Is it better to run a novak smart boost or a receiver pack? If a receiver pack what brand and part number. i run a tekin rs if that helps
Unless you're running a low turn mod motor on a high traction surface, boosters are fine, and obviously don't need any maintenance once installed.
http://www.tqcells.com/
Novak has a new 1s booster that also looks interesting.
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...5477/135.0.1.1


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Old 10-14-2011, 06:44 AM   #3153
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.5 drop off at 8 min huh? I somehow keep managing to pull my fastest lap on the last lap of the race. I can't work out if my problem is that I'm too conservative on motor set-up, whether I find the car easier to drive fast when the edge is taken off or if the issue is psychological.
It's not uncommon to run good laps at the end of a run on a low traction surface, or with an ill handling chassis.

But if that's happening where everything is working fine, you will need to be less conservative on your motor setup.
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:13 AM   #3154
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New to 1S racing. What motor temps should I be looking at? I know in TC I want to be around 160F, is it the same for 1S. Running 17.5 Boosted with a roll out around 80mm. I am playing around with the boost settings and wondering how hot (more boost) I can get without slowing the motor down.
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Yes, it's about the same on temp.

You want the fastest lap you can get, with no more than .5s drop at 8 mins.
That's a good setup, and it's more important than temp.
I'd say it more depends on the motor. X12s like it hot. All other motors will show a significant drop off in performance above 140ish. 1S doesn't have the balls to let the motors push hard once they get near max temp.

If you can get a set up that gives no more than a .5 drop off at 8 minutes, you're not only a bad ass tuner, you're a bad ass driver!
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:20 AM   #3155
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I'd say it more depends on the motor. X12s like it hot. All other motors will show a significant drop off in performance above 140ish. 1S doesn't have the balls to let the motors push hard once they get near max temp.

If you can get a set up that gives no more than a .5 drop off at 8 minutes, you're not only a bad ass tuner, you're a bad ass driver!
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Old 10-15-2011, 09:18 AM   #3156
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I'm learning to read the setup sheets and can't understand what Heberts notes in his IIC setup it says 2mm on top arm

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...t_iic_2011.pdf

Thank you
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Old 10-15-2011, 09:26 AM   #3157
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I'm learning to read the setup sheets and can't understand what Heberts notes in his IIC setup it says 2mm on top arm

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...t_iic_2011.pdf

Thank you
I think he is talkn about making the upper arm longer by placing 2mm spacers between the upper arm mount and the bulkhead.
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Old 10-15-2011, 09:38 AM   #3158
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I think he is talkn about making the upper arm longer by placing 2mm spacers between the upper arm mount and the bulkhead.
Which would mellow the steering correct?

Thanks
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:17 AM   #3159
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Can someone post the correct rear bulkhead part numbers that will fit on the conversion kit?
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:21 AM   #3160
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Can someone post the correct rear bulkhead part numbers that will fit on the conversion kit?
Use the same part numbers that the 12R5.1 kit uses not the 12R5 or 10R5.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:58 AM   #3161
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first night out with the car went pretty well. just have to get used to how much steering these things have. lots of my incidents were just turning in too early and smacking the apex.

didn't change anything on the car except fixing the tweak which was wayyy out causing the car to pull on the straight.

will have to fab up some kind of battery strap though. dealing with tape to change the battery between races is no fun.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:13 AM   #3162
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Which would mellow the steering correct?

Thanks
Yes, less camber gain should be smoother.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:17 AM   #3163
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Can someone post the correct rear bulkhead part numbers that will fit on the conversion kit?
8536 and 8537. Dont forget you need the 4687 post as well.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:22 AM   #3164
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Yes, less camber gain should be smoother.
Thanks

The only video that I've seen of him in the main barely gave a chance to see it roll but in what I saw it seemed to take slightly longer in transitions from left to right which kinda translated to me it was very smooth

Naoto's car seemed to transition quicker but seemed to have less inertia through the corners hence Naoto's car seemed more aggressive and Keven's seemed more in control kinda or stuck in whatever position it was in but I didn't see it definitely having more steering just more stable in whatever corner angle

I mean I'm not even got my car on track yet but I could tell the difference in the way the inline car looked in contrast to non-inline

It's amazing how sensitive 12th cars are to configuration's let alone settings...lol

I'm not sure I'd bet on the inline for being faster than non-inline but perhaps a different style of driving for 12th scale drivers although I'm sure the next set of kits will probably be inline?

The inline also reminds me of a car you could put massive motor in cause it's so stable or stuck in the rear

So maybe people will figure out inline works better some places and non-inline others...lol
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:13 AM   #3165
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8536 and 8537. Dont forget you need the 4687 post as well.
Hmmm...I added up all the parts, looks like it's cheaper to buy the 12R5.1 kit and the lipo conversion compaired to building the kit from parts.
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