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Old 07-09-2011, 04:57 PM   #2881
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I think there is a reason this is a conversion kit, rather than a new kit. I mean, there's a T-bar conversion kit too, but the car doesn't come that way. Usually the conversion kit comes out after an upgraded kit, the fact that we are seeing a conversion kit first tells me this isn't the optimum layout for most conditions.

If you read through the features, extended wheelbase for added stability is listed. Which probably means (a) that the liPo woldn't fit properly if the chassis weren't longer, (b) that the changed weight distribution makes the car less stable.

I reckon Associated have seen that OnPoint and others are selling these conversion kits, and thought that they might as well make one too and be the ones selling them.

Also, I would have thought that with this layout we could get rid of the battery tape, but apparently not.
You make a lot of assumptions there...
The Team Drivers have been running that setup since the Birds.

I'm not saying it's better until I try it, but the guy that designs this stuff is pretty sharp.
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Old 07-09-2011, 05:44 PM   #2882
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The Team Drivers have been running that setup since the Birds.

I'm not saying it's better until I try it, but the guy that designs this stuff is pretty sharp.
Agreed. Color me "cautiously optimistic".

Not every change is progress, not all progress is forward, and some paths are simply blind alleys that need explored to eleminate them from long term consideration.

Once this chassis configuration podiums regularly in large events, I'll think about leaving what I know works, and works well.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:32 PM   #2883
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You make a lot of assumptions there...
The Team Drivers have been running that setup since the Birds.

I'm not saying it's better until I try it, but the guy that designs this stuff is pretty sharp.
+1

It certainly looks cool, isn't it funny how odd a 12th scale looks with the battery off to one side when we're so used to seeing that configuration with tourers

I think given how light 1s lipo packs are, the new layout will more likely be an incremental improvement rather than a huge leap forward, but it will be interesting to see the feedback when some people start running it.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:03 AM   #2884
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CRC Front right height shims for 12R5 are available at TQ.



For more information, please visit www.tqrcracing.com
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Old 07-10-2011, 01:31 PM   #2885
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CRC Front right height shims for 12R5 are available at TQ.



For more information, please visit www.tqrcracing.com
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...it-10R5-12R5No No offense but you have to remove the screws in order to use the CRC shims.

I prefer the ManuTech shims, just loosen the screws and add or remove shims, much easier (and less expensive too).
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:46 PM   #2886
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I prefer the ManuTech shims, just loosen the screws and add or remove shims, much easier (and less expensive too).
+1 ManuTech. Almost too easy to change.
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:36 PM   #2887
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Hi,

I just got a used 12R5.1 and have not raced 12th scale in about 6 years or so. I'm also new to brushless technology, so please excuse my ignorance

Just a few questions:

1) I'll be running a 13.5 Trinity D3 motor. Is there an ESC you guys recommend over others? Right now I'm debating between the Novak GTB 2 and the Tekin RS. I'm wondering if the Tekin is worth the extra $60?

2) What tires (front and rear) do you recommend for low to medium traction carpet racing? The car I purchased here on R/C Tech came with loads of tires. I seem to remember running purple fronts and grey rears on my RC12L3 (again, many moons ago hehe!) in the stock 12th scale class.

3) On the subject of traction, is there a traction compound you guys like? I used to use TQ Blue.

Thanks a bunch!

- Sam
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Old 07-12-2011, 08:15 PM   #2888
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Hi,

I just got a used 12R5.1 and have not raced 12th scale in about 6 years or so. I'm also new to brushless technology, so please excuse my ignorance

Just a few questions:

1) I'll be running a 13.5 Trinity D3 motor. Is there an ESC you guys recommend over others? Right now I'm debating between the Novak GTB 2 and the Tekin RS. I'm wondering if the Tekin is worth the extra $60?

2) What tires (front and rear) do you recommend for low to medium traction carpet racing? The car I purchased here on R/C Tech came with loads of tires. I seem to remember running purple fronts and grey rears on my RC12L3 (again, many moons ago hehe!) in the stock 12th scale class.

3) On the subject of traction, is there a traction compound you guys like? I used to use TQ Blue.

Thanks a bunch!

- Sam
Gratz on the R5.1
Great car to get back into 12th scale with.

I think most of your questions could be answered with a visit to your local track.

There must be a baseline tire combo that most of the guys there use.
As well as a recommended tire sauce.
Black Front, Yellow Rear is a baseline setup that will get you started most anywhere.

Yes the Tekin RS or LRPSXX v2(Mod Blinky) LRPSXXSS(Blinky, Boosted) are worth the extra $, if you like a well balanced car with smaller electronics.
Especially if your track runs 13.5 with boost ?
Nothing wrong with a GTB2 except ( I think) that like the Tekin, it requires a booster for 1s. The LRP is made for 1s.
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:25 PM   #2889
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The Hobbywing 120A 1S is also a good ESC, and it's cheaper than the others, though you will also want the $20 program box.
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:10 AM   #2890
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...it-10R5-12R5No No offense but you have to remove the screws in order to use the CRC shims.

I prefer the ManuTech shims, just loosen the screws and add or remove shims, much easier (and less expensive too).
the CRC shims are 3 different thicknesses, .25 .50 and .75 mm.

you don't have to remove any screws, just take a scissors and make a slot. its nice to have the finer adjustment as well as the manutech aluminum bits for larger adjustment.
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:48 AM   #2891
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Hi guys, could I use the R5.1 lipo conversion on the R5 and if I could would it then be a R5.1 lipo chassis or would I have to change other things. Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2011, 06:25 AM   #2892
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Hi guys, could I use the R5.1 lipo conversion on the R5 and if I could would it then be a R5.1 lipo chassis or would I have to change other things. Thanks.
You'll need new pod plates (aluminum), the standoff that connects them in the rear, and a right side diff hub. That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
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Old 07-16-2011, 07:29 AM   #2893
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Hi guys, could I use the R5.1 lipo conversion on the R5 and if I could would it then be a R5.1 lipo chassis or would I have to change other things. Thanks.
The chassis of the R5.1 is identical to the R5, the difference is in the rear pod as said above. The R5.1 rear is more Brushless friendly than the R5 and centers the BL motor better for better weight distribution. The cost of converting a R5 to R5.1 is about $50 if you buy new parts, less if you buy used.

So for about $170 or so (approximate since I haven't seen the street price of the chassis conversion) you can convert a R5 into a R5.1 Lipo.

Personally I would wait for the kit and get a whole new car for $220 or so.
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Old 07-16-2011, 11:34 PM   #2894
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Thanks for the info. The R5 has only done one event on carpet so it looksd like a new kit and I can get it for 72$ with spares so it will cost about the same as a new kit but then I don't have to wait till thy release the R5.1 lipo. Has anyone maybe got the part no. For the needed parts.

Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:50 AM   #2895
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Originally Posted by charl mac View Post
Thanks for the info. The R5 has only done one event on carpet so it looksd like a new kit and I can get it for 72$ with spares so it will cost about the same as a new kit but then I don't have to wait till thy release the R5.1 lipo. Has anyone maybe got the part no. For the needed parts.

Thanks.
Probably best to run the car as is, till the new conversion kit is available.
Some of the parts to upgrade to 5.1, are different with the new conv kit.

5.0 to 5.1 post from this thread in 2009
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