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Old 11-09-2010, 12:37 PM   #2581
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Default novak havok 1s system

i currently have this in my 12r5. to my knowledge there is no way to change out the sensor wire. it seems to be hard wired to the motor. if im missing something here, please do inform me. thanks in advance.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:40 PM   #2582
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Since the discussion has been about wire. I have a question. I am setting up a 12 L4 right now I will be running 16 gauge from the ESC to the Motor. Can I also run 16 gauge from the ESC to Battery. I have heard of some people running 13 gauge for battery wire. The motor will be either 17.5 or 13.5 with a Tekin RS.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:42 PM   #2583
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Since the discussion has been about wire. I have a question. I am setting up a 12 L4 right now I will be running 16 gauge from the ESC to the Motor. Can I also run 16 gauge from the ESC to Battery. I have heard of some people running 13 gauge for battery wire. The motor will be either 17.5 or 13.5 with a Tekin RS.
If you are running 4 cell NIMH or 1s lipo, 16 gauge is fine for all 5 wires.
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Old 11-09-2010, 04:33 PM   #2584
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In terms of power delivery I wouldn't be surprised if I couldn't tell the difference between 16 and 18 g wire for all 5 wires in a no timing 17.5 class. I use 16 gauge for the motor because it is easily available and I use 12 gauge for the battery because it stands up to plugging in and out over and over better. I don't run a switch and just unplug my car to turn it off. I'd rather not introduce one more point of potential failure, and its a good habit for me to unplug my battery after each run. I just saw a picture of dumpers WGT with a 10.5 that looks like it was 16 gauge on the + and then like 18 gauge on the - battery terminal. Might have been 14 and 16 though..
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 11-09-2010 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:37 PM   #2585
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I thought about running 18 gauge for the motor wires. I am going for a clean tidy free look and thought 18 gauge would be easier to run.






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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
In terms of power delivery I wouldn't be surprised if I couldn't tell the difference between 16 and 18 g wire for all 5 wires. I use 16 gauge for the motor because it is easily available and I use 12 gauge for the battery because it stands up to plugging in and out over and over better. I don't run a switch and just unplug my car to turn it off. I'd rather not introduce one more point of potential failure, and its a good habit for me to unplug my battery after each run. I just saw a picture of dumpers WGT with a 10.5 that looks like it was 16 gauge on the + and then like 18 gauge on the - battery terminal. Might have been 14 and 16 though..
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:20 PM   #2586
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Hey Mike,

I am back running 1/12th for the first time since 1998.
I feel quite green actually...
I am currently running the TQ 13 gauge cable, my 12R5.1 handles great, but do you suggest I switch to 16 gauge?

Also, what wind and what size rotor will you recomend for Mod?
I am currently running a 4.5t with a 12.5mm rotor.
I have a 12.3mm rotor on order.


Thanks for any advice guys.

Eirik Andreassen
Hey Erik,

13 guage tq is fine since it is so flexy, this is what i use at the moment, As for motors, I am using a 4.0 with the stock 12.5 mm rotor, but some of the guys use the 12.0 mm rotor. I personally like the car to slow down more getting into the corner without using drag brake.

Hope this helps

Mike
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Old 11-11-2010, 01:43 PM   #2587
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Originally Posted by Mike Blackstock View Post
Hey Erik,

13 guage tq is fine since it is so flexy, this is what i use at the moment, As for motors, I am using a 4.0 with the stock 12.5 mm rotor, but some of the guys use the 12.0 mm rotor. I personally like the car to slow down more getting into the corner without using drag brake.

Hope this helps

Mike
Thanks for answering Mike, that was really nice!

Today I went to the track and tested both TQ 16 gauge and 13 gauge.
I could not really notice any difference at all.
I really thought I would notice some difference and that the speedo would run a little cooler with the thicker wire, but it was exactly the same.

So I will now use the 16 gauge as it's lighter and flexier :0)

Thanks again,
Eirik
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:31 PM   #2588
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Most of us in sydney are now running the TQ wire. 13 gauge is probably the best but we are running mod 1s in our 12ths.

I think one of the guys had issues running mod 1s the other day and was desoldering of wires with 16 gauge.

If im not mistaken, the wiring will get hot if the gauge is too low.
Although it can also get hot because of the speedie. Epsecially on the tekin as it uses the solder posts as the heat sinks. For touring car i think tekin recommend thicker gauges to help cool the esc more, but obviously thats not so practical with our cars.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:15 PM   #2589
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Default Tweak a 12r5

Hey Mike,
I was wondering how you tweak your car? Do you unhook the side shock?
Thanks and God Bless
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:34 PM   #2590
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Is the LRP SXX v2 wires considered flexible? What is the gauge that it comes with?
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Old 11-13-2010, 12:13 AM   #2591
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Is the LRP SXX v2 wires considered flexible? What is the gauge that it comes with?
They are 12 gauge and as stiff as it gets.
I will recomend a smaller flexier wire like the TQ Racing ones.
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:04 AM   #2592
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Hey guys, just putting in a LRP SXX V2 speedo into my new R5.1, and wanted to know if I will need the reciever bat pack??? or one of those boosters?? I will be running a 4 turn x12 motor and 1s LIPO 5600mah. (will this battery be enough)

I havnt run a 12th scale since my RC12L3 back in 2001, and back then we used a 7.2v 6 cell battery, with 16 and 17 turn brushed motors. So im quite new to this whole low volt, low motor wind system.

Any info would be great!
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:39 AM   #2593
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appreciate the feedback... still waiting on the pinion to show up so i havent gotten to run it.

ill take a look for a countersink screw for that shock.

not sure how to route that sensor wire elsewhere.. through the pod? theres just excess wire..
is 16gauge that much softer?


to the other person asking.. i just used shoegoo and a clamp to hold the capacitors down over night.. it dried nice and clear.. cant really see any of the glue.


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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Monkee.

A few suggestions

On the upper pod plate there should be a countersink screw for the side shock, not a button head screw.

You may want to find some 16g wire for the motor leads, and route your sensor wire away from the motor leads.

Also TQ and LRP make more flexible sensor wires in different lengths.

One of the places you can find that at is at Nexus

You want the pod to move as free as possible in 12th scale.
Heavy stiff wires are unnecessary, and a hindrance to handling.

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Old 11-13-2010, 08:02 AM   #2594
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Monkee

Yes 16g is MUCH more flexible

Attached is a pic of Ronald Volkers' R5.1 from the Worlds this year for options on routing wires.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:05 AM   #2595
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Originally Posted by nathanc View Post
Hey guys, just putting in a LRP SXX V2 speedo into my new R5.1, and wanted to know if I will need the reciever bat pack??? or one of those boosters?? I will be running a 4 turn x12 motor and 1s LIPO 5600mah. (will this battery be enough)

I havnt run a 12th scale since my RC12L3 back in 2001, and back then we used a 7.2v 6 cell battery, with 16 and 17 turn brushed motors. So im quite new to this whole low volt, low motor wind system.

Any info would be great!
With the SXX V2 you will not need any boosters or RX pack. That speedo has the twin BEC for single cell lipo use. I have one as well. Your pack should be good too.

Steve
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