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Old 09-28-2010, 03:52 PM   #2416
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
You should loosen your diff just a tad until the diff isn't rough, and then break the diff in by holding one wheel and applying light throttle, then holding the other wheel and applying throttle. Slowly tighten the diff again.
Thanks for the reply.

I should correct my last post, the "problem" starts when the spur is not even close to tight but somewhat 3/4 way in until it is.

And it is not rough, best i could describe is like turning a motor. Its smooth but you get these humps

I will try your suggestion.

Thanks
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:55 PM   #2417
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Stormer Hobbies will be stocking On-Point Racing products soon. http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0


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Just got my 12r5.1 Lipo chassis. I'm really impressed with the quality of this CF, and I am really picky. I did some brief comparisons between the regular 12r5.1 chassis and this new and improved one. Here's the break down . . .

-Both are 2.5 mm thick
-Stock is 50g vs 58g for the lipo version (its nice to have the weight down low)
-The new chassis is drilled for both the popular JR and Futaba servos (on the same side)
-The new chassis is drilled to locate the servo 3 mm farther forward, where I normally locate my servo anyway with spacers.
-The new chassis widens the front end out about 2mm for stability.
-It looks like the new chassis is drilled to accept CRC lipo locators and allow you to move the battery fore/aft.
-There is a center hole drilled at the rear of the main chassis for those who like to balance just the chassis.
-The new chassis is about 3 mm narrower than the stock chassis without adjusting the geometry.

Can't wait to get some electronics in this thing and see it carving up the carpet.
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:57 PM   #2418
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Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
Thanks for the reply.

I should correct my last post, the "problem" starts when the spur is not even close to tight but somewhat 3/4 way in until it is.

And it is not rough, best i could describe is like turning a motor. Its smooth but you get these humps

I will try your suggestion.

Thanks

If it doesn't work, then it might be a bad bearing. Usually, when one of the bearing goes bad, it feels like a thumping as you describe. Trying swapping out one bearing at a time with the bearing in one of the ride height adjusters until you find out which of the bearings is bad.
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:01 PM   #2419
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Associated RC12R5

Just got my 12r5.1 Lipo chassis. I'm really impressed with the quality of this CF, and I am really picky. I did some brief comparisons between the regular 12r5.1 chassis and this new and improved one. Here's the break down . . .

-Both are 2.5 mm thick
-Stock is 50g vs 58g for the lipo version (its nice to have the weight down low)
-The new chassis is drilled for both the popular JR and Futaba servos (on the same side)
-The new chassis is drilled to locate the servo 3 mm farther forward, where I normally locate my servo anyway with spacers.
-The new chassis widens the front end out about 2mm for stability.
-It looks like the new chassis is drilled to accept CRC lipo locators and allow you to move the battery fore/aft.
-There is a center hole drilled at the rear of the main chassis for those who like to balance just the chassis.
-The new chassis is about 3 mm narrower than the stock chassis without adjusting the geometry.

Can't wait to get some electronics in this thing and see it carving up the carpet.
Take some pictures. I'm really interested to see how the CRC lipo locators work with this as it's difficult to tell anything from the drawing.

Also is the front end 2mm wider and the rest of the chassis 3mm narrower?
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:05 PM   #2420
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
If it doesn't work, then it might be a bad bearing. Usually, when one of the bearing goes bad, it feels like a thumping as you describe. Trying swapping out one bearing at a time with the bearing in one of the ride height adjusters until you find out which of the bearings is bad.
When i take off the wheel its all fine even when the spur is tight so i think its the wheel. It fits tight over the cone spacer/collar. I'm using Xceed wheel/tires.

I try to enlarge it a bit and should be fine
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:48 PM   #2421
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Take some pictures. I'm really interested to see how the CRC lipo locators work with this as it's difficult to tell anything from the drawing.

Also is the front end 2mm wider and the rest of the chassis 3mm narrower?
The front end holes are 2mm wider per side and the chassis is wider there to give more support outside of the holes.

Where the links attach to the chassis the chassis is 1.5mm narrower per side and where the battery goes is 2.75mm narrower per side.

Here is a picture if the battery holders on the chassis.
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:48 PM   #2422
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Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
I just built the diff for my kit, I tightened it bit by bit and checking the spur slip in between. As it is tightened to the point where it is close to stop slipping, it starts to feel like there are spots tighter and spots looser when I turn the wheel in opposite directions. As it turns it feels like ....bump....bump....bump.... its not gritty or anything, it feels smooth.

I sanded the plates in circular motion with 600 wet/dry paper. The rest as the manual says.

Any idea why this is happening? Do i need to run it in by applying low voltage?

Thanks!
Sounds like your diff rings aren't flat. I'd keep sanding them.
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:56 PM   #2423
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I never sand my rings. I just take them straight out of the package/clean them and I can't remember the last time I had a lump in the diff. I would be looking for another culprit if it were me... Maybe a mis-threaded diff nut?
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:01 PM   #2424
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Originally Posted by On-Point Racing View Post
The front end holes are 2mm wider per side and the chassis is wider there to give more support outside of the holes.

Where the links attach to the chassis the chassis is 1.5mm narrower per side and where the battery goes is 2.75mm narrower per side.

Here is a picture if the battery holders on the chassis.
A-ha! Now the hole patterns make sense. Thanks for the photo. Might have to pick one up.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:19 PM   #2425
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I never sand my rings. I just take them straight out of the package/clean them and I can't remember the last time I had a lump in the diff. I would be looking for another culprit if it were me... Maybe a mis-threaded diff nut?
I use to say that until I had the exact same thing happen to me. The diff was butter smooth, it just had a tight spot. The fact that he says the diff is not gritty, that eliminates the balls and bearings. But you make a good point. It could be a diff nut. What ever it is, it is something that is making the diff rings not perfectly parallel. So either the diff rings aren't flat or something is putting un even pressure on it.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:27 PM   #2426
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I use to say that until I had the exact same thing happen to me. The diff was butter smooth, it just had a tight spot. The fact that he says the diff is not gritty, that eliminates the balls and bearings. But you make a good point. It could be a diff nut. What ever it is, it is something that is making the diff rings not perfectly parallel. So either the diff rings aren't flat or something is putting un even pressure on it.
I have found that it was the wheel. The centre hole is a snug fit over the rim of the blue cone (that the nut tightens on) and the cone doesn't spin 100% true over the shaft so the high spot rubs with the wheel hole causing the thumps.

Thanks guys.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:36 PM   #2427
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awesome. What kind of wheel are you using?
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:37 PM   #2428
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awesome. What kind of wheel are you using?
Xceed lightweights
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:26 PM   #2429
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Originally Posted by On-Point Racing View Post
The front end holes are 2mm wider per side and the chassis is wider there to give more support outside of the holes.

Where the links attach to the chassis the chassis is 1.5mm narrower per side and where the battery goes is 2.75mm narrower per side.

Here is a picture if the battery holders on the chassis.

Lets get off this super wide page...

I built a little on the new chassis tonight. The first thing that hit me was how perfect the countersinks are. I hate when the screws stick out from the chassis bottom or get swallowed up by over zealous (read weakened) countersinks. The on-point chassis countersinks sit the screws just a fraction below the chassis surface.

Rear pod and links lined up perfect along with all the other screw holes.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:46 AM   #2430
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So, I've been working on this car for a few day's now, but I'm starting to like it. The Sensor Cable en TQ-Booster still need to be switched for a "better" solution, but I can start now .





I tried something new with the carbon:




Regards

Robert
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