R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-17-2010, 10:00 PM   #2401
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 276
Default

For the side link, unlike the old days you polish the steel ball for the t-bar car. Just need to use a small flat head and ply the slot open slightly and it will move freely. As the new balls have a hardened coating I don't think it is a good idea to polish them. For the center shock you can use the ball end to adjust the droop of the rear pod. Some people prefer to run the car flat when the wheels are sitting on the ground. But I prefer to run with the rear pod (measure for the rear) around 0.25mm lower than the chassis (measure from the side closest to the motor pod). It seems to give the rear end a little more grip. Front end balls just use a plier and pull the front arm slightly. The front arm is quite hard but don't pull too hard or you will end up with too much play. The kingpin I just use a arm reamer to enlarge the hole slightly. Servo mount I just flip the servo and drill two new holes. Makes it much easier than making a slot. I had been away from 1/12 for almost 10 years too. Just get back into it around 1 year ago and still think 1/12 is one of the best, if not the best r/c.
__________________
http://www.gpm-parts.com
gpm-parts.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2010, 02:25 AM   #2402
Tech Addict
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Netherlands, Sweet Lake City
Posts: 500
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjoer View Post
Hmm I just did a marathon read through the first 80 pages of this thread, a few of my questions have been answered in that. Other stuff also looks pretty recognisable. In addition to the above post:

- The kingpins slightly bind in the lower suspension arms balls as well. As of now however, they're not dampened yet with high viscosity 1/8th scale diff fluid/kingpin lube. Ordered it, still has to arrive. I may give this some attention when I rebuild the front. Polish them maybe.

I Polish them alway's, makes the front end way smoother!. I use the Associated Stealth Grease to grease the pin's.

- The steering servo is slightly offset from the center (Ko Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS ICS 6.0V Digital FET Servo). This first became apparent when I was doing the initial setup, I had to use different turnbuckle lengths for neutral toe, with the servo saver sitting straight up. Having read through half this thread it came by. Still have to find a way to accurately measure it, probably from the bottom. So, I'm supposed to fix this by slotting the servo mounting holes in the chassis? Not the easiest of machining by hand I'm afraid .

And that's why I always tape my Servo in my car. It's a real "no-go" when the servo is not inline. Use TOP double sided tape, or Gamma Car-Tape, I'll try Parma Servo tape in my 12th scale

- During assembly I also noticed the outer right hub ball bearing has to transfer the axial diff load force, how many guys changed this setup to use an actual thrust bearing? If needed at all, the design should work as it is, shouldn't it?

I Drive a Slapmaster Diff for about 4 years now. That thing is almost indestructable. And it saves a lot bearings of your diff.

- I still have to check tweak. No clue yet how to properly do this, though to be honest I haven't really looked it up yet either. I guess there are plenty of topics of this around. I doubt its far off, considering how electronics are placed (pictures dated 20100916 in the url from my signature).

You know the way with the two coins on the front wheels. (If nog pm me :-)) I Like that one the most. I've also used a tweakboard, but I'm not really sure about that.

- In relation to the above, its hard to check if the preload of both side springs is the same. The retainer being made from plastic doesn't seem to help, it doesn't seem very consistent/accurate.

What you just called is "setting tweak". The preload will never be the same for the full 100%. But tweaking the car will bring the preload close. I've used the plastic retainers al the time, but now I have the Yokomo Blue Aluminium ones. I hope these will hold the side springs better

I've driven the car for the first time last thursday, at the local track. First time I drove any RC car since 11 years, was fun. First run I probably had way too much steering travel, inner wheel probably hooked. I reduced it to 67%, I might dial it to 80% next week. (100% being the wheel being 3mm off the lower suspension arm/2mm off the steering turnbuckle ball joint). Also, the track being rather small with alot of 180 degree turns, people adviced me to use drag brake, which I'm not really keen on using to be honest. It would be an easy way to consistantly brake for the tight turns. However, In my opinion, on larger tracks, one would like to be able to roll the car through high speed sweeping sections, brake manually for tight turns, am I right? I think I'd rather learn to drive "the right way" so it won't bite me back in the ass if I'll try and do some races elsewhere. I still have to replace the default ESC wires with some black 13AWG TQ ones or so. I had the impression the ones displayed were preventing the pod from moving freely, causing the car to snap to the right under acceleration at times. I think they hit the body. I also need to get a 150mm sensor cable. Apart from that, so far though, building went fine, the car ran great . I just looked up the Jaco site, just ordered the fronts and rears in the middle of the lists (lilac front/gray rear). I soaked the rears, the inner half of the fronts. Didn't really hit anything hard, but for convenience, I might buy a second kit for spare parts.

What track did you go to? PK Racing? Try to set a 1 Meter long turning circle (or a little bit more) that's what I normally use. I never use dragbrake, and alos never use the brake (only when there's a crash or something ahead ;-)) But I do like the "dragbrake" of the LRP X12 motors, compaired to the Speed Passion ones.

Grmbl, I'm still not yet allowed to post url's or images. Was gonna post images of the car being fininished from building. Some images are up in the url from my signature, including a few from building (20100916 dated being finished).
Maybe I can post some?

Ruud awnsers are in red ;-)

Greets Robert
__________________
Sponsored by: Schumacher Racing and Dualsky
Supported by: Shepherd Benelux and Thunder Tiger.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2010, 04:07 AM   #2403
Tech Initiate
 
kjoer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Venlo, The Netherlands
Posts: 23
Send a message via ICQ to kjoer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Maybe I can post some?

Ruud awnsers are in red ;-)

Greets Robert
lmao Robert, you're everywhere! :) Thanks. No I don't know the coin trick yet, although I think it was used 20 years ago too :). I'd have to look where to get the Yokomo spring retainers. No I didn't go to PK, I went here.

edit: picture 1, picture 2
__________________
Team Associated 12R5.1 / PROTOform AMR-12 / MobGums / LRP Vector X12 / LRP SXX Version 2 / LRP LiPo 5400 50C / KO Propo EX-10 Eurus / KO Propo PDS-951ICS / MYLAPS RC4 / Graupner Ultra Duo Plus 50
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rzavelli/stuff/rc_cars/
http://www.youtube.com/user/kjoer?feature=mhee

Last edited by kjoer; 09-19-2010 at 07:13 AM.
kjoer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2010, 06:53 AM   #2404
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Poland, Warsaw
Posts: 773
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi!

Change wires to 16AWG will be much better!

__________________
Michal Abramowicz
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
My setups there -> http://www.rc-setups.com
TC6!, TC5R, 12L4, 12R5.1, 10L2, 10R5, RC8T_CE_EL custom F1 chassis
http://www.wgtshop.com/
M.Abramowicz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2010, 03:28 AM   #2405
Tech Addict
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Netherlands, Sweet Lake City
Posts: 500
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

For Kjoer:





Greets Robert
__________________
Sponsored by: Schumacher Racing and Dualsky
Supported by: Shepherd Benelux and Thunder Tiger.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2010, 08:12 PM   #2406
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 675
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Hi there, I was wondering what would be a good rollout to start with on a 1S Tekin RS + Redline 17.5 motor boosted on an indoor carpet track about 35' x 85' ?

Been reading around anywhere from 80-110 mm

Thanks!
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2010, 08:44 PM   #2407
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,773
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

I don't think anyone can honestly give much closer of a figure without knowing the grip level at your track and your esc settings. If it were me I would start at that 80 mm and then check temps and adjust. 110 sounds awfully high to me for a 17.5 motor with boost on a smaller track.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 12:08 AM   #2408
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjoer View Post
lmao Robert, you're everywhere! Thanks. No I don't know the coin trick yet, although I think it was used 20 years ago too . I'd have to look where to get the Yokomo spring retainers. No I didn't go to PK, I went here.

edit: picture 1, picture 2
Dont know if its just me.

I find the coin trick is very inaccurate with a 1s lipo in the car. The lipo doesnt have enough weight for it to work effectively.
I used to put an old 4 cell nimh pack in the car or some extra weights ontop of the battery (although that second option is not exactly ideal).


BLEAH, i hate it when people post BIG pictures.....
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 05:54 AM   #2409
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 53
Default R5 Lipo Ready Chassis!!

On-Point Racing presents

R5 Lipo Ready Chassis!!

Features that differ from the stock chassis:

*Solid chassis for more corner speed and consistent handling
*wider front end spacing for an easier to drive car
*2 battery positions for fine tuning, battery is supported by CRC3373
*JR and Futaba/KO servo holes

Any inquiries or pricing information please email info@onpointracing.com or PM on R/C tech
Attached Thumbnails
Associated RC12R5-r5lipo.jpg  
__________________
On-Point Racing info@onpointracing.com
On-Point Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 12:17 AM   #2410
Tech Regular
 
darrenoakley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 266
Default

Just raced the 12r5 for the 3rd time 17.5 duo 2 Tekin rs rollout 87.5 mmpr temp was after 5mins 66 deg. Cant believe how well this thing is dialled. Last night I had one of the closest meeting ever, flat out chasing for position all night really hard work but great fun too. finished second but only by 000.24 sec between first and second place . 1s lipo is down to 3.50 v after 5 mins though.
Bomber R shell worked well on our tight and twisty track loads of high speed steering.
__________________
Xray x11
Xray T3 011
darrenoakley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 05:27 PM   #2411
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 675
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I just got my R5.1 which is also my first 1/12th scale so I got some questions regarding the build.

How do you guys loosen up the pivot balls? All four of the composite balls on my front bulkhead arms are really tight, I already added a drop of silicone as instructed but it doesn't seem like something lubrication would fix. The kingpins are also tight to slide through the balls. I used a pair of pliers to snap the balls in if that would matter).

As for the steering knuckle, I noticed that the design for it just "floats" on the kingpins, but when built the knuckles are a bit of a tight fit over the pins, should they be smooth to travel up and down on the pin or just tight fitting like it is now?

Should I work on the fitting of these parts or am I worrying too much? 'cuz from my understanding they should be reasonably smooth to work properly.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks!
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2010, 12:00 PM   #2412
Tech Regular
 
revo523's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NOLA!
Posts: 466
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, I will be running a 12r5 with a 19t motor. What spur,pinion should i start with?
__________________
Xray T2 009 EU Tekin RS PRO Novak 13.5 SMC 5200
Team Magic G4JS O.S.12 skyline 12plus
Spektrum DX3S

What came first the chicken or the egg?
revo523 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2010, 11:39 AM   #2413
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Stormer Hobbies will be stocking On-Point Racing products soon. http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2010, 03:43 PM   #2414
Tech Addict
 
rc_square24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 675
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I just built the diff for my kit, I tightened it bit by bit and checking the spur slip in between. As it is tightened to the point where it is close to stop slipping, it starts to feel like there are spots tighter and spots looser when I turn the wheel in opposite directions. As it turns it feels like ....bump....bump....bump.... its not gritty or anything, it feels smooth.

I sanded the plates in circular motion with 600 wet/dry paper. The rest as the manual says.

Any idea why this is happening? Do i need to run it in by applying low voltage?

Thanks!
rc_square24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2010, 03:45 PM   #2415
Tech Addict
 
bfong13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 611
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
I just built the diff for my kit, I tightened it bit by bit and checking the spur slip in between. As it is tightened to the point where it is close to stop slipping, it starts to feel like there are spots tighter and spots looser when I turn the wheel in opposite directions. As it turns it feels like ....bump....bump....bump.... its not gritty or anything, it feels smooth.

I sanded the plates in circular motion with 600 wet/dry paper. The rest as the manual says.

Any idea why this is happening? Do i need to run it in by applying low voltage?

Thanks!


You should loosen your diff just a tad until the diff isn't rough, and then break the diff in by holding one wheel and applying light throttle, then holding the other wheel and applying throttle. Slowly tighten the diff again.
bfong13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
*Team Associated RC12R5* Zdiddy R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 08-31-2008 12:03 PM
RC12R5 Setup Sheets Cubic$Racing Electric On-Road 2 06-20-2008 10:27 AM
Team Associated RC12R5 ammo Singapore R/C Racers 12 05-15-2008 08:37 AM
AE RC12R5 alana07 Singapore R/C Racers 3 03-27-2008 09:56 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:00 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net