R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-07-2010, 09:36 AM   #2251
Tech Elite
 
pakk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,077
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default Kingpin lube

When I assembled my car, I don't remember putting any type of lube on my kingpin. As I go back to the directions, I confirm this, and don't see anything about it.

But as I look through setup sheets, I see it mentioned.

Do you just apply a thin coat of shock fluid to the kingpin? For those of you with 10r5's, do you do it the same way to that car?
__________________
*Photon* *SC10 4x4*
RCRD
pakk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2010, 01:35 PM   #2252
Tech Fanatic
 
hotdognobun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 823
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Yokomo Brace for sale on thread
hotdognobun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2010, 02:55 PM   #2253
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdognobun View Post
Yokomo Brace for sale on thread
How much?
thunderdaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2010, 03:08 PM   #2254
Tech Fanatic
 
hotdognobun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 823
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderdaddy View Post
How much?
$35.00
hotdognobun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2010, 03:09 PM   #2255
Tech Fanatic
 
hotdognobun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 823
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderdaddy View Post
How much?
Just Sold it
hotdognobun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2010, 07:28 PM   #2256
Tech Elite
 
spring71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 3,886
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Hi, racers.

New carpet track just opened in Chino California.

90'X45' CRC Carpet, perfect for 1/12 scale

Visit www.tqrcracing.com for more information.

__________________
TQ RC RACING
Indoor RC Race Track & Hobby Shop in Chino, CA
Online Shop
http://www.tqrcracing.com
[email protected]
spring71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2010, 09:03 PM   #2257
Tech Initiate
 
halfempty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 40
Default

Question on adjusting the ackerman : Would no spacers equal more steering? Using all spacers equal less? Or do i have this all wrong?
halfempty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 10:11 AM   #2258
Tech Elite
 
Maybell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,109
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default 12R5.1 Wins European Championships!

Congrats Juho on the big win!
__________________
Sean Maybell - Team Associated Region 11 Administrator

AE - Reedy - LRP - Hobby Velocity - XP Digital - JConcepts
Maybell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 12:39 PM   #2259
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 853
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Just built up a new R5.1 (coming from a BMI DB12R), and I'm having a problem with the rear end of the car sliding out on-power.
  • I've checked the car for tweak and adjusted the side springs accordingly.
  • I've replaced the side springs.
  • My diff is butter smooth (and I tried running it both tight and loose.. same problem)
  • My front end is not binding anywhere that I could find
  • Tires are equal diameter left and right
  • Car's weight is pretty much balanced left to right (I can balance it on balance buttons)
  • The pod moves freely in all directions

We're racing on asphalt that's treated with sugar water, and at low throttle the car is fine, but anywhere above 1/4 throttle and the rear end just sweeps out from under the car and it spins. I've never had any other 12th scale do this and it's frustrating as hell. It almost has me wishing I hadn't switched rides. Any suggestions?
Serzoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 12:45 PM   #2260
Tech Elite
 
Maybell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,109
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
Just built up a new R5.1 (coming from a BMI DB12R), and I'm having a problem with the rear end of the car sliding out on-power.
  • I've checked the car for tweak and adjusted the side springs accordingly.
  • I've replaced the side springs.
  • My diff is butter smooth (and I tried running it both tight and loose.. same problem)
  • My front end is not binding anywhere that I could find
  • Tires are equal diameter left and right
  • Car's weight is pretty much balanced left to right (I can balance it on balance buttons)
  • The pod moves freely in all directions

We're racing on asphalt that's treated with sugar water, and at low throttle the car is fine, but anywhere above 1/4 throttle and the rear end just sweeps out from under the car and it spins. I've never had any other 12th scale do this and it's frustrating as hell. It almost has me wishing I hadn't switched rides. Any suggestions?
How free is your pod? The rear pod balls should be as free as the steering ball cups on the ball studs. What tire size stagger are you running? I know you are frustrated, but remember that this car is the world champ, and on asphalt. There is obviously something wrong that can be fixed. I will help dial you in, even if we have to talk on the phone to figure this out.
__________________
Sean Maybell - Team Associated Region 11 Administrator

AE - Reedy - LRP - Hobby Velocity - XP Digital - JConcepts
Maybell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 01:35 PM   #2261
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 853
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Don't get me wrong.. I didn't mean to come across like it might have seemed (sorry). When I originally bought my BMI, it was a decision between it and this car. Due to having practically a lifetime's supply of parts for the oldschool front end and the BMI being developed primarily for asphalt, it won in the decision back then. Just weeks later the original R5 won the worlds on asphalt and I was shaking my head with a big "doh!". Now I've moved back to AE and just wanting to get this thing sorted. I know it's a new car and has quirks to work out, but going from a car that was totally planted to one that I can't even get down the main straight with is pretty frustrating, as I'm sure you can imagine. Anyways..

I'll have to check my tire diameters when I get home, but sitting on the bench my chassis rides level with the racing surface, so there's no rake. The center chassis pivot ball is VERY free (I tightened the two socket screws until the heads just bottomed out on the socket), and for the side links they're somewhat free, but not as free as a ballcup/balljoint. When I was putting the screws into the side link, I just screwed them in until the heads were touching the link just as I did on the center football. There's no slop in them, but they definitely aren't as free as you mentioned. I remember on my old CRC carpet knife that they were that free, but on that car the links WERE ballcups/joints.


Other than this one frustrating issue, I'm already in love with the car (the spacious rear pod and the new front end especially).
Serzoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 01:48 PM   #2262
Tech Elite
 
Maybell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,109
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
Don't get me wrong.. I didn't mean to come across like it might have seemed (sorry). When I originally bought my BMI, it was a decision between it and this car. Due to having practically a lifetime's supply of parts for the oldschool front end and the BMI being developed primarily for asphalt, it won in the decision back then. Just weeks later the original R5 won the worlds on asphalt and I was shaking my head with a big "doh!". Now I've moved back to AE and just wanting to get this thing sorted. I know it's a new car and has quirks to work out, but going from a car that was totally planted to one that I can't even get down the main straight with is pretty frustrating, as I'm sure you can imagine. Anyways..

I'll have to check my tire diameters when I get home, but sitting on the bench my chassis rides level with the racing surface, so there's no rake. The center chassis pivot ball is VERY free (I tightened the two socket screws until the heads just bottomed out on the socket), and for the side links they're somewhat free, but not as free as a ballcup/balljoint. When I was putting the screws into the side link, I just screwed them in until the heads were touching the link just as I did on the center football. There's no slop in them, but they definitely aren't as free as you mentioned. I remember on my old CRC carpet knife that they were that free, but on that car the links WERE ballcups/joints.


Other than this one frustrating issue, I'm already in love with the car (the spacious rear pod and the new front end especially).
I agree, the front end is such a cool design. It sounds like your pod is free enough. You can squeeze the side link ends with pliers to create a little slop and this frees them up even more. How much side-spring preload are you running. Check out post #2193 of this tread for tips on setting the preload. I am very interested in what tires and tire sizes you have on your car, so please get back to me on that. What front reactive angle are you running? I recommend starting with 5 or maybe zero.
__________________
Sean Maybell - Team Associated Region 11 Administrator

AE - Reedy - LRP - Hobby Velocity - XP Digital - JConcepts
Maybell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 02:34 PM   #2263
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 853
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Just got home from work, so here's the final setup I ended up trying on the car before I packed up and called it a day-

Front End
Springs-.020"
20k diff fluid on the kingpins
10 degrees reactive caster
3.25 degrees of static caster
-1.5 degrees of camber
0 degrees of toe
large ackerman spacer on servo mounts
no bumpsteer spacers
6mm ride height
162 mm width
Parma Pro 38 Purple @ 45mm diameter

Rear End
25wt center shock oil
Silver center spring
20wt side shock oil
green side springs
1.5 turns of preload once the springs touched the side links
center shock mount - top hole in front, and stock spacer under rear ballcup
2mm droop (over ride-height method)
6mm ride height
172mm width
Parma Pro 38 Magenta @ 47.25mm diameter

Electronics
Futaba 9650 servo
4-cell GTB (replacing with a Tekin RS this week)
Speedzone 5000mah 50c lipo
Battery forward
Novak SS 10.5
gearing - 35/88

Last edited by Serzoni; 03-08-2010 at 02:45 PM.
Serzoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 03:03 PM   #2264
Tech Elite
 
Maybell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,109
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
Just got home from work, so here's the final setup I ended up trying on the car before I packed up and called it a day-

Front End
Springs-.020"
20k diff fluid on the kingpins
10 degrees reactive caster
3.25 degrees of static caster
-1.5 degrees of camber
0 degrees of toe
large ackerman spacer on servo mounts
no bumpsteer spacers
6mm ride height
162 mm width
Parma Pro 38 Purple @ 45mm diameter

Rear End
25wt center shock oil
Silver center spring
20wt side shock oil
green side springs
1.5 turns of preload once the springs touched the side links
center shock mount - top hole in front, and stock spacer under rear ballcup
2mm droop (over ride-height method)
6mm ride height
172mm width
Parma Pro 38 Magenta @ 47.25mm diameter

Electronics
Futaba 9650 servo
4-cell GTB (replacing with a Tekin RS this week)
Speedzone 5000mah 50c lipo
Battery forward
Novak SS 10.5
gearing - 35/88
Your setup looks pretty good. The next time you go to the track, try 5 degree reactive and pink rear tires. Try 1mm of pod droop. I like to make the width of my car 1mm wider on all 4 corners. In other words, shim the front lower arms 1mm wider, and use 1mm worth of extra shims on each side of the rear axle. The thing is, my setup is based on the offset of Jaco Prism wheels...you may want to consider going to Prisms or Parma Blackhawks. That would make life easier.
__________________
Sean Maybell - Team Associated Region 11 Administrator

AE - Reedy - LRP - Hobby Velocity - XP Digital - JConcepts

Last edited by Maybell; 03-08-2010 at 03:29 PM.
Maybell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2010, 04:43 PM   #2265
Tech Regular
 
Jsaves's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Montana
Posts: 494
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Maybell,
What kind of rebound to center should a person expect when checking tweak on a tweak station? Should a person expect the bubble to return to center when you push one side of the tweak bar and then push down on the center spring connection to the rear pod? I am wondering if I am expecting to much or do I have a binding issue.
Thanks for your reply and time
God Bless
__________________
Proud member of Magic City RC Racers
Magic City R/C (Facebook)
CRC GT-R
CRC WTF-1
Jsaves is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
*Team Associated RC12R5* Zdiddy R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 08-31-2008 12:03 PM
RC12R5 Setup Sheets Cubic$Racing Electric On-Road 2 06-20-2008 10:27 AM
Team Associated RC12R5 ammo Singapore R/C Racers 12 05-15-2008 08:37 AM
AE RC12R5 alana07 Singapore R/C Racers 3 03-27-2008 09:56 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:50 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net