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Old 12-06-2009, 09:45 AM   #1921
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I have had a little issue with the shock end fitting, other then that the car on the track doesn't lie, it's a performer, for me thats the bottom line.
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Old 12-06-2009, 07:00 PM   #1922
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Just picked one of these kits up, anyone have good a 17.5 set-up?
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:46 PM   #1923
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im having a problem getting my 12r5 balanced left to right Im using digital scales and I have to put so much lr preload into it to get the front even and then it makes the car drive off the rear tire with more weight. I dont know if I should preload the front springs differently to make it even or do something different.

Thanks
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Old 12-07-2009, 12:20 AM   #1924
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im having a problem getting my 12r5 balanced left to right Im using digital scales and I have to put so much lr preload into it to get the front even and then it makes the car drive off the rear tire with more weight. I dont know if I should preload the front springs differently to make it even or do something different.

Thanks
I am also having the same problem with my 12R5. Using digital scale under each individual tire, my right rear is off by 40 grams when running brushless. I am thinking of shifting the ESC etc to counter-balance the weight. Is it recommended to balance the rear pod weight when using BL or just balance the chassis left-right weight without considering the rear pod?
Another thing, any recommendation in term of front-to-rear weight bias (40/60 or 30/70 or...)? What are you guys seeing when using 1s Lipo with BL?
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:18 AM   #1925
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I am also having the same problem with my 12R5. Using digital scale under each individual tire, my right rear is off by 40 grams when running brushless. I am thinking of shifting the ESC etc to counter-balance the weight. Is it recommended to balance the rear pod weight when using BL or just balance the chassis left-right weight without considering the rear pod?
Another thing, any recommendation in term of front-to-rear weight bias (40/60 or 30/70 or...)? What are you guys seeing when using 1s Lipo with BL?
If you have the standard r5 then you will have issues with balancing the rear pod with a brushless motor. The motor is about 3mm to the left of the idea position.
You can fit the 10r5 top and bottom carbon pod pieces. This will center the motor more and allow you to balance the pod. Or even upgrade to a 5.1 pod.
Moving the ESC or using the side springs to correct this plays havoc with the tweak
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:07 AM   #1926
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has anyone noticed the reedy 1s pack is heavier on the non terminal side. im having trouble balancing the car as it wants more weight on left side. im using irs balance buttons maybe there is a better way what is everyones method of balancing the 12r5.1 thanx
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Old 12-07-2009, 12:30 PM   #1927
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Just picked one of these kits up, anyone have good a 17.5 set-up?
John,
You can try teamassociated.com. If memory is correct you would choose racing -> setups which would bring you to a screen where you can then choose car type and factory driver. I haven't checked them all to see if there is a 17.5 specific set-up but you should be able to get a decent starting point. I think Mike Blackstock posts help in their forums so that may be a good resource as well. The way you were driving your TC yesterday I have no doubt you will have the 12R dialed in no time.

Later,
Chuck
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:18 PM   #1928
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Just wanted to say that after contacting Associated regarding the part fitting problems with my new 5.1, they are sending out replacement parts to try and see if that cures it. After looking into the main problem at the front end, it looks like the holes for the balls in the lower arm are too small. This is clamping the ball and making it tight. This in turn is making the ball clamp onto the kingpin, again, making that action very tight. Hopefully the replacement parts will arrive and will all fit just fine! Anyway, credit where credit's due, the guy at AE was helpful so we'll see how it pans out.
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:08 PM   #1929
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Just wanted to say that after contacting Associated regarding the part fitting problems with my new 5.1, they are sending out replacement parts to try and see if that cures it. After looking into the main problem at the front end, it looks like the holes for the balls in the lower arm are too small. This is clamping the ball and making it tight. This in turn is making the ball clamp onto the kingpin, again, making that action very tight. Hopefully the replacement parts will arrive and will all fit just fine! Anyway, credit where credit's due, the guy at AE was helpful so we'll see how it pans out.

Sometimes popping the balls in and out of the arm 3+ times will loosen them too.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:30 AM   #1930
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I have had a little issue with the shock end fitting, other then that the car on the track doesn't lie, it's a performer, for me thats the bottom line.
Yep, you have to make sure the red o-ring is seated below the rim of shock body. If not, it will be tough putting the shock end on. It might take a few tries getting it seated right cause if you put in just a little too much oil it won't seat in below the rim of the shock body.

If anyone knows of a better way to do this please share!!
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:04 AM   #1931
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Yep, you have to make sure the red o-ring is seated below the rim of shock body. If not, it will be tough putting the shock end on. It might take a few tries getting it seated right cause if you put in just a little too much oil it won't seat in below the rim of the shock body.

If anyone knows of a better way to do this please share!!
The best way I have found to get the o ring to seat is to "burp" the o ring. Put the o ring in, noticing that it is not seated properly, and then take the end of a small wrench and pull back on the o ring between the shock shaft and the o ring. This should release the excess oil and allow the o ring to seat. Put the cap on and away you go. Works every time.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:14 AM   #1932
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The best way I have found to get the o ring to seat is to "burp" the o ring. Put the o ring in, noticing that it is not seated properly, and then take the end of a small wrench and pull back on the o ring between the shock shaft and the o ring. This should release the excess oil and allow the o ring to seat. Put the cap on and away you go. Works every time.
+1 to this. This is how i do it and do not have any problems at all. My setups from Cleveland should be posted soon to the AE site. I am finding with 1s that everything i ran in the past is not as good. Seems like the car is too hard to drive and has way too much steering. Therefore i am trying new stuff all the time and i am getting close to the feel that i want. Just need a few more adjustments and i think we will be there.

Right now i have found that spacing out my front end at the arm mounts 3mm per side is making a huge difference on the track, But when doing this be prepared to go softer then you would normally run on the front spring. I did this at Cleveland and it made the car have more corner speed , But i think my front end was too stiff and caused the car to hike entering the corners.

Mike
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:15 PM   #1933
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Blackstock you have a PM
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:26 PM   #1934
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John,
You can try teamassociated.com. If memory is correct you would choose racing -> setups which would bring you to a screen where you can then choose car type and factory driver. I haven't checked them all to see if there is a 17.5 specific set-up but you should be able to get a decent starting point. I think Mike Blackstock posts help in their forums so that may be a good resource as well. The way you were driving your TC yesterday I have no doubt you will have the 12R dialed in no time.

Later,
Chuck
Chuck, Thanks for the info and the compliment as well. Yeah, my TC felt pretty good.
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:15 AM   #1935
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Hey, Mike what tires were you using? and the spring sizes, front and centre?

Thanks
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