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Old 11-15-2009, 07:16 PM   #1846
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Hey guys I see the 12R5.1 comes with an airtronics servo saver. But LHS says that airtronics doesn't make a 12th scale stearing servo and the one supplied doesn't fit futaba is this true. And the futaba servo has ears on the bottom and front. Should you cut off the bottoms ones and use the supplied bulk head mounts? Sorry if I am using the wrong name.
LHS maybe wrong about that piece of information. Airtronics(94145) is the servo for 1/12 scale cars. I'm not sure if it is discontinued. It's very fast and reliable. I have one for sale if you need it. Ko propo(PDS 949ICS) also work with that servo saver as well.
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:45 AM   #1847
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Now available from AE Factory Team blue aluminum screw kits for the 12R5/5.1.
AE#8557
Kits contain screws that will work with either a R5 or R5.1 kit.
The kit is complete and contains even the hard to get sizes on the car.
It does not include the 4-40 wheel screws as they already come aluminum in the car kit.

Press release should go out tomorow with full details.
Haven't seen this one on the ae site yet

Do you know if there is a company, or even ae, releasing plastic front bulkhead shims, like the old one's from the standard front end?
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:50 PM   #1848
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Curious if anyone seen this Ver.2 of the pod plate? Its the same part number as the other but whats the Ver.2?..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
Here are the screw kits..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:12 PM   #1849
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Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
Curious if anyone seen this Ver.2 of the pod plate? Its the same part number as the other but whats the Ver.2?..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
Here are the screw kits..
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL
That is the top pod plate for the 12r5.1 I believe the Version 2 is referring to the original 12r5 top pod plate as Version 1.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:16 PM   #1850
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
That is the top pod plate for the 12r5.1 I believe the Version 2 is referring to the original 12r5 top pod plate as Version 1.
you are correct. v2 is the updated version of the reg r5. you of course need the 10r5oval motor mounts
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:57 PM   #1851
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For those interested, R/C Evil Empire did a build and test article of the Team Associated 12L5.1. It can be read here:

http://rcevilempire.com/2009/11/rcee...ated-rc12l5-1/

Special thanks to Traci Hohwart of Team Associated for all the help. It was a really nice build and I definitely recommend the car if you are into 1/12 racing
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:22 AM   #1852
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Good review.
Except it is a 12R5.1 not a 12LW5.1. Not sure where the LW come from
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Last edited by GWH74; 11-18-2009 at 01:21 AM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:32 AM   #1853
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Originally Posted by Maybell View Post
I am using the kit 3.25 setting also.

My rear end setup:

rear width 171mm
.8mm pod droop
25wt side shock oil
30wt center shock with gold spring, second hole from bottum of mount
blue side springs

Jaco tires: pink, double pink on a Paragon track....yellow, lilac on a Jack track. 1.72 inch rear tire, 1.62 front.

3.5mm ride hight front and rear.
Sean,

Thanks a lot. Your set-up looks a lot like mine. Only difference is the side shock oil. We have a smooth flowing track and I Like to use 35/40WT. .

But a problem I have is, that it pushes with Pink (rear) -Double Pink (front), onpower.
With Double pink front and rear it's not like that. What do you think this can be? Double Pink Front and rear is faster for me, Double pink is a harder tyre in the rear, with less natural rubber.

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Old 11-18-2009, 01:48 AM   #1854
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Robert,

I race with Sean. I would say that you probably have a permenent track or at least have more people putting down traction. We have a decent turnout of racers but we only have a tempory track that only gets used a few times a month so we never get huge traction from it.

If you get enough forward grip, I would run the double pink all around. The firmer the tire as long as you have enough grip then the better I feel. Less tire wear, less prone to chunk, etc.

Have you tried different caster settings?

Steve




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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Sean,

Thanks a lot. Your set-up looks a lot like mine. Only difference is the side shock oil. We have a smooth flowing track and I Like to use 35/40WT. .

But a problem I have is, that it pushes with Pink (rear) -Double Pink (front), onpower.
With Double pink front and rear it's not like that. What do you think this can be? Double Pink Front and rear is faster for me, Double pink is a harder tyre in the rear, with less natural rubber.

Best Regards

Robert Krens
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:07 AM   #1855
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In the process of a new 12r5.1 build and a couple of things i have noticed.
The blue is lighter, looks a bit weird as the blue on the rear hubs is the old darker blue and sits right next to the lighter blue of the rear bulkheads.
Pivot balls in both lower front arms were very tight and require a lot of work to free them up, much tighter then the original 12r5. Top arms were very smooth.
No hope of getting the shock shaft into the shock rod ends. They are way too tight and could damage something. Will need to ream these out. The old 12r5 ones were almost too loose.
Besides these little issues it is a very nice kit. All the bags are well organised and labelled. No searching for parts.
Lets see if i can get it finished tomorrow.
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:28 AM   #1856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Robert,

I race with Sean. I would say that you probably have a permenent track or at least have more people putting down traction. We have a decent turnout of racers but we only have a tempory track that only gets used a few times a month so we never get huge traction from it.

If you get enough forward grip, I would run the double pink all around. The firmer the tire as long as you have enough grip then the better I feel. Less tire wear, less prone to chunk, etc.

Have you tried different caster settings?

Steve
Steve,

Thanks for your repley.

I race at several tracks, but this one is permanent (Mach Heemstede, where the EK1:12 Stock was held). Disadvantage is that there are a lot of touringcars that "drive the grip away" (If you understand what I mean ;-)) So the grip is far from "sticky high", but still good.

I've not tried different caster settings yet I like how the (front of the) car reacts. The Set-up Sean post's is almost my basic setup (I'm starting with the blue center spring, that's all).

This "Pushing" behavior what my car gives is something I have with the softer tyres (Yellow, Pink) and when I slam the throttle a bit to hard, My car just goes a bit wide which cost me a few tent's in laptime, but I'm trying to understand why. And how to get rid of it, without changing the tyres.

Thanks,

Best Regards

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Old 11-18-2009, 11:52 AM   #1857
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Good review.
Except it is a 12R5.1 not a 12LW5.1. Not sure where the LW come from
RC12LW is a 1992 car. The L comes from Losi - Gil Losi Jnr. - who was the first to mate a Delta T-bar rear end to an RC12 front end, a design Associated picked up and made.

The W comes from the IFMAR World's winning car of Tony Neisinger, and was the first 12L to have a centre shock where a simple spring had been before. Hence, 12LW!

The 'R' in 12R5 is, I guess, a reference to Robert (Bob) Stelfue, who designed the latest car - or so it says on another thread! I just love this nitty gritty, useless detail!!
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:27 PM   #1858
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Robert K- I would try a stiffer center shock spring, would help get rid of that on power push I believe, easy change to try even for a couple laps in practice.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:43 AM   #1859
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What is meant by 'active caster'?
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:56 AM   #1860
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Originally Posted by m@_c View Post
What is meant by 'active caster'?
Reactive Caster is the amount of caster change when the front suspension is compressed.
When your front suspension is compressed, the angle of the upper susp. arm will give you a amount of angle change. The Arm is Angle forward and will decrease your amount of caster, when compressed

In "short" terms: (This is not precisely true)
10 Degrees Will give a lot "corner in" but not so much "corner out"
5 degrees will give a smooth feeling
0 degrees will give a really soft an lazy feeling.

Normally I'm driving 5 degrees, because I don't like the feeling of 10, when I'm going fast into a corner. The car will tent do "drift" going in, but will be stable in the middle - end of the corner. And 0 degrees is just to soft...

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