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Old 09-11-2009, 07:46 AM   #1531
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One thing I've noticed with link cars is that the car will change from one week to the next week if you leave it alone. I really think the side spring loses some tension sitting there all week and makes the car handle differently. At the least, from week to week it's probably best to back the springs off after the day and then re-tweak before practice\racing the following week as well as rebuild\relube the side dampers on the the car.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:50 AM   #1532
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Ya, thats what I was thinking too and tore my car apart and just made sure everything was free but no slop. It didnt help. Then thinking that the oil was getting dirty or low in the shocks. Went threw them and it helped but didnt fix the problem.

I figured if I know how to fix what was wrong I wouldnt have to worry if it went out of tune because a tweak or two and its back.

A couple of us started to think maybe the weather had some thing to do with it. Sure enough when it was hot the car was great but when it cooled off it would double steer (less rear traction). These cars are pretty sensitive and it makes sense so, now I know to pay attention to the air temps from week to week.

DK
So did you go to lighter weight oil on the side damper to fix the double steer?
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:00 AM   #1533
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So did you go to lighter weight oil on the side damper to fix the double steer?
Normally heavier oil will help with double steer. I did mess with it but found that was just a nightmare. The car works best with a 30/30 shock setup. 5wt either way for fine tuning. And thats going from silver to gold side springs and blue to copper shock spring on the same oil.

I want to get with Sean and see if we can come up with a base line stock lipo setup. From what he has posted and what I have found I think we can get the car right in the middle of the tuning range and very close right off the bat.

DK
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:56 AM   #1534
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Normally heavier oil will help with double steer. I did mess with it but found that was just a nightmare. The car works best with a 30/30 shock setup. 5wt either way for fine tuning. And thats going from silver to gold side springs and blue to copper shock spring on the same oil.

I want to get with Sean and see if we can come up with a base line stock lipo setup. From what he has posted and what I have found I think we can get the car right in the middle of the tuning range and very close right off the bat.

DK
I run Sean's 13.5 setup for 17.5 Lipo and it works very well. Sometimes I don't like the Black fronts and I use Lilac's but both work great. I change front springs to 18 with the Blacks and go to 20 with Lilac's.

Steve
Indianapolis
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:45 AM   #1535
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I run Sean's 13.5 setup for 17.5 Lipo and it works very well. Sometimes I don't like the Black fronts and I use Lilac's but both work great. I change front springs to 18 with the Blacks and go to 20 with Lilac's.

Steve
Indianapolis
Sean has two setups listed. Witch one are you running?

At my track the only front tire that stays for the whole 8mins is black. Every thing else fades after 6 mins. In stock anyway.

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Old 09-11-2009, 09:59 AM   #1536
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I think perhaps the lighter weight of the lipo cars makes them much more sensitive to changes in conditions. With the NiMh car I ran the same setup for months and as long as everything was clean the car was just stuck.
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:57 PM   #1537
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Sean has two setups listed. Witch one are you running?

At my track the only front tire that stays for the whole 8mins is black. Every thing else fades after 6 mins. In stock anyway.

DK
Run the latest setup. Yellow Rears and Black Front's.
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Old 09-12-2009, 03:46 PM   #1538
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I think perhaps the lighter weight of the lipo cars makes them much more sensitive to changes in conditions. With the NiMh car I ran the same setup for months and as long as everything was clean the car was just stuck.
Looks that way to me. Funny thing is, when runing lipo it has a nice broad range to set tweak. But with 4cell, the only way I could get it right is on the tweak board. Had to be dead on or it was bad.


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Run the latest setup. Yellow Rears and Black Front's.
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Tire: Jaco Prism
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Out of the 3 13.5/lipo set ups posted, I think that one would be the best to start with.

DK
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Old 09-12-2009, 04:27 PM   #1539
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Funny, we found the 1C cars to not be that sensitive, but we run Paragon as our traction additive. If you're running Jack then I think that's your culpret. I say that because several years ago when all we had were Jack tracks here, every week we had to deal with front tires having issues.

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Old 09-12-2009, 05:33 PM   #1540
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Partime,

Today I went and practiced for several hours. I ran probably about 10 batteries through. some short sessions but the last sessions long runs 9-10 min as I was testing gearing alot and wanted to make sure I had power at the end of the runs. I probably did 4 long sessions.

I didn't change anything on the car from last time I ran the car and the car was bad starting off like it was. I considered this good as I wanted to determine what my problem was.

I decided the biggest change since my car was good was my car tire stagger. My rear tires wear much faster than my fronts. Probably 2x, maybe even almost 3x the rate. When initially setting up the car I always start tires 2 mm smaller in the front. When measuring them today they was only .5 difference. I cut the fronts, left the rear alone for my second battery. The difference in stagger was 2.1mm. The car was instantly better, back on pace, and no the rear was nice and locked in but not too locked in.

So through the day I made a few changes just to try (nothing was faster, just different) and I kept an eye on tire wear. I ended the day with 1.5mm stagger, the car was still good. I'm guessing as the car aproaches the 1mm stagger mark for my setup it starts to go bad.

I'm going to start carrying two sets of rears for every front tire and rotating in and out alot to minimize the need to true fronts down. Especially now that I've finally decided on a front tires for our track. Lilacs seem to be the way to go all the time.
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:34 PM   #1541
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Funny, we found the 1C cars to not be that sensitive, but we run Paragon as our traction additive. If you're running Jack then I think that's your culpret. I say that because several years ago when all we had were Jack tracks here, every week we had to deal with front tires having issues.

Steve




Different car, but I tried Jack for a while on a Rug Rat and was ready to give up until getting back onto Paragon. Same issue, tires went off way bad at around 6 minutes. And if you got off line and picked up trash on your tires that run was done for.
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:58 PM   #1542
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Partime,

Today I went and practiced for several hours. I ran probably about 10 batteries through. some short sessions but the last sessions long runs 9-10 min as I was testing gearing alot and wanted to make sure I had power at the end of the runs. I probably did 4 long sessions.

I didn't change anything on the car from last time I ran the car and the car was bad starting off like it was. I considered this good as I wanted to determine what my problem was.

I decided the biggest change since my car was good was my car tire stagger. My rear tires wear much faster than my fronts. Probably 2x, maybe even almost 3x the rate. When initially setting up the car I always start tires 2 mm smaller in the front. When measuring them today they was only .5 difference. I cut the fronts, left the rear alone for my second battery. The difference in stagger was 2.1mm. The car was instantly better, back on pace, and no the rear was nice and locked in but not too locked in.

So through the day I made a few changes just to try (nothing was faster, just different) and I kept an eye on tire wear. I ended the day with 1.5mm stagger, the car was still good. I'm guessing as the car aproaches the 1mm stagger mark for my setup it starts to go bad.

I'm going to start carrying two sets of rears for every front tire and rotating in and out alot to minimize the need to true fronts down. Especially now that I've finally decided on a front tires for our track. Lilacs seem to be the way to go all the time.
Thats one thing I have been meaning to try. I run 1.6 frt and 1.7 rear. Normally my front wear more then the rear. But that was black/pink. I switched to black/yellow and the rears wear out a touch faster now. I try to not let my tires get closer then .05 to each other. I did try 1.65 frt and rear once but, didnt care for it.

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Different car, but I tried Jack for a while on a Rug Rat and was ready to give up until getting back onto Paragon. Same issue, tires went off way bad at around 6 minutes. And if you got off line and picked up trash on your tires that run was done for.
I have been running parogon but most are using jack. There was some talk about the two causing problems and wanted to be just a jack track. Thankfully the owner is a racer, oval racer so he wont let go of his parogon.



I have been playing with a mod in my car. Its just a 6.5 instead of the normal 3.5, 4.5 but its still pretty fast. I set the car up for dbl pink frt and rear. I love mod !!! The car is easyer to drive, goes threw LESS tire in a night and its faster. Well, kinda odd how dbl pink will work in mod but not in stock. For some reason every time I try a normal rubber (magenta, lilac) they glaze over and fall off at the 4 or 5 min mark. They just wont hold on. Im thinking that the stock motor cant go fast enough to load the tires up to get them to temp. There too cold, they slide and then glaze.

I do want to pull the mod and drop the stock back in and try this setup to see if I can make it work. Im thinking it will just slide around but have to see. I think a set of Magenta's are next. Just a touch softer than the dbl pink. Do they make pink front tires ?

DK
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Old 09-17-2009, 01:01 AM   #1543
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Got My RC12R5.1 yesterday, started sanding and glue-ing the chassis. It's really nice!!! The Rear Pod is really open...

This is my 3e RC12R5, and again having a problem with the Shocks. The blue aluminium shock end is again not drilled right... But it is only one of the two ends... Does Associated know this??

Greetings

Robert
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:55 AM   #1544
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Default 12r5.1 top pod plate

I have almost converted my 12r5 into the 12r5.1..the only part i am missing and cannot find is asc4688, top pod plate. Does anyone have this part for sale or an extra..i am willing to pay $20 for the part..it only costs $11...if there is someone that has one send me a pic and a message..thanks in advance...I need the part asap..and yes i have checked with associated and they do not have it..
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:37 AM   #1545
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Thats one thing I have been meaning to try. I run 1.6 frt and 1.7 rear. Normally my front wear more then the rear. But that was black/pink. I switched to black/yellow and the rears wear out a touch faster now. I try to not let my tires get closer then .05 to each other. I did try 1.65 frt and rear once but, didnt care for it.
DK
What's your opinion on Pink vs Yellow in the rear when running 13.5 or 17.5?
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