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Old 08-23-2009, 06:32 AM   #1486
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Why not just use the lower pod graphite off the 10r5o. Considering the link po of the 10r5 is what we use for brushless and the 12r5.1 is using the oval car rear pods and new upper pod plate shoul be easy bolt in with current t plate conversion
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:55 AM   #1487
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Why not just use the lower pod graphite off the 10r5o. Considering the link po of the 10r5 is what we use for brushless and the 12r5.1 is using the oval car rear pods and new upper pod plate shoul be easy bolt in with current t plate conversion
Won't work, The oval pod is a bit narrower.
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:28 AM   #1488
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Correct! The oval pod is narrower than the RC10R5/RC12R5.1 pod. And besides that, the oval pod uses a 10th scale T-bar and is has a nasty big offset to one side. It won't work, I have already looked into that. For me it is fairly easy to make parts out of carbon fiber so I don't worry about it. I will make a slightly wider lower pod plate and my problems are over...
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:23 PM   #1489
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Default The finer points in 12th scales . . .

I'd like to see if I can get a little bit of a database gathered from people. I've been paying more attention to how I mount my bodies lately and am curious to hear where others are mounting their bodies. For right now I am ignoring front to rear adjustments and focusing on height by looking at which holes in the posts different people have different bodies mounted on. I've been looking at this trying to keep anything from hitting the body, while still getting it as low as possible (the four things that seem to be the worst offenders are the battery plugs on the 4900 smc lipo, the motor solder tabs, the upper front arms, and the nub on the upper pod that the side shock attaches to. If you have any oddities used in mounting your body (ie Dan's foam donuts instead of the std body disks, or shims under the body posts to get heights that fall in between the holes). I have also noticed that the amount of reactive castor limits how low the body can mount in the front. I have to mount the body higher with 0 than I do with 5 etc. Also mention if you cut your body longer or shorter than the mold lines .



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Old 08-24-2009, 05:00 AM   #1490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
I bought a Gen X used off here and it had a carbon fiber wide bumper, however, Im unsure of who made it. A foam bumper will not withstand my driving skills.

Like this:

I didn't see anyone answer this.
http://rc4less.com/Hyperdrive_Produc...4ecf2aaa4525bc
It's a hyperdrive bumper, for there 1/12 scale cars
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:36 AM   #1491
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Here's a tip I found to get various thickness spacers for use in adjusting shock travel in the center shock. The standard spacer is 4mm. I happen to prefer a 2.5 to 3 mm spacer. So I use pieces of antenna cut to length. To do this I make a guillotine using an aluminum spacer the same thickness as my desired spacer thickness. I set the spacer vertically on my pit table and close off one end of the hole in the spacer with my droop gauge (any hard flat surface will do) Then I place the end of the antenna tube on the other end of the spacer and use an Exacto to slice down on the tube, and Viola! A 3 mm internal shock spacer. If you're really organized like me you make each .5 mm length out of a different color tube and keep several of each size on a small container. The main reason I do this to allow the shock to compress completely without creating excessive rear pod droop.
To use this smaller spacer do you need to make any other adjustments to the shock, ball cup, etc ? Thanks.
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:50 AM   #1492
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To use this smaller spacer do you need to make any other adjustments to the shock, ball cup, etc ? Thanks.
In order to return the droop to normal you will need to shorten the ball cup also. Cut off the same amount from the ball cup that you remove from the spacer. It might be necessary to cut some of the threads off the cap to get the ball cup to screw all the way down.

This shock mod makes a big difference on less than smooth surfaces.
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Old 08-24-2009, 07:08 PM   #1493
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When are the new pod parts going to be available?
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:45 AM   #1494
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When are the new pod parts going to be available?
The last couple of parts are on transit to us now. They should be here next week, then it's on to the Distributors.
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:49 AM   #1495
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GREAT!!! Then I can order my 5.1 parts in a couple of weeks!!! YEAH!!!
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:00 AM   #1496
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I m just getting into 12th scale. I have purchased a used 12R5. I'll be running a 27T stock motor with 4 cell nimh packs to get started. I'll be running on carpet. What basic set up would any of you recommend? Thanks for your time.
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:22 AM   #1497
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The stock set-up (built according to the manual) will work fine for you. Try that first and then along the way of upgrading the motor, speed & handling you can learn more about 12th scale and you can play with the set-ups but for a 27turn motor, the standard set-up will work...
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:42 AM   #1498
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Joost K. - Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:10 AM   #1499
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I know this as been asked previously but I tried to search the thread and the Search function appears to be fubar!

What spacers are folks using to space the front arms 1-1.5mm out from the mounts? Are you using the spacers that are normally used to adjust front ride height? Something else?

I'm trying to get my 12R5 setup for the upcoming indoor season so any insight someone could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:28 AM   #1500
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I know this as been asked previously but I tried to search the thread and the Search function appears to be fubar!

What spacers are folks using to space the front arms 1-1.5mm out from the mounts? Are you using the spacers that are normally used to adjust front ride height? Something else?

I'm trying to get my 12R5 setup for the upcoming indoor season so any insight someone could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Mike
Yes the ride height shims work great for that. They're even the "right" color blue.
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