V12

iTrader: (1)

Well I think you could give me some tips on setup. I think I will start with the kit setup then but maybe there is something you would change right from the beginning because of the different conditions.
As I said at the email already our rules are different. We run 2 cell lipo and 13.5T spec motors weight limit is 1000g. Saddlepack Lipos are not available currently so have to use my 5300 (heavy) sticktype Lipos for this race. Racetrack will be asphalt outdoors, fast and flowing.
This is the track
http://www.bauer-online.name/_borders/Rennstrecke.gif
Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YRpI...e=channel_page

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Wow, that track is huge. I would start with the kit setup. 2s and 13.5 isnt going to be tough on a track that size. The setup i posted on here that i just ran should be good also. Just go with 2x pink front and rear and cut the tires to 2.250 and you should be fine.

V12

iTrader: (1)

Justs did look again at the manual from the website. So I will keep the 10° castor blocks right? Didnīt read anything on the oil in the centershock, what is a good starting point 40wt or less? Donīt know this Losi (?) shock.

With the onroad cars I always used the steering tierods in front of the servosaver what is also used in the manual. But sometimes you also see pictures like yours above with the steering tierods behind the servosaver. When do you use this and why? Never found an explanation until now.
Thanks.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The kit shock is the new IRS macro shock. I use 45 wt. oil in it most of the time. I like running my tie rods behind the servo saver for leverage reasons. The further you have the ballcups from the gear, the more load that is put on the servo saver. It moves the weight a little further forward but on the WGT car it doesnt make any difference in handling.

hippie

iTrader: (20)

70mm ?. I have'nt ran pan cars in over 15 years . So i dony lnow what you mean .

protc3

iTrader: (13)

I will get you geared properly when we go to the next minnreg race. To figure your rollout you take your tire diameter X 3.14 and that will give you the circumference. Then you take the number of teeth on the spur/number of teeth on your pinion and that gives you the final drive. Take the circumference / the final drive and you have your roll out.

hippie

iTrader: (20)

Cool thank's .But what if my car is a different bran than yours .

protc3

iTrader: (13)

It doesnt matter. I was helping guys with CRC,AE and SpeedMerchant cars last time. Im not a cornball like that.

hippie

iTrader: (20)

I know your not Thats why i let you use any of my stuff at the track .

V12

iTrader: (1)

Ah never thought about the leverage from the tie rods putting more load on the servosaver. Thanks for clearing up. Actually I thought steering geometrie is different as I think tie rods are more straight this way.

Regarding the centershock, with the newer kits the shock was moved more to the rear in compare to what I found in the downloaded manual. Is the overall length still 79mm?
Also the resulting pod droop of 1.5mm is this for carpet or also used for asphalt outdoors?

protc3

iTrader: (13)

I will check my shock length tommorow. If i remember correctly it is the same. I use 1-1.5mm pod droop everywhere as long as the bumps arent too bad.

2wdrive

I thought straight steering rods induced bumpsteer? I saw this on the new corally, it had straight rods and when you compressed the front it got a little toe in. Don't know if it is bad or good but it was there. The rc10l2 with the forward swept rods doesn't have bumpsteer.

2wdrive

Isn't that the track in Bad Breisig?

Edit: never mind, only saw the picture and now just saw the video. I was there once as well. Nice track and a beatifull suroundings with the big river and mountains.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Looking at the car from the front, if your tie rods are level it will give you bump steer. The closer you keep the angle of the tie rods to the angle of the upper arms. If you look down from the top of the car, the turnbuckle angle from front to rear will adjust your ackerman. I normally run them straight across looking from the top as it is pretty neutral. Even a little forward in center is good. Running the inner ballcups behind the outer ballcups is not good

2wdrive

I see, i did see that with different ride height i got different ackerman (rc10l2.5) so i now always shimm the ballend up or down accordingly to get the same ackerman. What you say would be the same then? Less sweeping forward rods means less ackermann? Straight means no ackerman ( but shiming the ball ends would do some sorth of ackerman change ( also depending on ride height). I got the same feeling that indeed less ackerman drives more neutral.