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cyclone, lrp, others???

cyclone, lrp, others???

Old 01-28-2002, 05:32 AM
  #76  
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Hi all. Greetings from Malta.

CORSE R. My goodness you run alot of negative throttle curve.

I suppose it's all right on a very slippery surface, though with your settings, once you floor the throttle the rest of the curve becomes steeper.

I have never gone below -25, even on very low grip tracks. Incidentally I also use KO transmitters, only I use sticks not wheel.

What's the weather like in Spain?

We had a fabulous day yesterday which my wife and I spent cruising on my 1200 Suzuki Bandit. It's RC next weekend.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-28-2002, 09:22 AM
  #77  
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Originally posted by johnbull
CORSE R. My goodness you run alot of negative throttle curve.

I suppose it's all right on a very slippery surface, though with your settings, once you floor the throttle the rest of the curve becomes steeper.

I have never gone below -25, even on very low grip tracks. Incidentally I also use KO transmitters, only I use sticks not wheel.

What's the weather like in Spain?
Very moist at 9:00AM (Time whom start to race)... and with the running of the morning, the track becomes dry I reduce those values at almost zero (a buddy of mine says me that one days of these I'll wreck the asphalt layer by the use of drag start of the LRP's....

This sunday starts our season (now it's time to sharping the knifes...).
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Old 01-28-2002, 02:24 PM
  #78  
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Johnbull & Course-R,

Thank you for your suggestions. I had a novak speedo in my first truck, and wasn't too happy with it. But, I might try one sometime in the future. Johnbull, what do you suggest for a stock 4-cell 1/12 scale? The lads around here use a TC-2,c-2, and Atoms. I am kind of an oddball. I am now using my Tekin G-9 out of my Schumacher sedan for the 1/12, because I killed the Tekin G-10 when I tried running modified one night. I figured it might be kind of cool to whoop up on the competition with old technology stuff, like Tekin Speed Controls. However, I bit the bullet late last year and picked up some SMC 3000hv's because 2000's just can't hang in there for 8minutes and the rollouts that people run. Course-R, I will try putting a whole new program in my radio as you suggested. The current program is on level 4 and my G-9 likes it just fine. I'll give it a whirl, though. Kind of an expensive piece to just have sitting around.

By the way, if either of you two are ever around my neck of the woods, I race at Twin City Hobby & Raceway in Brooklyn Park, MN. on Saturday night. Lots of sedans, 1/12 scale(mod and stock).
Check it out on the web sometime. The address is twincityhobby.com.


Again thank you for all your suggestions and keep the shiny side up!!!


Regards,
Dave S
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Old 01-29-2002, 06:47 PM
  #79  
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anyone has any idea how old is the Gm v12xc and lrp v7.1?
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Old 01-29-2002, 08:35 PM
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I don't know how old the GM speedo is but the 7.1 is and isn't old. The "IS"...means that it's been out for a while but it's still a proven speedo. The "ISN'T"...means that LRP has only released one other speedo since the 7.1 Most racers out here have gone back to the 7.1 including myself.
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Old 01-29-2002, 10:08 PM
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Originally posted by Dave S
Johnbull & Course-R,

I am now using my Tekin G-9 out of my Schumacher sedan for the 1/12, because I killed the Tekin G-10 when I tried running modified one night. I figured it might be kind of cool to whoop up on the competition with old technology stuff, like Tekin Speed Controls.
I don't think you'll find a better speed control than the Tekin G-9. It may be a few years old, but in my opinion no one has equalled or bettered it yet.

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Old 01-29-2002, 11:57 PM
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I am curious if anyone on here has ever used that repair service for any make speedo, they advertise on Ebay, their site is www.members.shaw.ca/hiiq/fset.htm . I was also told about them by another forum member, but am curious to know if anyone here has ever used their service and how satisfied you were with the results? They say they can do chargers as well, maybe this might be good for Victor owners as another source for repairs?
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Old 01-30-2002, 12:00 AM
  #83  
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Interesting discussion. The only GM I have had any experience with was one from some 8 years ago, the size of a truck. It had like a whole keyboard of programme possibilities, but it was big and heavy. But that's an age ago. I understand they have come a long way since.

No experience with Tekin.

Used LRP in the days of their old Mk2 - probably their best and most robust speedo, and also the original ICS. At least the 7.1 seems more reliable than the Quantums. Blue smoke is better!We started off the season here with quite a few LRP's. I think there are 2 left. The rest all went up in blue smoke.

NOVAK. We now use Novak speedos exclusively, if for no other reason for the fact that they are infinately reliable. Just yesterday evening a friend cross wired his Cyclone. By the time he disconnected it the case had already started to melt, and the stench....well you know what a stink burnt speedos make! It even melted the solder off the connections.

Well, he let it cool down, resoldered the wires, and ran it satisfactorily for the rest of the evening. I don't think any other speedos would do that.

1/12th. Seeing as you have very little space in a 1/12th car I would go for a Novak Atom. It's small, efficient, and most of all, it's reliable.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-30-2002, 12:15 AM
  #84  
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Originally posted by johnbull
Well....

I have 12 years of experience with ESC's. My very first ESC was an ACOMS (we're talking about '89 christmas). Those ESC worked fairly well unless I put some 'insane wind' for these age (an insane wind was somewhat powerful 16 turns). I changed for my First Tekin, the model was the Tekin 700 a larger and bulkier unit (If I don't recall wrong was one of the first high frequency units) It worked fairly well on my off-road machine working with some small glitch during those two years.

I Installed another Tekin unit (a 410K unit maybe) their 'low footprint' (the same footprint of a 411G was ideal for the tight space of a 1/12 pan car.

I smoked my tekin 700 and I changed for a very old buy loved unit of the LRP LeMans II unit (their case was a piece of shrink wrap) It lasted several years (I changed for a LRP V6 unit).

Some kind of upgrading electronics went thru those units: LRP V7.1, GM V12 and Quantum Competition.

For the LRP units none to say I'm using them for about 9 years and none of them disappointed me, work reliable, sturdy units and very robust (specially the V6 and V7.1).

Tekins were very good the only Tekin unit who needed some service was the 700 (I blown the brake fets several times until I installed schottky diodes to my motors), the 410K todays are on my toolbox as a spare for the 1/12 pan car.

The only units I've had of the V12's worked me quite good (but, all two are repairing since SEPTEMBER.... Ralf Helbing: those two GM units are the last two I buy ever... Improve your repair service, it sucks!).

By the moment, I stick with LRP units.
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Old 01-30-2002, 05:53 AM
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Hi Imataquito,

If you would like more punch you can lower the drive frequency to 1.5 and the mnimum dpo to about 10.

Those two will affect your punch and the brake willaffect the strength and stopping power of the brake.

Cheers
Originally posted by imataquito
RAIN RAIN go AWAY !!!!!!! LOL
still cant test it .... today ... but i did change some settings for better punch ... hope it works out well
here's some things about it - haven tested

d_po 20
b_po 20
nubr 0
f_br off
d_fr 0.3
b_fr 5
nbfr 4
po_l 100
dash ??????

i still dont undersand what some of this settings does ... like the
neutral brake and neutral braking frequency and the neutral width

how do i know if the dash mode is on or off .... can i set a timer to the dash function ?? like say 2 secs on 1/2 punch and then full punch ? - like the GMv12

TY again
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Old 01-31-2002, 02:19 AM
  #86  
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ok will tell my friend to try ...
hehe i am not testing the keyence anymore ..... dunno why but it reported a 64 celcius for its heat for a 23 turn stock and 78 degrees celcius for a mod 10 turn ...
kinda HOTTTTT!!
is it the same with urs ?

hehe i think i might give up the gm or the keyence for a V7.1 now... still THINKING ..

v 7.1 anywhere as good or as punchy ?? been a LONGGGGGGG time since i tested one

Last edited by imataquito; 01-31-2002 at 02:23 AM.
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Old 02-01-2002, 01:26 AM
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i think the GMV12 XC was released last year to replace the V12..... i'm not sure. who cares.... it's fantastic
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Old 02-07-2002, 08:12 PM
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do you guys know the specs of the v7.1 and the v6? the drive frequency, on resistance, and amp rating, if possible. thanks for any info
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Old 02-08-2002, 09:07 AM
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Originally posted by viper1
I have been buying speedos left and right so many till i have problem counting. Among them are:

LRP V7.1/Quantum Competition
Novak Duster/Hammer Pro/Super Rooster/TC
Keyence 01/Zero V Extreme/Zero V Extreme 2002
Schulze Eagle 3+
Mtroniks RZr/RZ
GM V12WE/V12XC
Futaba 330CR

My Favourite is the Keyence Zero V Extremes they have settings that make the rest of the Speedos look like Toys from the kids department stores. All the settings can be done without extra equipment like wizards and programmers. The punch from the Keyence is, simply put, breath taking. The second is the Mtroniks with their variable frequency and huge capacitors provide one hell of a punch but can be a little draining on cells. The schulze is an interesting but needs a Laptop to be programmed efficiently. The quantum's are great and they have worked very well but some what lacking in the puch department compared to the Keyence and the Mtronikc but still edges out the Novaks.

My two cents worth.

Cheers
Viper &/or Ian S,

Have you ever encounter a problem with the Keyence Zero V Extreme, when suddenly your car goes "crazy" (out of control in full throttle)?

Somebody told me it's because of me not putting the capacitor for the motor. But my argument is that the motor has a built in capacitor.

Your advice is very much appreciated.

Regards,
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Old 02-08-2002, 11:38 PM
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Keyence: I have never had that problem with mine. Are you sure it is the speedo and not the receiver or something else causing the glitch. Try another motor if possible and a different receiver. If you haven't checked any of these other factors it's possible it is being caused by something else.
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