SERPENT 120
#421
Does this mean that when we upgrade our t bars we will need to alter our chassis? Sorry i dont have my car infront of me to se if those 2 holes are in it
#422
#423
Tech Fanatic
There are three holes in the T bar. The large hole in the middle for the pivot ball cup and the two holes for the screws on each side of the big hole. While switching to button heads adds a little more material to the T bar, the design of all three holes in a row across the T bar, makes a very weak unit. The Associated, CRC, HPI design is much better as it uses four screws and the holes are not in a row across the T bar. Much stronger. It would cost a lot of money for serpent to make new pivot ball cups molds, cheaper to buy Associated, CRC, HPI pivot ball cups for the kits or even cheaper to eliminate the counter sink and switch from flat head screws to button head screws which is what they chose to do. Understandably they do not want to increase the cost of the kit anymore than it already is.
Looks like I will be going forward with making my own T bars which will use either Associated, CRC or HPI pivot ball cups.
#424
Another note - are your sure theese larger holes in the main chassis plate won't reduce its rigidity in a heavy-loaded area where the rear pivot-ball is mounted?
#425
Tech Fanatic
I have several different chassis with holes like that for other cars and I have never broken a chassis in that area. The T bar will break long before the chassis will.
#428
There have been issues where the tread was pulled from the axle. We believe it is due to the nut running out of thread before the diff is tight. I suggest using a washer between the nut and the belleville washers that sit against the thrust bearing.
The newer kits have 1/8th diff balls which helps and the axle was slightly changed. But to be on the safe side use a shim. About 1mm thick is enough.
#429
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Actually.... No.
There have been issues where the tread was pulled from the axle. We believe it is due to the nut running out of thread before the diff is tight. I suggest using a washer between the nut and the belleville washers that sit against the thrust bearing.
The newer kits have 1/8th diff balls which helps and the axle was slightly changed. But to be on the safe side use a shim. About 1mm thick is enough.
There have been issues where the tread was pulled from the axle. We believe it is due to the nut running out of thread before the diff is tight. I suggest using a washer between the nut and the belleville washers that sit against the thrust bearing.
The newer kits have 1/8th diff balls which helps and the axle was slightly changed. But to be on the safe side use a shim. About 1mm thick is enough.
#430
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
That explains why the new, replacement T bars are not counter sunk for flat head screws!! I first thought it was an error. That's too bad. All they did was eliminate the counter sinking on the T bar that was required for the flat head screws. This will make the T bar slightly stronger but does not fix the problem.
There are three holes in the T bar. The large hole in the middle for the pivot ball cup and the two holes for the screws on each side of the big hole. While switching to button heads adds a little more material to the T bar, the design of all three holes in a row across the T bar, makes a very weak unit. The Associated, CRC, HPI design is much better as it uses four screws and the holes are not in a row across the T bar. Much stronger. It would cost a lot of money for serpent to make new pivot ball cups molds, cheaper to buy Associated, CRC, HPI pivot ball cups for the kits or even cheaper to eliminate the counter sink and switch from flat head screws to button head screws which is what they chose to do. Understandably they do not want to increase the cost of the kit anymore than it already is.
Looks like I will be going forward with making my own T bars which will use either Associated, CRC or HPI pivot ball cups.
There are three holes in the T bar. The large hole in the middle for the pivot ball cup and the two holes for the screws on each side of the big hole. While switching to button heads adds a little more material to the T bar, the design of all three holes in a row across the T bar, makes a very weak unit. The Associated, CRC, HPI design is much better as it uses four screws and the holes are not in a row across the T bar. Much stronger. It would cost a lot of money for serpent to make new pivot ball cups molds, cheaper to buy Associated, CRC, HPI pivot ball cups for the kits or even cheaper to eliminate the counter sink and switch from flat head screws to button head screws which is what they chose to do. Understandably they do not want to increase the cost of the kit anymore than it already is.
Looks like I will be going forward with making my own T bars which will use either Associated, CRC or HPI pivot ball cups.
#431
After switching to the 2mm t bar i havent really broken anything other than a front body post, and thats running mod and 10.5. I am using the countersunk t bars and although i broke my original thick t bar over the rear pivot and i do see the weakness i dont think its as bad as you are making out. Also to note that i had no build defects or axles falling apart in my kit
#432
Tech Fanatic
hey, hook it up with the pattern for that. Cause if they didn't have this lil Tbar issue I would have rated this kit a lot higher my friend. . overall good designs. kit is 80% done.. gotta make some tbar mods tho which kinda pisses me off.. jakes cars were great like that (daydreaming)
As for the diff, just use 1/8th balls and a cone washer on the outside bearing just like all of the other 1/12th cars and everything is wonderful. What Serpent tried to do is make a Slapmaster device which did not turn out just right. I have not given up on that piece but I might just throw a Slapmaster unit on the car and be done.
We raced today and I TQ'd by two laps!!! I had a four second lead in the main with less than a minute to go and was lapping the fourth place car for the second time when he punted me off of the back straight and back onto the infield behind the second place car. Even with that I almost caught him for the win. You will be very happy with the car.
#434
As for the diff, just use 1/8th balls and a cone washer on the outside bearing just like all of the other 1/12th cars and everything is wonderful. What Serpent tried to do is make a Slapmaster device which did not turn out just right. I have not given up on that piece but I might just throw a Slapmaster unit on the car and be done.
If so I'm 99% sure your problem is not with the thrust bearing.
Use 1/8th balls and the diff should work perfectly. We've had some issues withthe thread running out prior to setting the correct tension. But I've not seen or hear anything being wrong with the thrust bearing setup.
#435
Tech Fanatic
Did you use the kit supplied balls for the diff?
If so I'm 99% sure your problem is not with the thrust bearing.
Use 1/8th balls and the diff should work perfectly. We've had some issues withthe thread running out prior to setting the correct tension. But I've not seen or hear anything being wrong with the thrust bearing setup.
If so I'm 99% sure your problem is not with the thrust bearing.
Use 1/8th balls and the diff should work perfectly. We've had some issues withthe thread running out prior to setting the correct tension. But I've not seen or hear anything being wrong with the thrust bearing setup.
Don't get me wrong. I love this car!! As with any fine piece of racing hardware, it takes a little massaging to make it perfect.