Team Magic E4 Thread
08-25-2009, 02:21 PM
#2476
The newer cars are better suited for brushless and lipo then the original E4 but the E4 has more alloy parts on them tho.
It all depends on what cash you have to buy the other parts.
cheers Roy
It all depends on what cash you have to buy the other parts.
cheers Roy
Im thinking about getting E4RS (not the 2009 version, the original). Anything I need to know about this car? Do batteries with bullet connectors work or does the top deck block one of the plugs? Any other battery fitment or other issues I need to know about? Any hop-ups or tuning parts I need to consider? Thanks.
08-25-2009, 05:57 PM
#2478
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Do you guys find all these NEWER 30C 35C 40C or whatever mah lipo any BETTER, FASTER more PUNCH then some good old Orion 3800..? When you guys dealing with fitting lipo on E4RS, it is NOT a easy task. Battery with the SIDE exit power lead, or above exit power lead are PAIN to deal with (on E4RS)...
I used my left over 3600 and 3800 Orion with bullet plugs on my E4RS since day 1...ran indoor and outdoor, and I just don't see it is any slower/worst then my SMC5000, IB5000....etc. However, in order for me to fit the IB or SMC batteries...it is a total nightmare (ok, it is MY OWN nightmare...someone might like to do modification, I don't)...I have to add shim, remove the middle bridge, or add shim under the bridge, then find way to pull the battery lead to the speedo AND hope the side belt won't rub the wires...
If you can shell out extra $70...get yourself a 3800 Orion (or someone said Orion 4800 silver block will work too) and dedicated that for your E4RS. Again, it is LIPO...I race it, then charge it, and do it over and over...without even let it cool (well, I have plenty of time in between so it is cool enough to charge) and all my batteries are more then 1 years old...and still strong.
The best part is...my E4RS does not need to add shim or having that ugly dean plugs and wire all over. Direct bullet plug in the battery is what E4RS design for...by all mean, buy the bullet plug LIPO rather then the lead wire version.
I used my left over 3600 and 3800 Orion with bullet plugs on my E4RS since day 1...ran indoor and outdoor, and I just don't see it is any slower/worst then my SMC5000, IB5000....etc. However, in order for me to fit the IB or SMC batteries...it is a total nightmare (ok, it is MY OWN nightmare...someone might like to do modification, I don't)...I have to add shim, remove the middle bridge, or add shim under the bridge, then find way to pull the battery lead to the speedo AND hope the side belt won't rub the wires...
If you can shell out extra $70...get yourself a 3800 Orion (or someone said Orion 4800 silver block will work too) and dedicated that for your E4RS. Again, it is LIPO...I race it, then charge it, and do it over and over...without even let it cool (well, I have plenty of time in between so it is cool enough to charge) and all my batteries are more then 1 years old...and still strong.
The best part is...my E4RS does not need to add shim or having that ugly dean plugs and wire all over. Direct bullet plug in the battery is what E4RS design for...by all mean, buy the bullet plug LIPO rather then the lead wire version.
Now I did shim everthing up 2mm like the book shows for taller packs but the 4100 SMC could get away without doing that. I just have some stick on foam that I used under the top deck to take up any unwanted room from the batter to the topdeck. Works great.
08-25-2009, 06:01 PM
#2479
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08-25-2009, 06:08 PM
#2480
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I just finished putting on the Wolf alum rear hubs, caster blocks, and steering knuckles. Man do they look great and fit together great. Did they really take out alot of the slop I had in those areas. I'm ready for Saturday racing now. Fit and finish on the parts is excellent and alot cheaper than the K Factory parts. If your looking for some aluminum for your E4 call Wolf at Wolf Hobbies and he will get you what you need.
08-25-2009, 06:21 PM
#2482
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I have both and I can get them in the car if I take off the side selt tensioner off and the side brace. Once you get the motor in and put the tensioner back on you then loose most of your room to move the motor to change gearing. The motor hits the side belt tensioner. If the motor would be tapered like the orginal Novaks or the Losi Exceleron and then new Ballistic then you would have alot of room to move the motor around.
08-25-2009, 10:58 PM
#2483
where can i buy this car in the US? and what would be the best one to get if i run on carpet with foam tires?
08-25-2009, 11:00 PM
#2484
The LRP X11 brushless motors fit like a glove in there without any issues.
Run a 10.5 with a GM 90 ESC and it revs like made and keeps on going.
When using the GM motor you have to take a bit out of the chassis at the back of the motor.
Not much but you have to take some out.
Also when placing the motor you have to remove the side brace.
You can after placing the brace back again move the motor to put on different spurs and motor pinions.
cheers Roy
Run a 10.5 with a GM 90 ESC and it revs like made and keeps on going.
When using the GM motor you have to take a bit out of the chassis at the back of the motor.
Not much but you have to take some out.
Also when placing the motor you have to remove the side brace.
You can after placing the brace back again move the motor to put on different spurs and motor pinions.
cheers Roy
08-26-2009, 07:03 AM
#2486
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Wolfhobbies.com is the place to order the car from. Wolfs a super nice guys. Talked to him a few times over the last couple of weeks and placed a few orders. Never a problem.
08-26-2009, 07:06 AM
#2487
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The LRP X11 brushless motors fit like a glove in there without any issues.
Run a 10.5 with a GM 90 ESC and it revs like made and keeps on going.
When using the GM motor you have to take a bit out of the chassis at the back of the motor.
Not much but you have to take some out.
Also when placing the motor you have to remove the side brace.
You can after placing the brace back again move the motor to put on different spurs and motor pinions.
cheers Roy
Run a 10.5 with a GM 90 ESC and it revs like made and keeps on going.
When using the GM motor you have to take a bit out of the chassis at the back of the motor.
Not much but you have to take some out.
Also when placing the motor you have to remove the side brace.
You can after placing the brace back again move the motor to put on different spurs and motor pinions.
cheers Roy
I think it would really help out alot of guys looking at getting this car knowing what fits from the start.The X11 has a nice taper on the back of the can so that really helps with the fit into the E4.
08-26-2009, 08:03 AM
#2488
I think i am going to try the Tekin Red Line motor and the RS PRO RSC and find out how they behave in the TM.
Here at my home track i am the onlt GM ESC driver.
The rest have a LRP SPX Stock spec ESC either with LRP motor or GM.
I am going to be the different one here and find out the Tekin
cheers Roy
Ps i will keep you posted on how the Tekin motor fits when i get it
Here at my home track i am the onlt GM ESC driver.
The rest have a LRP SPX Stock spec ESC either with LRP motor or GM.
I am going to be the different one here and find out the Tekin
cheers Roy
Ps i will keep you posted on how the Tekin motor fits when i get it
08-26-2009, 12:10 PM
#2489
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I think i am going to try the Tekin Red Line motor and the RS PRO RSC and find out how they behave in the TM.
Here at my home track i am the onlt GM ESC driver.
The rest have a LRP SPX Stock spec ESC either with LRP motor or GM.
I am going to be the different one here and find out the Tekin
cheers Roy
Ps i will keep you posted on how the Tekin motor fits when i get it
Here at my home track i am the onlt GM ESC driver.
The rest have a LRP SPX Stock spec ESC either with LRP motor or GM.
I am going to be the different one here and find out the Tekin
cheers Roy
Ps i will keep you posted on how the Tekin motor fits when i get it
08-26-2009, 12:34 PM
#2490
I posed the motor question to Wolf Hobbies. This was the response:
"How much trouble you have fitting motors depends on your ability to pay attention and do math. This issue keeps coming up and we keep answering it. If you add up the number of teeth on your pinion gear and spur gear the total should be between 140 and 150. There is plenty of room for fine tuning if you just follow that simple rule. We post this tip on the treads every few months for new users and the LE edition comes with an instruction sheet explaining this too. I use everything from 10 turn to 17.5 and I only have two spur gears. Lack of motor adjustment space is never an issue."
"How much trouble you have fitting motors depends on your ability to pay attention and do math. This issue keeps coming up and we keep answering it. If you add up the number of teeth on your pinion gear and spur gear the total should be between 140 and 150. There is plenty of room for fine tuning if you just follow that simple rule. We post this tip on the treads every few months for new users and the LE edition comes with an instruction sheet explaining this too. I use everything from 10 turn to 17.5 and I only have two spur gears. Lack of motor adjustment space is never an issue."