Team Magic E4 Thread
08-18-2009, 08:43 AM
#2416
Just to make it all clear i only used the bearings from the front tensioner on the side tensioner.
The front bearings are a lot smaller then the side tensioner and so i get a bigger range to put the side belt on the correct tension(dayum that is a lot of tension
)
cheers Roy
The front bearings are a lot smaller then the side tensioner and so i get a bigger range to put the side belt on the correct tension(dayum that is a lot of tension
)cheers Roy
Thats a cool idea. I would say if you took the side tensioner orr completely and made a setup could go up from the chassis to the toplate that is thin then any motor would fit intot he car and have lots of room to move the motor for gearing. I looked at that but but I didn't have a way to put on a different side tensioner so I didn't do it. I just used the new Novak Ballistic motor since it fits great into the car.
Do you have a pic with the front tensioner on your side belt? I would like to see what you did because if it works I might order an extra front tensioner and setup my car like that. Then I will remove the standard side tensioner and make my own mount from the chassis to the toplate. Then any motor would work.
Do you have a pic with the front tensioner on your side belt? I would like to see what you did because if it works I might order an extra front tensioner and setup my car like that. Then I will remove the standard side tensioner and make my own mount from the chassis to the toplate. Then any motor would work.
Last edited by Pro10noob; 08-18-2009 at 11:48 AM.
08-18-2009, 09:29 AM
#2417
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So you just used the front bearings on the tensioner......I guess by looking your using the optional aluminum tensioner instead of the stock plastic one with the graphite.
Well tonight when I get home I will look at it all again. If I use the Novak Ballistic motors all the time I never need to worry about the tensioner again. If I want to use some of the other stuff out like the DUO or Tekin and want more motor rook I will need to work on that tensioner setup.
Ok I will be checking things out tonight after work.
Well tonight when I get home I will look at it all again. If I use the Novak Ballistic motors all the time I never need to worry about the tensioner again. If I want to use some of the other stuff out like the DUO or Tekin and want more motor rook I will need to work on that tensioner setup.
Ok I will be checking things out tonight after work.
08-18-2009, 10:22 AM
#2419
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Thanks Roy. I will look into it more tonight. Lets see what I can come up with. If I end up making something I will post pics.
08-18-2009, 03:40 PM
#2422
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Don't the 09 version car have a front belt tensioner?
08-18-2009, 03:50 PM
#2423
If anyone is looking for a good deal on an E4JS with spares... shoot me a PM.
08-18-2009, 04:30 PM
#2424
Yes if you need a front belt tensioner u can add it . Just look for 2 3mm holes in the middle of the front of the upper deck.
08-18-2009, 05:52 PM
#2425
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Man this thread has really come to life the last week or so. Lots of good info being shared. Look forward to running my car again this weekend. Just made some big changes on the speedo and even on the bench I see huge huge improvements and expect to see dividends from that this weekend.
08-18-2009, 07:39 PM
#2426
Man this thread has really come to life the last week or so. Lots of good info being shared. Look forward to running my car again this weekend. Just made some big changes on the speedo and even on the bench I see huge huge improvements and expect to see dividends from that this weekend.
How high and what hole?
08-18-2009, 08:20 PM
#2427
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Funny my car is setup pretty much stock. The only changes from where the car was stock is the following. Stock 1.5arm sweep set from factory.
Front 40wt oil with Tamiya Short blue springs. Shocks moved out one hole on the tower with 5mm ride height and 3mm of droop. Stock sway bars.
Rear 40wt oil with Tamiya Short yellow springs. Shocks layed in one hole on the tower. 5mm of ride height with 3mm of droop. 1mm shim under ball stud on the rear hub. Stock sway bars Stock 2.5 rear toe. Stock 3 degee caster blocks.
All shocks setup to have almost no rebound.
Thats pretty much the only things I have done for my track to get it really hooked up. It does have a on power push and could use a little more rotation in the rear but overall this setup was super stable for me.
I didn't really get to mess with my camber link postions, spacers under the camber links or change the roll centers under the toe blocks. I hope to mess with this more this weekend. Only bad thing is they put a new layout today so as far as lap times to look at all that changed.
I use the Mazda Speed 6 and at are track the SPec tire for the Nationals is the Jaco Blues which I'm currently running.
At this time all stock plastics that come on the FS car. Still has factory slop as well. All belt tensioners set tight enough so belts don't skip.
Let me know if I missed anything.
Front 40wt oil with Tamiya Short blue springs. Shocks moved out one hole on the tower with 5mm ride height and 3mm of droop. Stock sway bars.
Rear 40wt oil with Tamiya Short yellow springs. Shocks layed in one hole on the tower. 5mm of ride height with 3mm of droop. 1mm shim under ball stud on the rear hub. Stock sway bars Stock 2.5 rear toe. Stock 3 degee caster blocks.
All shocks setup to have almost no rebound.
Thats pretty much the only things I have done for my track to get it really hooked up. It does have a on power push and could use a little more rotation in the rear but overall this setup was super stable for me.
I didn't really get to mess with my camber link postions, spacers under the camber links or change the roll centers under the toe blocks. I hope to mess with this more this weekend. Only bad thing is they put a new layout today so as far as lap times to look at all that changed.
I use the Mazda Speed 6 and at are track the SPec tire for the Nationals is the Jaco Blues which I'm currently running.
At this time all stock plastics that come on the FS car. Still has factory slop as well. All belt tensioners set tight enough so belts don't skip.
Let me know if I missed anything.
08-18-2009, 10:46 PM
#2428
I believe you can.
A mate of mine has a E4RS 008 and replaced his topdeck with the 009 version with no problems.
The mounting holes are the same and there is no change in position of the tensioner.
If you want to be sure check your part number and give me a mail so i can compare it with what i have.
regards Roy
A mate of mine has a E4RS 008 and replaced his topdeck with the 009 version with no problems.
The mounting holes are the same and there is no change in position of the tensioner.
If you want to be sure check your part number and give me a mail so i can compare it with what i have.
regards Roy
08-19-2009, 07:32 AM
#2429
Funny my car is setup pretty much stock. The only changes from where the car was stock is the following. Stock 1.5arm sweep set from factory.
Front 40wt oil with Tamiya Short blue springs. Shocks moved out one hole on the tower with 5mm ride height and 3mm of droop. Stock sway bars.
Rear 40wt oil with Tamiya Short yellow springs. Shocks layed in one hole on the tower. 5mm of ride height with 3mm of droop. 1mm shim under ball stud on the rear hub. Stock sway bars Stock 2.5 rear toe. Stock 3 degee caster blocks.
All shocks setup to have almost no rebound.
Thats pretty much the only things I have done for my track to get it really hooked up. It does have a on power push and could use a little more rotation in the rear but overall this setup was super stable for me.
I didn't really get to mess with my camber link postions, spacers under the camber links or change the roll centers under the toe blocks. I hope to mess with this more this weekend. Only bad thing is they put a new layout today so as far as lap times to look at all that changed.
I use the Mazda Speed 6 and at are track the SPec tire for the Nationals is the Jaco Blues which I'm currently running.
At this time all stock plastics that come on the FS car. Still has factory slop as well. All belt tensioners set tight enough so belts don't skip.
Let me know if I missed anything.
Front 40wt oil with Tamiya Short blue springs. Shocks moved out one hole on the tower with 5mm ride height and 3mm of droop. Stock sway bars.
Rear 40wt oil with Tamiya Short yellow springs. Shocks layed in one hole on the tower. 5mm of ride height with 3mm of droop. 1mm shim under ball stud on the rear hub. Stock sway bars Stock 2.5 rear toe. Stock 3 degee caster blocks.
All shocks setup to have almost no rebound.
Thats pretty much the only things I have done for my track to get it really hooked up. It does have a on power push and could use a little more rotation in the rear but overall this setup was super stable for me.
I didn't really get to mess with my camber link postions, spacers under the camber links or change the roll centers under the toe blocks. I hope to mess with this more this weekend. Only bad thing is they put a new layout today so as far as lap times to look at all that changed.
I use the Mazda Speed 6 and at are track the SPec tire for the Nationals is the Jaco Blues which I'm currently running.
At this time all stock plastics that come on the FS car. Still has factory slop as well. All belt tensioners set tight enough so belts don't skip.
Let me know if I missed anything.
08-19-2009, 07:41 AM
#2430
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Its indoor asphalt and when alot of races show it has traction as high or higher than carpet. Its fine grain rice asphalt with almost no pores and only one tiny bump on the whole track which is not a problem even for 1/12th scales.
Once I try are new layout this week I might shorten the rear camber link on the rear hub if I need more rotation and possibly another spacer under the ball stud on the hub. Have to try the layout first.
Once I try are new layout this week I might shorten the rear camber link on the rear hub if I need more rotation and possibly another spacer under the ball stud on the hub. Have to try the layout first.