blis

We would slip the deans plug on Orig E4 up through the gap between the motor and the top plate.

3800 orion carbons, and also the LAZER 4000 with deans fit well for us.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Guys i stand corrected on the internal DR of the E4FS
I got one who was fitted with a middle poelie 17 and dif poelie 34.
I just looked into the manual of the E4FS and found out that standard you have a 18 teeth mainshaft poelie and on the middle shaft for the front belt you have the same 18 teeth poelie.
The diff poelie is still 34 teeth.
So the internal DR of the E4FS is 34 devided by 18 is 1.889!!!!
Keep this in mind if you find the correct FDR
If you want it to be DR 2 then you have to use part number 503236(this is 17 teeth) to get the DR of 2.

cheers Roy

Rock Racing

iTrader: (38)

I made it out to the track today and thought i would get a short video of the setup I currently have. Keep in mind that the track is very green and very very cold. Traction was low so I couldnt be as aggressive on the exiting. I think that it would end up closer to where i want it if the track was prepped.

So far so good with running a mod motor with the E4, the rear belt needs a little more tension so it wont skip but other than that the car seems ok. Ill try to get my setup posted if anyone wants a mod setup for a BIG track.

Check it out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3JtE7uoVJg

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I've been having a steering problem since a first ran the E4JS. At first, I thougt it was suspension slop from the plastic componeents. I replaced all the plastic arm holders and hubs to aluminum and shimmed out any slop. I still have the problem of the steering not centering right. I then thought it may be the servo but it is a KO low profile PDS-2413 which I doubt would have a centering problem. So it boils down to the servo saver. I tightened it as much as I can and it still gives me problems with inprecise centering and steering.

Would the K Factory aluminum single arm steering kit fix this problem? Is it possible to put a tighter more precise spring in the servo saver? Can I just eleminate the servo saver spring and have it as direct steering?

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

I have E4JS too and it never gave me centering issue. Did you check steering tie rod (toe angle)? make sure both rods are the same length. Also check if you have any broken parts and assembly is symmetric. The unbalanced (worn unevenly) tires may also cause this problem

RyeRey521

iTrader: (21)

Hey... this may be stupid but maybe so stupid your over looking it... Your servo Saver may be rubbing on your battery... The way I know my FS is set up, there is a tight fit between the battery and servo saver and I have had to shave down the front of the saver a little so there is no touching... If you you are having minimal touching possibly you have the torque to actually steer but when it comes to centering it perfectly it is binding up a little... Also make sure your servo saver is not at an awkward angle where it is at the mid point of pushing pulling you could get some weird responses if thats the case too...

RyeRey521

iTrader: (21)

Hey guys... Just curious as to who is running that plastic vent and who's just taping over those holes in the chassis...

Also, was wondering if anyone else had a problem with the turnbuckles breaking.. If so what do you suggest? just buying some some Ti ones?

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Well,

Did my debut with Tekin on the 13.5 Brushless class (2S lipo) Touring onroad 1/10 yesterday.

The track i raced its kinda big for 13.5, we race a national championship consisting on 17 races over the whole year (yeah, long champ.) and you eliminate your 2 worst results. Layout its changed every 4 races, with extra layout for last stage.

This is the layout i raced yesterday :



Second race i will miss it due to Job assignment.

Back straight its 198 feet long.

My equipment :

Car : Team Magic E4RS2009
Tires : Rubber Alpha RC - Hard1 Compound
Batteries : 5.200mah H-Energy ROAR Lipo 7.4v 2S pack
Body : Mazda 6 Speed

ESC : Tekin RS PRO
Motor : Tekin 13,5 Redline
FDR : 5,75

ESC Programming (v203) :

Motor : BL-FW
REV. Strength : OFF
Drag Brake : OFF
Throttle Profile : 1
Timing Boost : 30
Turbo : MAX
Delay : 0,8
Turbo Ramp : 2,0
Start RPM : 4.812
End RPM : 13.570


Qualified 2nd position, but on final rounds i got problems with my receiver after a hit from another car, so ended 4th place on A-Main, very happy with performance of the car and motor/ESC as clearly i was one of the fastest on track (winner was Tekin, second place Tekin, third place LRP).

Next race for me, February 7th.

cya !!!

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Just raced my E4RS for the 1st time yesterday. Small club track. Asphalt, low traction. I took off the k factory spur gear cause Ididn't have any 64 pitch spur gears. I will get to the questions in a second. I was running a 69/39 gearing. Running a fantom 17.5 brushless with a LRP Sphere ESC. I have a pro tek 3800mah 30c lipo. Running RP 36 compound tires. After running the car a couple laps I couldn't find traction to save my life. Ever! Noone out here has a Team Magic car so I have no friends to refer to as to how it should be setup. I took the rear sway bar off. Put on Associated Electric green rear springs. 40wt oil in front and rear. Ride height of 6.5 in front and 7 in rear. Droop of 4 in rear and 2 in front. Not used to such a complicated car. New to TC as well.

1st, other than wolf hobbies are there any other usa dealers? 2, what is a good place to start for setup under the previous conditions? I was told to look up a setup for a wet condition track and start there. According to the manual, my internal drive is 2.0588. When I do the math, I am at like 3.62 FDR. I can't say I have seen such a slow car! This thing was slooooow. Considering I am a beginner, are there any reads on the geometry of this car and how it works? Also, when I pulled the car off the track from a 5 minute heat, the temp was 135 F.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Are you using a droop gauge to measure? If so the higher the number, the less you droop you have. What you want is more droop in the rear if you are not getting enough rear traction. So you're numbers for the rear should be about 2 or 3 and maybe 4 or 5 for the front. Also you're ride height should be less in the rear than it is in the front. Try doing 6mm in front and 5mm in rear. Also for outdoor asphalt go 30 or 35wt.

As for speed, I think your FDR is too high. You need to come down to like 4.0or more. Is your track big or small? Also were the other guys using the Tekin RS or LRP SPX speed control? I raced last week Sat and my car was extremely slow too. Turns out that my ESC is now out of date and that everyone is now using the new adjustable timing ESCs which changes the whole ball game. The FDR for that set-up is now around 6 - 7. Talk to Solara about the new tech.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

You should start with a FDR of about 4.5 on a small track.
Drop ride hight to 5mm front and 6 rear.
Use Sorex 28 tires all arround and put shocks rear on the inside hole on the shocktower.
Front on the outside hole.
Rear turnbucles on the inside position on you hubs and on the middle hole on your bulkhead with 3mm spacer under it on the bulkhead side.
This should give you more tracktion and a good starting point for further improvements.

cheers Roy

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

I am not using a droop gauge to measure. I am waiting for it to show up to my house. I do have a ride height gauge and I just lift 1 end of the car and check it that way for now. I used such a high ride height because the track is pretty bumpy. I allready sheared off my rear swaybar mount on the arm!

The track I run on is small! Straight away is like 80 feet. I am not sure what speedo the other folks are running. That isn't my problem! Problem is traction and gearing. It's a stock, novice class. Are you running 48 pitch gears? THe guys at the track were saying I am geared to high.

Are the stock springs okay to run all the way around? I just stumbled across the K Factory parts. Didn't know they were for the TM cars. Everyone out at my track either runs cyclones or xrays. The little I have read on this thread, tells me people are using Tamiya springs. Half tempted to buy the k factory spring kit, but won't ever need the harder springs!

Thanks for the info! Keep it coming! Vinny

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Between Dude, And Noob, I got 2 different answers. Should the front be higher than the rear or vice versa? I allways though you would have the front lower than the rear. Please elaborate! I did read a bit of this thread allready. I just need to find time to sit down and spend a day or so reading. There's alot of info on here about the car. Just thought I might be able to get some answers to at least get me through the track until I have time to do so.

Thank you very much for the responses!

So..
1. What's a good spring selection for low and medium asphalt?
2. 48 pitch gears or 64? Is there a better between the 2 or just an ability to "finer tune" the FDR?
3. Are the wider belts better to run? Or the special K Factory expensive ones?
4. As far as gearing goes, Where's a good place to start?

Again, Thanks, really wanna woop some butt but need to learn more about the car. Any insight you can think of would be awesome! Vinny

Rockpyle

iTrader: (23)

For the spring selection a lot of guys run the Team magic pink front and purple rears. I personally run corally springs 19lb fronts and 12.5lb rears (you have to use trimmed down associated spring cups for the longer springs) with 50 wt front and 30 wt rear losi oils.

For asphalt I ran around 6mm ride height with 2mm drop over ride height (less if track is smooth but never under 5)
For carpet I run 5mm with 2mm droop

One thing I did was add about 3 or 4mm of shims to the front camber links where they mount in the front shock tower. It helps tame down the steering.

Also a tip is to soak all of the bearings in denatured alcohol over night they come with really thick grease in them. This will help to free up the drive train. Also the k-factory belts will help and run them just tight enough so they don't skip.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

From my experience i always have a lower front end of the car then the rear.
If the rear is lower then the front you get irratic steering(hope i spelled that one right)
I use the TM springs on my cars with 350cps oil in the shocks at the rear and 400 at the front(i like a harder front end)
For the gears, i use 48 on outdoor tracks because of dirt and small debrees getting between the gear teeth and distroying the 64dp gears.
Indoor i use 64 as it is smoother and not so loud.
I myself still use the standard belt supplied with the kit and last season i ripped just the front belt but that was because a pebble was in my front spool poulie.
As i said before begin with a FDR of 4.5 on a small track as you have.
We have a 135 feet back straight and drive with a FDR of 4.25 tot 4.5 and that is with 10.5 with 5 cells.
If you drive a 17.5 with lipo it is a good starting point at 4.5.
As fas as the ESC, the "new"generation ESC's have a lot of timing that gives the motor a freaky high RPM.
So if you have a "normall" esc with no stock maps in them you loose a lot against the guys who are running them.
This is also why your gearing can be way off.
For example,when running a LRP SPX stock spec ESC with a GM 10.5 motor we gear to a FDR of 4.27.
If i use a GM ESC and the GM motor i can gear up to 4.4 to 4.5 as the GM has kind of a boost in the ESC.
If you use a Tekin ESC with a 10.5 motor you should gear up to 5.0 or even higher as this ESC revs the motor up very high.
I have seen Tekin esc with a 13.5 motor and the new software(v203)going faster then the Tekin with 10.5 and then V200 software.
It all depends on more things then just the gearing,esc or motor.
For traction on low to med tracks you have to find out playing with tires.
You should try the sorex 28 or 24 for the low traction(cold track) and perhaps the sorex 32 for med traction(or if it gets warmer).
Try,try and try even more.
It is the way to get to know the car,how it handles and how it reacts to the changes.
You can always drop me a PB if you want.

cheers Roy