CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#631
The key to running on asphalt is tires and traction compound. On our somewhat clean tracks here in FL we run pink or double pink rears and double pink fronts. White rears will wear out in one run.
For traction compound the best thing to do is Paragon Ground FX for 15 min on the whole rear and inside 1/3rd of the fronts followed by suntan lotion over the same ares for another 15 min. Just put a layer so its coated and you cant see the foam through it. In 15 min most of the suntan lotion will dissolve and soak into the tire. Before running just wipe the tires off really well and you will be amazed.
Running just Paragon will pick up a lot of dust. The suntan lotions stops that and dramatically improves traction on dusty parking lots.
I have been running pan cars (Pro-10, 1/12 and now WGT) on asphalt since 1988 and no one has ever come up with a better traction compound treatment than paragon and suntan lotion.
For traction compound the best thing to do is Paragon Ground FX for 15 min on the whole rear and inside 1/3rd of the fronts followed by suntan lotion over the same ares for another 15 min. Just put a layer so its coated and you cant see the foam through it. In 15 min most of the suntan lotion will dissolve and soak into the tire. Before running just wipe the tires off really well and you will be amazed.
Running just Paragon will pick up a lot of dust. The suntan lotions stops that and dramatically improves traction on dusty parking lots.
I have been running pan cars (Pro-10, 1/12 and now WGT) on asphalt since 1988 and no one has ever come up with a better traction compound treatment than paragon and suntan lotion.
Also, how would rubber tires respond to that treatment?
#632
ive used the sunblock method for the first time and it really does work. i just massaged the sunblock into the foam till it goes away then let it seat till it dries.
will try the paragon/sunblock method next and see how much more grip i can get.
will try the paragon/sunblock method next and see how much more grip i can get.
#633
Guest
Carpet racing
Does anyone have any other carpet setups for the gen x 10??
#634
#635
Guest
#636
try this tommys car was on rails in ohio \\\
I'll try to get all of my setup on here, if I miss anything let me know.
Front end
middle track width hole
long wheelbase
trailing axles
standard upper arm
full caster
2 deg camber
10 deg blocks
blue spring (same as side spring)
king pin length - .580 from bottom of steering block to e-clip groove
10,000 silicone on kingpins
used the middle hole on the graphite steering arms for the tie rod
kimbrough mid size servo saver (not sure if it makes a difference or not)
CRC front end stiffener plate (p/n 1785)
Center
shock - 35 wt oil and 30 lb spring
shock in kit location (second hole from bottom)
battery all the way forward
Rear
tubes - 10,000 wt (blue cap)
red side springs - about 1 turn preload
wide body mount plates (p/n 1771)
2 .020 shims under the front of the side links (you have to re-set the football to do this) for a little rear steer.
Ride Height 4.25mm all the way around
Tires
2.08 front and rear
front glued all the way to the edge - 7/8 traction compound
rear "safety" glue (just the seam between plastic and foam) - full traction compound
You can run less front traction and less glue, but I found a little more corner speed doing it this way. At club race grip levels I ran less traction and less glue. Dont try to run that much traction unless you have the front glued all the way up, I tried, it wasn't pretty.
Very little dual rate, used more than 3/4 or the lane to do a u-turn
Protoforn Sophia body
I ran a JR 3550 servo and it seems plenty strong enough for these bigger cars.
The car was easy and fun to drive. Again, if I forgot any aspect of the setup, let me know and I'll get it on here.
Front end
middle track width hole
long wheelbase
trailing axles
standard upper arm
full caster
2 deg camber
10 deg blocks
blue spring (same as side spring)
king pin length - .580 from bottom of steering block to e-clip groove
10,000 silicone on kingpins
used the middle hole on the graphite steering arms for the tie rod
kimbrough mid size servo saver (not sure if it makes a difference or not)
CRC front end stiffener plate (p/n 1785)
Center
shock - 35 wt oil and 30 lb spring
shock in kit location (second hole from bottom)
battery all the way forward
Rear
tubes - 10,000 wt (blue cap)
red side springs - about 1 turn preload
wide body mount plates (p/n 1771)
2 .020 shims under the front of the side links (you have to re-set the football to do this) for a little rear steer.
Ride Height 4.25mm all the way around
Tires
2.08 front and rear
front glued all the way to the edge - 7/8 traction compound
rear "safety" glue (just the seam between plastic and foam) - full traction compound
You can run less front traction and less glue, but I found a little more corner speed doing it this way. At club race grip levels I ran less traction and less glue. Dont try to run that much traction unless you have the front glued all the way up, I tried, it wasn't pretty.
Very little dual rate, used more than 3/4 or the lane to do a u-turn
Protoforn Sophia body
I ran a JR 3550 servo and it seems plenty strong enough for these bigger cars.
The car was easy and fun to drive. Again, if I forgot any aspect of the setup, let me know and I'll get it on here.
#637
#638
Tech Initiate
Reading through that setup now, there is one thing I missed. I used the 3277 Gen-X Front end brace and cut the center piece out. So the upper arm mounts were raised 2mm. I'm not sure if that would drastically change the handling of the car but I just figured I would post it.
There are a few guys running a slightly different setup that seems to work pretty good, but I haven't tried it yet. Bigger tires, no glue, less camber, and 1/12 king pins and springs.
2.15 tires, no glue
about 1/2 to 1 deg camber
.45mm front springs
Just something to try if you guys want.
There are a few guys running a slightly different setup that seems to work pretty good, but I haven't tried it yet. Bigger tires, no glue, less camber, and 1/12 king pins and springs.
2.15 tires, no glue
about 1/2 to 1 deg camber
.45mm front springs
Just something to try if you guys want.
#639
Tom, I greatly appreciate you posting your setup. It was perfect timing. I got a Gen-X 10 for xmas (not really, I got it after returning the stuff I got for xmas).
Although I haven't been able to completely dup your setup (waiting for springs,etc from CRC) , I was able to best my time at the local track in a race with only 10 practice laps on the car, with a setup pretty close to yours. The setup is easy to drive and I expect it to be faster when I get the stiffer springs in.
Anyhow, other than saying "thanks!", I wanted to ask you about the "rear-steer" you use. I haven't tried it without, so I don't know what effect it has on the car.. I mentioned to some of the other local racers, but none of them have ever used it. Can you comment on what it gets you (feel)? Also, is it a tuning parameter to be "fast" through the corners (just seems like it would be)?
Although I haven't been able to completely dup your setup (waiting for springs,etc from CRC) , I was able to best my time at the local track in a race with only 10 practice laps on the car, with a setup pretty close to yours. The setup is easy to drive and I expect it to be faster when I get the stiffer springs in.
Anyhow, other than saying "thanks!", I wanted to ask you about the "rear-steer" you use. I haven't tried it without, so I don't know what effect it has on the car.. I mentioned to some of the other local racers, but none of them have ever used it. Can you comment on what it gets you (feel)? Also, is it a tuning parameter to be "fast" through the corners (just seems like it would be)?
Reading through that setup now, there is one thing I missed. I used the 3277 Gen-X Front end brace and cut the center piece out. So the upper arm mounts were raised 2mm. I'm not sure if that would drastically change the handling of the car but I just figured I would post it.
There are a few guys running a slightly different setup that seems to work pretty good, but I haven't tried it yet. Bigger tires, no glue, less camber, and 1/12 king pins and springs.
2.15 tires, no glue
about 1/2 to 1 deg camber
.45mm front springs
Just something to try if you guys want.
There are a few guys running a slightly different setup that seems to work pretty good, but I haven't tried it yet. Bigger tires, no glue, less camber, and 1/12 king pins and springs.
2.15 tires, no glue
about 1/2 to 1 deg camber
.45mm front springs
Just something to try if you guys want.
#640
Guest
Tom
Hi tom! Will the long arm set up fit on the gen x 10? Is the part3277 for the gen x 10??
#641
Tech Initiate
Right now the only way to put the long upper arm setup on the car is with the 3277 front end brace. The 3277 is made for the width of the Gen-X 12 front end, so it has to be modified to work. Just cut the center brace out with a dremel, and then use the 2 pieces seperately on the left and right sides. That is what I have on my car, but I'm running the standard length upper arm.
The rear steer is something I first tried a couple years ago and have run it on all my cars for the most part since then. Where it seems to have the most effect is exiting the corner. It lets me get back on throttle earlier coming out of the corner without pushing toward the outside wall. It almost gave the car a feeling of having a tether attaching it to the corner. The car also carries a little more speed through a high speed sweeper. It forced me to use much less steering input on the radio through the sweeper.
Since this car came out and we started testing it, it seemed to me like these 1/10 cars are just super stuck in the back (at least with the spec tires). With a 1/12 car, you can get a "free" feeling where you have a good balance of front and rear grip. The 1/10 car is just bolted in the back, so the rear steer to me seemed like a good way to get the car to rotate. That "stuck" feeling is also what made me try such soft front springs, more camber, and more traction compound on the front tires.
The rear steer is something I first tried a couple years ago and have run it on all my cars for the most part since then. Where it seems to have the most effect is exiting the corner. It lets me get back on throttle earlier coming out of the corner without pushing toward the outside wall. It almost gave the car a feeling of having a tether attaching it to the corner. The car also carries a little more speed through a high speed sweeper. It forced me to use much less steering input on the radio through the sweeper.
Since this car came out and we started testing it, it seemed to me like these 1/10 cars are just super stuck in the back (at least with the spec tires). With a 1/12 car, you can get a "free" feeling where you have a good balance of front and rear grip. The 1/10 car is just bolted in the back, so the rear steer to me seemed like a good way to get the car to rotate. That "stuck" feeling is also what made me try such soft front springs, more camber, and more traction compound on the front tires.
#642
hey, How are TRC brand foam tires compared to JACO brand?
also has anyone used the RC4LESS brand foams, they say its made of a rubber compound so does that mean its better for asphalt use?
thanks in advance.
also has anyone used the RC4LESS brand foams, they say its made of a rubber compound so does that mean its better for asphalt use?
thanks in advance.
#643
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
late model TRC tires are made by Jaco and are on a black wheel. Some early model TRC are still left on a greenish/yellow wheel made by GRP.
RC4less tires have the same foam as GRP and I am told are made by GRP. They come a larger diameter than GRP on oranage wheels and grip slightly more than Jaco, color for color. Note more grip is not always wanted. Now if I can find a body color other than black to go with those orange wheels.
john
RC4less tires have the same foam as GRP and I am told are made by GRP. They come a larger diameter than GRP on oranage wheels and grip slightly more than Jaco, color for color. Note more grip is not always wanted. Now if I can find a body color other than black to go with those orange wheels.
john
#644
late model TRC tires are made by Jaco and are on a black wheel. Some early model TRC are still left on a greenish/yellow wheel made by GRP.
RC4less tires have the same foam as GRP and I am told are made by GRP. They come a larger diameter than GRP on oranage wheels and grip slightly more than Jaco, color for color. Note more grip is not always wanted. Now if I can find a body color other than black to go with those orange wheels.
john
RC4less tires have the same foam as GRP and I am told are made by GRP. They come a larger diameter than GRP on oranage wheels and grip slightly more than Jaco, color for color. Note more grip is not always wanted. Now if I can find a body color other than black to go with those orange wheels.
john
once again thank you john for the fast and informative respones.
#645
going thru the thread couldnt find the part # for the spring kit for the fronts and rears. anyone remember the number by any chance.