InspGadgt

Got my new Gen-X 10 LE and Slider pod upgrade Now just to get it ready in time for the IIC

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Burt,

That's great that you got the latest LE kit with all the updated parts.

Have to order one for myself to build up a new car.

Bill

Cancun Tom

Guys, cannot thank you enough for all the help with this project. I was going to do test #4 today using capped BSR's and front steer, but the monsoon rains have returned so maybe tomorrow. Here is the current body I'm running and then below that is a link to some detailed shots of the chassis and component arrangements.



Details slide show............

http://s561.photobucket.com/user/can...GEN%20X%20LE10

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Tom,

Thanks for the batch of detailed pictures.

What is holding your steering servo in place? I assume that it is glued; but, want to be sure.

Would suggest...
1) that your servo be moved at least an 1/8-3/16" further forward to obtain better geometry of your steering links (going from servo saver to steering arms on blocks).
2) that you connect the links at the middle holes of the steering arms.

With what you have, the geometry of inside wheel movement can sometimes get real sloppy the further you crank over the steering. Proper Ackermann steering should have its steering links straight or slightly swept the opposite way.

Cheers!

Bill

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

It looks great, Tom.

I'll make a further suggestion on the steering servo, though: remove it from the car and use it for a paperweight, or maybe a sinker if you're into fishing. I've got two of those HS-225MG servos, and both are way too slow for a race car.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Great pics Tom. Here's my thoughts...

I think a better servo would suite you better. Even a Futaba 9650 second hand would work well.

I wouldn't worry about forward mounting the servo. I find the angled servo in the std position easiest to drive. Plus it will make getting your ackerman and linkage angles simpler. If you do keep the servo and the location you have I would do like other have suggested and move it forward and move the balls to the middle holes instead of the top. I would also move the balls on the steering knuckles to the middle hole and raise them up maybe 2-4 mm so that the ends are higher at the knuckle than they are at the servo saver. It looks now like the kimbrough 114 servo saver you're using might be rubbing on the chassis which can make things hairy. The second way you show the servo mounted looks ok; I might only raise the balls to the middle holes in the servo saver with that orientation.

Check to see that your shock isn't rubbing the battery near the front as the pod articulates. It looks close.

I would think a sensored system might be a little more drivable. Lots of sensorless systems jump aggressively from off-throttle to on-throttle positions.

I don't have any experience with 10th pan outdoors, but my 12th on asphalt usually feels more stable in the rear with softer side springs. You might consider trying a white or blue side spring and a white or blue center spring with AE or Losi 30 wt oil. I'd probably start with a .50 spring up front, or if you wanna use the longer 10th scale kingpins, a white side spring. I would also consider trying the long front arms as well. If you cut the center out of the H brace it will fit the wide front end and you can both raise the upper arm, and mount the long arms, both of which will reduce camber gain and I would think give the car less aggressive and more predictable steering.

I hope I'm not stepping on any toes with all of the ideas; just hoping to be helpful.

AWD

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hey Tom,

Just checked your pictures again and noted how you have the servo saver attached to the servo with a screw and metal washer. Does the saver move and return to center as you have it assembled?

I have created this issue myself and just suggest that you check that the servo saver is able to function. With this servo, I believe it is likely best that you use the Phillips head screw that came with the unit.

Otherwise, the internal workings of that servo may get damaged in an impact.

FYI...I am not a fan of that servo either. But, you are just doing oval with friends; so, have at it amigo!

Bill

jason cheng

iTrader: (85)

Whats the axel length on the crc wgt car center to center/ front to back anyone know?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hi Jason,

I am not sure what you are asking...

Wheelbase (front to back) is adjustable on the CRC WGT cars.

Or...

Do you need to know something about the rear axle?

Bill

Cancun Tom

Bill, Howard, & Andrew......can't thank you enough. All suggested accomplised except changing of the servo for lack for another that will fit. Here is the link to the detailed photo's:

http://s561.photobucket.com/user/can...20LE10/changes

I'm off to the track for Test session #4

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Tom,

How are the rubber tires handling for you?

Bill

Cancun Tom

The tires were a huge improvement. But I feel it was a combination of all the stuff you guys pointed me in the right direction about. I videoed it and will post it tomorrow I hope. This was the irst time I was mostly happy with the handling with this project. Somehow I managed to scuff/flat spot the right rear. I'll add the "after" still pix to the Photobucket slide show in a few minutes.

Cancun Tom

Just back from test session #4 of my CRC X 10LE with the latest changes. Very much improved. Still a few spinouts but I think most were caused by running over small rocks on the track and some driver error.

Cancun Tom

It took me a day to edit the footage of Sunday's test session. I make all the suggested changes. Raised the servo so it wouldn't rub the chassis. Changed to the center holes in the saver and also on the steering arms. Put the proper screw in the servo saver so it would work properly. Changed to white side springs. Changed to BSR capped tires. Rears are Green "S" kevlars, fronts are White "L" feather lites. Handling was much improved. If the track was wider I think that I could go flat out all the way around. I still had some spins but most were either caused by small rocks on the track surface (see video) or driver error. They increased after about 10 mins. of running as the dirt/dust built up on the tires. I flat spotted the right rear somehow????
All said it was a fun test. For #5 I plan to return to the foam tires as I feel I can get them to work eventually. Any further suggestions, tips, etc. would be very welcomed. Thanks guys!
http://youtu.be/-1dH0T_ieZ0

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The Car is good, but you need to run on a prepped track and see what happens.....