CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#3017
Tech Addict
I used the 1/10 long kingpins on the front and ran the white side springs.
Some guys use the 1/12 kingpins and run .50 fronts.
I liked the feel of the bigger/longer spring.
The dampener tubes were raised 1/2" on the graphite side plates.
Then I mounted them on the top of the upper pod graphite plate.
The rear graphite side plates had to be raised to .65" in order to give enough room to move the side springs over the links. (you can use 5/8 standoffs and a washer).
To sum it up...
When I did this, the car would have alot of chassis roll, but wouldn't diff out or become upset in the turns on a high bite track. I can drive it like a 1/12
Some guys use the 1/12 kingpins and run .50 fronts.
I liked the feel of the bigger/longer spring.
The dampener tubes were raised 1/2" on the graphite side plates.
Then I mounted them on the top of the upper pod graphite plate.
The rear graphite side plates had to be raised to .65" in order to give enough room to move the side springs over the links. (you can use 5/8 standoffs and a washer).
To sum it up...
When I did this, the car would have alot of chassis roll, but wouldn't diff out or become upset in the turns on a high bite track. I can drive it like a 1/12
#3018
#3019
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (37)
I used the 1/10 long kingpins on the front and ran the white side springs.
Some guys use the 1/12 kingpins and run .50 fronts.
I liked the feel of the bigger/longer spring.
The dampener tubes were raised 1/2" on the graphite side plates.
Then I mounted them on the top of the upper pod graphite plate.
The rear graphite side plates had to be raised to .65" in order to give enough room to move the side springs over the links. (you can use 5/8 standoffs and a washer).
To sum it up...
When I did this, the car would have alot of chassis roll, but wouldn't diff out or become upset in the turns on a high bite track. I can drive it like a 1/12
Some guys use the 1/12 kingpins and run .50 fronts.
I liked the feel of the bigger/longer spring.
The dampener tubes were raised 1/2" on the graphite side plates.
Then I mounted them on the top of the upper pod graphite plate.
The rear graphite side plates had to be raised to .65" in order to give enough room to move the side springs over the links. (you can use 5/8 standoffs and a washer).
To sum it up...
When I did this, the car would have alot of chassis roll, but wouldn't diff out or become upset in the turns on a high bite track. I can drive it like a 1/12
#3021
I have them just kissing the side links.
I also dropped my tube lube from 50k (when I ran the springs in the stock position) to 7K in this position.
Try feeling your car as is, then remove 1 tube and feel it, then remove the other tube.
Mine feels like almost no dampening. The springs out that far keeps the car in controll and the tube angle and "softer" lube lets it roll alot.
Maybe the way I worded it made it sound like just by moving the springs made the car roll that much, it was a combination of spring location, major reduction in tube lube, and tube angle.
#3022
Tech Addict
crc wgt
So what are others saying about your setup? have you seen others doing this?
#3023
For me it fits my driving style and is easier to drive
At my local track everyone has switched to this set up and feels the car is easier to drive and doesn't lift or diff out when the traction is high.
#3027
#3028
I'd guess with a 96 spur around 40 or so to start. Check temps to keep around 130 after the race.
Our club track is 90 x 40 and I run max. timing on a D3.5 with a 44-88 with 2.06" tires.
On tighter layouts I run a 96 spur.
#3029
Tech Fanatic
Why a 96 spur? Does the pinion change to keep the @3.23 roll out?
I remember somewhere hearing the relationship of the pinion to spur didn't matter if the ratio was the same. ie 44/88 should be the same as a 40/80.
I remember somewhere hearing the relationship of the pinion to spur didn't matter if the ratio was the same. ie 44/88 should be the same as a 40/80.