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Old 01-07-2011, 08:21 AM   #1396
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Where are the 2-56 x 1/4" button head screws that adjust the fit on each end of the link? Those have to be there.
I noticed that too

without them the arms float
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:39 AM   #1397
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Where are the 2-56 x 1/4" button head screws that adjust the fit on each end of the link? Those have to be there.
good catch, there are none in any picture. freeplay could certainly make the links act as if they are of different length.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:05 AM   #1398
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Where are the 2-56 x 1/4" button head screws that adjust the fit on each end of the link? Those have to be there.
They are removed, but when assembled they are in. You mean this, yes?

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Old 01-07-2011, 09:08 AM   #1399
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Thanks!!!

I would like to thanks Dumper for answering my questions. It's nice knowing a team driver will take the time out of his schedule to follow the thread.

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Old 01-07-2011, 09:13 AM   #1400
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in the first picture, the countersink on the left in the pod plate looks out of round, or is that an illusion?


if there is no visible damage, then just swap parts from left to right to see if the problem follows. if you switch links from left to right, does the gap stay on the left side or does it move with the link?
No it is illusion... It is round...

Gap stays on the left side no matter what I change...
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:19 AM   #1401
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No it is illusion... It is round...

Gap stays on the left side no matter what I change...
if swapping links/pivots doesn't matter then the problem must be with the plates. the gap between the main chassis plate and battery tray looks even, so maybe it is the pod plate?

you didn't mention it, but i presume the plates lay flat on a surface. i suppose the pod endplates could be shifted to warp the lower pod plate and make that gap uneven.

i suppose the next step is to borrow parts from somebody elses car? maybe swap pods with someone?
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:28 PM   #1402
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The problem is that you are not using a CRC bottom plate. That is some sort of bad looking knock-off. Try replacing it with a real CRC bottom plate.

While you are at it, I would replace the links, balls and screws as well. You are running on pavement and those parts go through a lot of stress.



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Old 01-07-2011, 02:47 PM   #1403
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Well that bottom plate looks like Manutech to me.
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:12 PM   #1404
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The problem is that you are not using a CRC bottom plate. That is some sort of bad looking knock-off. Try replacing it with a real CRC bottom plate.

While you are at it, I would replace the links, balls and screws as well. You are running on pavement and those parts go through a lot of stress.



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Yes, you are right I am using this one

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Catalog_...l?catId=362901

I have changed to this one because I broke two original CRC bottom plates in no time... But I will try to change to original CRC as now I drive a little bit better... I have another CRC Gen X 10 which drives my son. So I will try to disassemble both cars and interchange parts to see what happen... I am only one at that track with CRC. Others run BMIs...

Thank you all for suggestions and help!
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:27 PM   #1405
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Well that bottom plate looks like Manutech to me.
please do not go around bashing peoples products without knowing the facts. ManuTech puts out quality parts and accessories for many different cars, and the guy who runs it is a true perfectionist. i have never gotten a bad piece from him, and he deserves better.
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:56 PM   #1406
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You got me completely wrong. I never said something bad about Manutech, actually I meant exactly the opposite when I said this looks like Manutech.
If you look at the rear left side of the podplate this one is strengthened as the Manutech so it looks very similar. I think very few people will even know there are some other podplates available beside CRC and Manutech.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:33 PM   #1407
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please do not go around bashing peoples products without knowing the facts. ManuTech puts out quality parts and accessories for many different cars, and the guy who runs it is a true perfectionist. i have never gotten a bad piece from him, and he deserves better.
Likewise - John Stranahan builds quality parts as well. I think the issue is crash damage/user adjustment. If you look at the countersink hole on the link attachment for the hub side of the rear pod plate, there is some sort of build-up of CA or something in the bevel of the countesink hole (this particular hole was cut off the top of the members original picture). This will cause the screw to be other than perpendicular to the chassis plate. This particular instance moved the link point forward and tightened up the gap on the hub side of the pod plate. The openings in the current set of sidelinks have to be out of tolerance as a result.

I have tried making these type of repairs in the past. If you can't certainely repair the countersink to the centerline of the hole in precisely the original location, scrap the part and get it replaced. I don't think you would have the issue any more if you got the new piece from CRC, Manutech or Stranahan.

The user needs to get the proper countersink bit, clean out both holes for the pod link attachments, install new screws and pivot balls (upgrade to steel preferably if you race outdoor), new football and new sidelinks. If the gap is then not corrected, insert the new piece from one of the above manufacturers, then try not to crash so hard!

Another point to consider in general fit and finish - use the same hardware throughout your car!!!! These pictures show 4 differents types of screws. EECCKKKK! No matter what you think, there is no way they all fit the countersink hole exactly the same way!
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:21 AM   #1408
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Likewise - John Stranahan builds quality parts as well.
I would think the same!

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I think the issue is crash damage/user adjustment.
It is for sure. And I stated this in my first post. Before two last crashes my CRC was nice to drive and I was putting my best laps with it. I am newbie in WGT and do not have enough knowledge about settings or adjustments. There is no local parts support for CRC so it is not simple to get or change something easily or quickly... I am ordering parts from USA so before ordering something I would like to be 99% sure this part or parts are my problem

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If you look at the countersink hole on the link attachment for the hub side of the rear pod plate, there is some sort of build-up of CA or something in the bevel of the countesink hole (this particular hole was cut off the top of the members original picture). This will cause the screw to be other than perpendicular to the chassis plate. This particular instance moved the link point forward and tightened up the gap on the hub side of the pod plate. The openings in the current set of sidelinks have to be out of tolerance as a result.

I have tried making these type of repairs in the past. If you can't certainely repair the countersink to the centerline of the hole in precisely the original location, scrap the part and get it replaced. I don't think you would have the issue any more if you got the new piece from CRC, Manutech or Stranahan.

The user needs to get the proper countersink bit, clean out both holes for the pod link attachments, install new screws and pivot balls (upgrade to steel preferably if you race outdoor), new football and new sidelinks. If the gap is then not corrected, insert the new piece from one of the above manufacturers, then try not to crash so hard!

Another point to consider in general fit and finish - use the same hardware throughout your car!!!! These pictures show 4 differents types of screws. EECCKKKK! No matter what you think, there is no way they all fit the countersink hole exactly the same way!
Screws are steel screws from RCScrewz Kit... I try to change original screws step by step in symmetric manner.

What is making me think that something is tweaked badly is that difference in both sides are big...

I will try to change bit by bit and see what will cure my problem... And then order these parts.

Thank you for suggestions! And I will try to not crash that hard anymore
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:00 AM   #1409
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may just about finished puttin my car together man i love it cant wait to hit the track in the next day or to
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:48 AM   #1410
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may just about finished puttin my car together man i love it cant wait to hit the track in the next day or to
Just chime in if you need any help...Dumper's (Brian Wynn's) 2010 IIC setup posted on the CRC website is a great starting point for a high traction carpet track. I only needed to backoff on a few things for lesser traction conditions. The 1/12th scale king pins and 50-55# front springs are gold on carpet setups and only costs about $6 to convert.
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