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Old 01-05-2011, 04:17 PM   #1381
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Thanks Dumper, I look forward to moving to onroad soon.


This forum may be biased but is the CRC pretty much the top dog for pan cars?
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:47 PM   #1382
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Thanks Dumper, I look forward to moving to onroad soon.


This forum may be biased but is the CRC pretty much the top dog for pan cars?
They have amazing success in 12th scale. I am not sure about the 1/10 pan but it shares the same basic design.and even quite a.few parts so.should also be very fast...
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:07 PM   #1383
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Thanks Dumper, I look forward to moving to onroad soon.


This forum may be biased but is the CRC pretty much the top dog for pan cars?
The performance of the link pan cars is all about the same. In 1/10 Pro10 racing we have Xray, AE 10R, AE10L, and CRC GenX all running competatively. There was some Corally in the mix too (T-Bar).
After some of the 5 min races, 6 of the top ten drivers were all within 4 seconds of each other, and the rest were barely a lap down (on a 12 second lap).
They appear to be simple cars, but the small details really count when setting them up. A .5 turn somewhere can make all the difference.

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:38 AM   #1384
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Hi,

need some help! I can not repair my CRC after few bad crashes... As you can see in the picture upper marked area has much smaller gap than lower marked area... What part I have to change to be able to correct this? Thank you for any help...

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Old 01-06-2011, 04:19 AM   #1385
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If you can set the end points on your TX then adjust the brake so it is just enough to slow the car into a corner without spinning it, this can be helpful at times, but basically you are using the front end for cornering and not the brakes, so start with the 5š negative blocks and put 2 spacers behind the upper arms for less castor, this gives you the turn in without the hooking (pulling around ) effect coming out of corners (you may even exit a corner with power on understeer).
Unlike a TC where you have to balance the front and rear to work together in harmony, on a pan car the front and rear work independentely with the weight movement of the battery/electrics to balance the two ends.
Thanks guys. Am still on the build process... right now doing the front pro-stut assembly. Unfortunately "Bag F" has only 5 pieces of teflon caster shims (#1253) for the front hinge pin . The manual requires 3 pieces for both the left and right arms. I replaced them temporarily with the plastic shims from my XRay, inside hole is bigger but it will do for now until the teflon shims arrived from an on-line shop.

Got a question though... how long should I thread the kingpin (holding the conical spring) into the steering block. The manual says to thread it until the spring touches the lower arm pivot ball. Will that be enough for the preload on the springs?
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:54 AM   #1386
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Hi,

need some help! I can not repair my CRC after few bad crashes... As you can see in the picture upper marked area has much smaller gap than lower marked area... What part I have to change to be able to correct this? Thank you for any help...
Might be with the center pivot base. While building mine, I noticed that the two outermost holes on the base are not circular but rather a bit elliptical. Try to loosen both "red locknuts" and see if you could realign the pivot base. Check for the two screws holding the base as well, one of them might be bent from the impact.

Hope this helps...

Jun
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:41 AM   #1387
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Hi,

need some help! I can not repair my CRC after few bad crashes... As you can see in the picture upper marked area has much smaller gap than lower marked area... What part I have to change to be able to correct this? Thank you for any help...
I think there isnīt anything broken. It seems the center pivot football thing has moved so if you remove the sidesprings you may notice the rear pod wonīt move freely also. Just realign the center pivot according to the manual and you should be fine again. But I think itīs a good idea striping down the rear pod completely for this as for the realignemt process itīs the best just having the center pivot and the lower podplate connected to the chassis.
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:50 AM   #1388
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Hi,

need some help! I can not repair my CRC after few bad crashes... As you can see in the picture upper marked area has much smaller gap than lower marked area... What part I have to change to be able to correct this? Thank you for any help...
it looks like you stretched one of the links or bent the pivot balls or the supports, and the center pivot is moved a little.

remove the links and pivot balls, and check for a bent screw or ball, and compare lengths of the links. the center pivot is probably shifted and just needs to be readjusted after you correct the sides.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:14 PM   #1389
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Thank you! Will look at links, pivot balls, supports and center pivot... Will post my findings...
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:24 PM   #1390
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reset your football.... its outta wacked!

take your wheels off, remove the rear top plate with shock and side tubes, remove the rear side links.... then inspect the football. make sure it moves freely. then reassemble on a flat board (page 2 in the manual for a reference)


i would do Tom Firsching kingpin length .580" (http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...ngChamps08.pdf)
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:27 PM   #1391
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Default Quick question

Just building my WGT and I'm using the 12th scale king pins.

I noticed on the Hupo's and Dumper's set-up is a king pin length of .404"

How is this measured? Bottom of the pin to?

Thanks,

Greg G
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:43 AM   #1392
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reset your football.... its outta wacked!

take your wheels off, remove the rear top plate with shock and side tubes, remove the rear side links.... then inspect the football. make sure it moves freely. then reassemble on a flat board (page 2 in the manual for a reference)
...
Well this is how it looks disassembled









And this is how it looks only with pivot links without pivot fottball...



Could it be that my main plate is badly tweaked...? Pivot links looks even to me... The pivot balls and supports looks good... Screw holes also...
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Old 01-07-2011, 04:07 AM   #1393
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And this is how it looks only with pivot links without pivot fottball...



Could it be that my main plate is badly tweaked...? Pivot links looks even to me... The pivot balls and supports looks good... Screw holes also...
in the first picture, the countersink on the left in the pod plate looks out of round, or is that an illusion?


if there is no visible damage, then just swap parts from left to right to see if the problem follows. if you switch links from left to right, does the gap stay on the left side or does it move with the link?
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:26 AM   #1394
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Where are the 2-56 x 1/4" button head screws that adjust the fit on each end of the link? Those have to be there.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:29 AM   #1395
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Just building my WGT and I'm using the 12th scale king pins.

I noticed on the Hupo's and Dumper's set-up is a king pin length of .404"

How is this measured? Bottom of the pin to?

Thanks,

Greg G
To the bottom of the e-clip groove.

Take a look at this setup sheet. I know it is 1/12th scale, but it shows the distance being measured.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...09IICsetup.pdf


Hope this helps.

dumper
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