CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#1306
Hi,
run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.
I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.
I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
I find I get play in them after some use, like 6 or 7 meetings.
#1307
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Front Hinge Pins
I am building a new GenX10 and I am building the front end. After I tighten the 4 screws to lock in the hinge pin, the A arm does not pivot smooth and free. If I lossen the 4 screws to free it up, I have to loosen them too much. Can someone tell me the process to free the hinge pins up?
#1308
Hi,
run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.
I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.
I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
I donīt know if the LE kit is using the 4mm thick upper pod plate already or if the 2.5mm version is still used. Anyway itīs agood idea running the thicker plate.
#1309
Tech Master
I am building a new GenX10 and I am building the front end. After I tighten the 4 screws to lock in the hinge pin, the A arm does not pivot smooth and free. If I lossen the 4 screws to free it up, I have to loosen them too much. Can someone tell me the process to free the hinge pins up?
With mine, it's the shims that are making it tight, even when I loosen off the screws, so I give the ends of the caster block and top plate a very small rub with some sandpaper. THis makes it a lot smoother.
#1311
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
We will have 2011 1st TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX on Jan 23rd.
TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX will be held every quarter, Jan, April, July and Oct.
We have new classes - Mini-Z and 1/12 Mod.
Here is the TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...rand-prix.html
TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX will be held every quarter, Jan, April, July and Oct.
We have new classes - Mini-Z and 1/12 Mod.
Here is the TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...rand-prix.html
#1312
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Upper Hinge Pin
Just so I understand this correctly. The upper Hinge Pin is actually locked down in the center and the rotation occurs on the ends of the Hinge Pin inside the holes on the upper arm. So I would need to Polish the ends of the Hinge Pin and ream out the holes on the upper arm?
#1313
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Just so I understand this correctly. The upper Hinge Pin is actually locked down in the center and the rotation occurs on the ends of the Hinge Pin inside the holes on the upper arm. So I would need to Polish the ends of the Hinge Pin and ream out the holes on the upper arm?
I didn't have that problem, or I just didn't check.
Bring your car, let me check with mine. Your body is comming tonight.
See you..
#1314
I always thought this to be another tuning option ?
Tight to take grip away from the front and loosening to add grip as you choose?
Well that is how I was using it
Tight to take grip away from the front and loosening to add grip as you choose?
Well that is how I was using it
#1315
Just so I understand this correctly. The upper Hinge Pin is actually locked down in the center and the rotation occurs on the ends of the Hinge Pin inside the holes on the upper arm. So I would need to Polish the ends of the Hinge Pin and ream out the holes on the upper arm?
#1316
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I am BRAND new to 10th scale pan cars. In addition, I am fairly new to carpet racing. I built my GenX LE and raced it for the first time a week or so ago. An experienced racer, Bill Bodine(sp?), was looking at my car and noticed that I have spacers in between the chasis and the front plate. As a result I don't have shims. As a result of the spacers the plate is also not secured to the chasis out on the edges like it is in the former model.
Are people leaving this set up as is or are they removing the spacers and going wtih the shims on the LE?
Also, I was told that when I put the car away after each race taht I need to back the screw out that holds the rear springs so that there's no pressure on those springs while the car is sitting idle. When I go to run the car do I simply screw that screw down until it makes gentle contact wtih the chasis?
Last question, how often do you need to rebuild the center shock and or change the oil in the dampening tubes?
I really appreciate the help!
curt
Are people leaving this set up as is or are they removing the spacers and going wtih the shims on the LE?
Also, I was told that when I put the car away after each race taht I need to back the screw out that holds the rear springs so that there's no pressure on those springs while the car is sitting idle. When I go to run the car do I simply screw that screw down until it makes gentle contact wtih the chasis?
Last question, how often do you need to rebuild the center shock and or change the oil in the dampening tubes?
I really appreciate the help!
curt
I have never backed the tweak springs off for storage. I do not let my car sit on the tires for an extended period of time, I just store my car on a car stand.
I rarely rebuild the center shock. If it is built correctly, it does not leak. As long as it stays smooth, there is no need to rebuild it. Touring car guys are a little crazy with all that shock rebuilding.....
I usually only rebuild damper tubes when I am changing the actual tube lube. But I do tend to travel to more races than most people, which leads me to see different tracks on a consistant basis. So my tube lube needs tend to change once every couple weeks. I think for someone who races at the same place all the time, once a month should be ok.
dumper
#1317
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Hi,
run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.
I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.
I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
#1318
Tech Rookie
Hi,
the first thing i did, is to modify the rear right height adjusters like it says on this page:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=55
But this seems to be only one factor. What i forget to mention is, that i drive the LE on a VERY high grip carpet track in addition with a 13,5T Graupner motor (about 400W). What i am going to try is another Motor Pod Plate on the left side like V12 said. If this doesnt solve the problem i will try to get this stuff:
http://translate.googleusercontent.c...zJN1NPLajn9Fog
the first thing i did, is to modify the rear right height adjusters like it says on this page:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=55
But this seems to be only one factor. What i forget to mention is, that i drive the LE on a VERY high grip carpet track in addition with a 13,5T Graupner motor (about 400W). What i am going to try is another Motor Pod Plate on the left side like V12 said. If this doesnt solve the problem i will try to get this stuff:
http://translate.googleusercontent.c...zJN1NPLajn9Fog