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Old 12-09-2010, 02:59 PM   #1306
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Originally Posted by defencex View Post
Hi,

run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.

I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
Also check you have the axle ride height units seated properly, and both are the same way up.
I find I get play in them after some use, like 6 or 7 meetings.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:06 AM   #1307
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Default Front Hinge Pins

I am building a new GenX10 and I am building the front end. After I tighten the 4 screws to lock in the hinge pin, the A arm does not pivot smooth and free. If I lossen the 4 screws to free it up, I have to loosen them too much. Can someone tell me the process to free the hinge pins up?
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:30 AM   #1308
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Originally Posted by defencex View Post
Hi,

run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.

I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
That micro podplate maybe isnīt a good idea when running 2S. There is a longer left podplate from the first version of the GenX cars what uses the front hole at the lower podplate, same is when using a motor plate at the left side also. Both should make the pod somewhat stiffer. This is working for a friend of me with his GenX10.
I donīt know if the LE kit is using the 4mm thick upper pod plate already or if the 2.5mm version is still used. Anyway itīs agood idea running the thicker plate.
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:34 AM   #1309
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I am building a new GenX10 and I am building the front end. After I tighten the 4 screws to lock in the hinge pin, the A arm does not pivot smooth and free. If I lossen the 4 screws to free it up, I have to loosen them too much. Can someone tell me the process to free the hinge pins up?
Mine is like that too. A lot of it is just that all the parts are now and take a while to break in.
With mine, it's the shims that are making it tight, even when I loosen off the screws, so I give the ends of the caster block and top plate a very small rub with some sandpaper. THis makes it a lot smoother.
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:45 AM   #1310
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I reamed my upper arms and polished the hinge pins to get mine to drop freely.
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:46 AM   #1311
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We will have 2011 1st TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX on Jan 23rd.

TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX will be held every quarter, Jan, April, July and Oct.

We have new classes - Mini-Z and 1/12 Mod.

Here is the TQ PAN CAR GRAND PRIX thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...rand-prix.html
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:04 PM   #1312
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Default Upper Hinge Pin

Just so I understand this correctly. The upper Hinge Pin is actually locked down in the center and the rotation occurs on the ends of the Hinge Pin inside the holes on the upper arm. So I would need to Polish the ends of the Hinge Pin and ream out the holes on the upper arm?
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
Just so I understand this correctly. The upper Hinge Pin is actually locked down in the center and the rotation occurs on the ends of the Hinge Pin inside the holes on the upper arm. So I would need to Polish the ends of the Hinge Pin and ream out the holes on the upper arm?
Steve,

I didn't have that problem, or I just didn't check.

Bring your car, let me check with mine. Your body is comming tonight.

See you..
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:33 PM   #1314
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I always thought this to be another tuning option ?
Tight to take grip away from the front and loosening to add grip as you choose?
Well that is how I was using it
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:44 PM   #1315
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
Just so I understand this correctly. The upper Hinge Pin is actually locked down in the center and the rotation occurs on the ends of the Hinge Pin inside the holes on the upper arm. So I would need to Polish the ends of the Hinge Pin and ream out the holes on the upper arm?
This is correct. The caster block locks the hinge pin and the arm rotates freely on the pin. The arm should fall and raise easily.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:13 PM   #1316
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I am BRAND new to 10th scale pan cars. In addition, I am fairly new to carpet racing. I built my GenX LE and raced it for the first time a week or so ago. An experienced racer, Bill Bodine(sp?), was looking at my car and noticed that I have spacers in between the chasis and the front plate. As a result I don't have shims. As a result of the spacers the plate is also not secured to the chasis out on the edges like it is in the former model.

Are people leaving this set up as is or are they removing the spacers and going wtih the shims on the LE?

Also, I was told that when I put the car away after each race taht I need to back the screw out that holds the rear springs so that there's no pressure on those springs while the car is sitting idle. When I go to run the car do I simply screw that screw down until it makes gentle contact wtih the chasis?

Last question, how often do you need to rebuild the center shock and or change the oil in the dampening tubes?

I really appreciate the help!

curt
The silver washers are for ride height adjustment. Most of us that race take them out and use the part#4262 ride height shims to adjust ride height. We include them for people that want to run "larger" tires.

I have never backed the tweak springs off for storage. I do not let my car sit on the tires for an extended period of time, I just store my car on a car stand.

I rarely rebuild the center shock. If it is built correctly, it does not leak. As long as it stays smooth, there is no need to rebuild it. Touring car guys are a little crazy with all that shock rebuilding.....

I usually only rebuild damper tubes when I am changing the actual tube lube. But I do tend to travel to more races than most people, which leads me to see different tracks on a consistant basis. So my tube lube needs tend to change once every couple weeks. I think for someone who races at the same place all the time, once a month should be ok.

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Old 12-10-2010, 11:18 PM   #1317
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Originally Posted by defencex View Post
Hi,

run my LE for the first time today. In Europe we use 2S Lipos with 13,5T/17,5T. So far i have really big issues with the stiffness of the rear pod. I already updated to the aluminum rear left mirco pod. Basic problem is that eyerytime i accelerate the car, it ends up with a strange noise... My theory is, that the motorpod plate is to weak in addition with the micro pod plate the hole axle moves back and forth while accelerating.

I saw some japanese guys using some custom parts to solve this. Any other advice?
The noise has nothing to do any of those parts being weak. Your rear ride height adjusters are moving in the motor plate or left side pod plate. Making those parts stronger does not fix that problem. You need to fix that problem. 2s racing puts a huge stress on direct drive pan car drivetrain parts. The actual noise is your gear mesh changing as the axle moves.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:17 AM   #1318
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Hi,

the first thing i did, is to modify the rear right height adjusters like it says on this page:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=55

But this seems to be only one factor. What i forget to mention is, that i drive the LE on a VERY high grip carpet track in addition with a 13,5T Graupner motor (about 400W). What i am going to try is another Motor Pod Plate on the left side like V12 said. If this doesnt solve the problem i will try to get this stuff:

http://translate.googleusercontent.c...zJN1NPLajn9Fog
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:31 AM   #1319
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:34 AM   #1320
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A little bit of dremelling is required to get that top plate to work with CRC motor mount bulkheads.
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