I am expecting to receive the new ThunderPower 5000 1S lipo packs later this week. Are you currently running Profile 8 with your 1S pack? Do you use the Novak booster board? Thanks.
Bill
I'm going between 7 and 8. I have 8 right now but I need to do more testing. I don't think I have the rollout right so I have to play around with that also.
I am using a very small 180 mah LOSI lipo receiver pack and a Muchmore voltage regulator. Both are lightweight. The regulator is about the same as the booster and the battery is VERY light (I haven't weighed it). We had some folks try the booster and the pack w/ regulator seems better, but that might be swag more than hard data.
I have the new speedo plate that mounts in the rear of the battery space. I cut off the part of the top deck that isn't attached to anything so the top deck is mostly an 'X'. The regulator is mounted at the front of the top deck and the Rx pack opposite the receiver on the chassis. Almost all the weight on the center line and the battery balances the receiver quite nicely. I'll post a picture if anyone's interested.
I know people are a little unhappy about the top end with 1s, but man, the car is so easy to drive. I think its going to be fun racing.
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Sponsored by the spare change in the couch.
I'm going between 7 and 8. I have 8 right now but I need to do more testing. I don't think I have the rollout right so I have to play around with that also.
I am using a very small 180 mah LOSI lipo receiver pack and a Muchmore voltage regulator. Both are lightweight. The regulator is about the same as the booster and the battery is VERY light (I haven't weighed it). We had some folks try the booster and the pack w/ regulator seems better, but that might be swag more than hard data.
I have the new speedo plate that mounts in the rear of the battery space. I cut off the part of the top deck that isn't attached to anything so the top deck is mostly an 'X'. The regulator is mounted at the front of the top deck and the Rx pack opposite the receiver on the chassis. Almost all the weight on the center line and the battery balances the receiver quite nicely. I'll post a picture if anyone's interested.
I know people are a little unhappy about the top end with 1s, but man, the car is so easy to drive. I think its going to be fun racing.
All good stuff...Thanks Mike.
Bill
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Who will be the next Matt Francis?
Is anyone using the double o-ring in the losi shock and if so any imrpovements? I am re-building my shock for next weeks grand opening of west coast and wondering if I should use the optional 2 o-rings in the shock. Been using only one over the last year. Anyways if I can get review of both options as I would like to get this shock together by Sunday.
Is anyone using the double o-ring in the losi shock and if so any imrpovements? I am re-building my shock for next weeks grand opening of west coast and wondering if I should use the optional 2 o-rings in the shock. Been using only one over the last year. Anyways if I can get review of both options as I would like to get this shock together by Sunday.
Thanks in advance
I did that; but, was less responsive.
Have now replaced the Losi shock with an Xray shock. Mucho better!
I would vote for an Xray or Tamiya shock.
Bill
__________________
Who will be the next Matt Francis?
I do not use the variable height CRC attachment block in the front. Just a ball end attached directly to the top desk. Angle of shock is adjusted with spacers under the ball end at the rear.
Picture was actually taken to show my double thick top piece on the rear pod (two pieces glued together). CRC has now copied that concept and is offering a thicker top piece.
Bill
__________________
Who will be the next Matt Francis?
I do not use the variable height CRC attachment block in the front. Just a ball end attached directly to the top desk. Angle of shock is adjusted with spacers under the ball end at the rear.
Picture was actually taken to show my double thick top piece on the rear pod (two pieces glued together). CRC has now copied that concept and is offering a thicker top piece.
It appears to improve rear traction.
And so does adding a second row of diff bals (now running 12 balls).
Also that Pf Corvette appears have a lot of rear end bite, both at slow and high speed, but lacks a little front, so the car pushes, but then it did give me an extra lap
__________________
http://www.aldershotmodelcarclub.net/ : Next club race meetings - November 22nd / 29th
Classes run: EP Touring (10.5 / 13.5 / 17.5), Pan Car (2s 17.5 / 4c 10.5 / 2s Saturn 20T)
It appears to improve rear traction.
And so does adding a second row of diff bals (now running 12 balls).
Also that Pf Corvette appears have a lot of rear end bite, both at slow and high speed, but lacks a little front, so the car pushes, but then it did give me an extra lap
Yeah I have been running the long links for alittle over a year now, and it definately makes the car alot smoother, more stable over bumps, and seemed to make the rear end less twitchey when getting back on the power.
As for the diff balls I completely agree, the 12 balls is the better setup. I also switched mine to carbide diff balls, and that has made a huge improvement as well. I flat spotted the diff balls that originally came with the car.
Hey espresso, I dont think there is a magic setup for asphault. I am have been running the GenX10 for about 1 1/2 years on a smooth preped track, and the car is seriously hooked up. Pink Fronts, White Rears (RC4less), 20Lb center spring, Green front springs, and Red side springs with acouple of turns on them to settle the car down. -2deg toe out in the front.
I also run Purple Front,with Pink Rears on some tracks, but i find the wear rate to be about the same as with the whites. I get alot more wheel spin with the pink rears, were the whites just hook up.
Yeah I have been running the long links for alittle over a year now, and it definately makes the car alot smoother, more stable over bumps, and seemed to make the rear end less twitchey when getting back on the power.
As for the diff balls I completely agree, the 12 balls is the better setup. I also switched mine to carbide diff balls, and that has made a huge improvement as well. I flat spotted the diff balls that originally came with the car.
Shawn.
I have only just picked up dome carbide diff balls on Thursday, not installed them yet.
Also got hold of some Alloy lock nuts for the diff axle, cos I have already stripped 2 of the nylon nuts.
__________________
http://www.aldershotmodelcarclub.net/ : Next club race meetings - November 22nd / 29th
Classes run: EP Touring (10.5 / 13.5 / 17.5), Pan Car (2s 17.5 / 4c 10.5 / 2s Saturn 20T)
I have only just picked up dome carbide diff balls on Thursday, not installed them yet.
Also got hold of some Alloy lock nuts for the diff axle, cos I have already stripped 2 of the nylon nuts.
Careful with those lock nuts. I've seen several CRC axles have the threaded rod pulled right out of the axle.
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Sponsored by the spare change in the couch.
