CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#796
Rick and Mark,
The only other place I have lived outside of the SF Bay Area is Seattle. Lasted for four months and then it started to rain...Not sure if that particular downpour ever ended; because, we pulled up stakes and moved back to the Bay Area.
Dang! I do love my CRC Gen-X 10; so, WHO KNOWS...
Do they have waterwings available at Timezone? For getting out to the parking lot.
You soggy guys be tough.
Bill
The only other place I have lived outside of the SF Bay Area is Seattle. Lasted for four months and then it started to rain...Not sure if that particular downpour ever ended; because, we pulled up stakes and moved back to the Bay Area.
Dang! I do love my CRC Gen-X 10; so, WHO KNOWS...
Do they have waterwings available at Timezone? For getting out to the parking lot.
You soggy guys be tough.
Bill
#797
Hey guys a little weekend update. yeah as Troy said I think we have actually sold 29 kit's... and the 17.5 lipo class on carpet is great. we know there is a big drop off due to spring coming, and carpet season winding down we are still getting a good turnout.
BUT WE HIT THE ASHPALT this weekend for the first time. te reports coming back from up north in Tacoma they have started their outdoor season on their sealed parking lot and have not had very good traction. From what I have heard the ROAR legal 13.4 4 cell is a handful when trying to get on throttle.
We on the other hand seem to have great natural traction, and have kept the Outlaw GT 17.5 lipo, lilac tire 200mm class. They are incredible, just fast enough to run the whole track, Darren got into the low 19's yesterday adding about 4 teeth from his indoor setup, 30,000 damper fluid white pod spring red fronts, and fairly big tires..... just great easy to drive, and 110 degrees after like 8 to 10 runs.
MOD GT: we have the 235mm cars running 5.5 or 4.5's and either DB pink or lilac fronts with Pink rears, I kept the same carpet setup with 50,000 damper fluid green rear pod springs, red fronts, 30 weight shock oil stock spring. We are talking insane performance with Andy yesterday getting to a 16.0 lap. Still trying to get a handle on gearing Andy lost a speedo or two yesterday, (may have had a bad motor to start with), and then finally on his 16.0 sec runs melted a motor down , but it was pure gearing issue. These things are insane, should get 8 to 10 min run time. and flat out get around the track. The current track record is 15.2 in a 8th scale. 15's are coming easy soon, the track was green, the day was cool.
more info as we get outdoors more, Bill yeah I am Cali boy born and raised, but dam the NW is awsome in spring and summer.
PS: if you think this is cool check-in on our progress on the 8th scale elec conversion of our Mugen MRX3. whoa now this has got potential. already into the 15.'s and 10 plus min run time. just need to get speedo/motor temp and gearing issues under control.
BUT WE HIT THE ASHPALT this weekend for the first time. te reports coming back from up north in Tacoma they have started their outdoor season on their sealed parking lot and have not had very good traction. From what I have heard the ROAR legal 13.4 4 cell is a handful when trying to get on throttle.
We on the other hand seem to have great natural traction, and have kept the Outlaw GT 17.5 lipo, lilac tire 200mm class. They are incredible, just fast enough to run the whole track, Darren got into the low 19's yesterday adding about 4 teeth from his indoor setup, 30,000 damper fluid white pod spring red fronts, and fairly big tires..... just great easy to drive, and 110 degrees after like 8 to 10 runs.
MOD GT: we have the 235mm cars running 5.5 or 4.5's and either DB pink or lilac fronts with Pink rears, I kept the same carpet setup with 50,000 damper fluid green rear pod springs, red fronts, 30 weight shock oil stock spring. We are talking insane performance with Andy yesterday getting to a 16.0 lap. Still trying to get a handle on gearing Andy lost a speedo or two yesterday, (may have had a bad motor to start with), and then finally on his 16.0 sec runs melted a motor down , but it was pure gearing issue. These things are insane, should get 8 to 10 min run time. and flat out get around the track. The current track record is 15.2 in a 8th scale. 15's are coming easy soon, the track was green, the day was cool.
more info as we get outdoors more, Bill yeah I am Cali boy born and raised, but dam the NW is awsome in spring and summer.
PS: if you think this is cool check-in on our progress on the 8th scale elec conversion of our Mugen MRX3. whoa now this has got potential. already into the 15.'s and 10 plus min run time. just need to get speedo/motor temp and gearing issues under control.
#798
Gen-X 10s a go-go...
Excellent news Mad!
Some tips to share with the Great Northwest...and anyone else that wants to read on...
1) Have experienced two times that the Rear Top Plate #1765 on the rear pod got too flexy just in front of the mounting screw at the front of the right side plate. Took two Rear Top Plates and CA'ed them together and remounted with three slightly longer screws. It raised the attachment point of the shock a bit higher at the pod; but, I just took out the spacer I was using under that ballend. Has worked great for several weeks. Time to install: 15 min.
2) Got tired of my Sophia bodies cracking at the tops of the front wheel wells after a few impacts. Body was flexing too much. I now have a fifth body post support up against the bottom of my hood to keep the flex in check. Used a screw type Corally RDX post that just acts as a support perch from the underside...no extra hole in body. This is a mod that I copied from Matt Francis' touring cars a few years ago. Time to install: 20 min.
Some tips to share with the Great Northwest...and anyone else that wants to read on...
1) Have experienced two times that the Rear Top Plate #1765 on the rear pod got too flexy just in front of the mounting screw at the front of the right side plate. Took two Rear Top Plates and CA'ed them together and remounted with three slightly longer screws. It raised the attachment point of the shock a bit higher at the pod; but, I just took out the spacer I was using under that ballend. Has worked great for several weeks. Time to install: 15 min.
2) Got tired of my Sophia bodies cracking at the tops of the front wheel wells after a few impacts. Body was flexing too much. I now have a fifth body post support up against the bottom of my hood to keep the flex in check. Used a screw type Corally RDX post that just acts as a support perch from the underside...no extra hole in body. This is a mod that I copied from Matt Francis' touring cars a few years ago. Time to install: 20 min.
#800
Tech Adept
Jaco front tires
I just switched from GRP fronts to Jaco fronts, but the Jacos seem to be a bit narrower so there is a lot of play between the nut and the wheel.
I used 4 shims to get that out, but there must be some other solution
What are you guys using?
I used 4 shims to get that out, but there must be some other solution
What are you guys using?
#801
Setup's are still developing as we start running outdoors. but for the most part we are running long wheel base.
we see that we have to eliminate the shims up front as we switch to the wider BSR's from the Jaco tires. i run 2 per side when I run them.
we see that we have to eliminate the shims up front as we switch to the wider BSR's from the Jaco tires. i run 2 per side when I run them.
#805
JR3650 with Kimbrough mid-sized servo saver (200 Series). Definitely not the small SS for the GT10/WGT cars.
Bill
Bill
#806
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
WHAT IS WRONG WITH CALANDRA
How long has the GenX 10 been out and not 1 setup. You would think that at least one team driver would post what they have been running. How about at least a setup from Vegas. Now he has a bunch of tuning parts for this thing and no indication when you should be running them. Pretty Sad.
How long has the GenX 10 been out and not 1 setup. You would think that at least one team driver would post what they have been running. How about at least a setup from Vegas. Now he has a bunch of tuning parts for this thing and no indication when you should be running them. Pretty Sad.
#807
WHAT IS WRONG WITH CALANDRA
How long has the GenX 10 been out and not 1 setup. You would think that at least one team driver would post what they have been running. How about at least a setup from Vegas. Now he has a bunch of tuning parts for this thing and no indication when you should be running them. Pretty Sad.
How long has the GenX 10 been out and not 1 setup. You would think that at least one team driver would post what they have been running. How about at least a setup from Vegas. Now he has a bunch of tuning parts for this thing and no indication when you should be running them. Pretty Sad.
Build the car as in the instructions and it is as good as set up.
I race outdoors and all I have done is go stiffer on all springs and use GRP Pinks and an HPI Honda NSX shell.
Only extra I had to do was to add 10g of weight in the rear pod below the axle to prevent the rear jumping out over the bumps on the flat out banking.
DO NOT increase the castor as you will find it pulls the rear round out of corners, less castor is good and gives good turn in with slight understeer coming out.
#809
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Nothing wrong with Calandra.
Build the car as in the instructions and it is as good as set up.
I race outdoors and all I have done is go stiffer on all springs and use GRP Pinks and an HPI Honda NSX shell.
Only extra I had to do was to add 10g of weight in the rear pod below the axle to prevent the rear jumping out over the bumps on the flat out banking.
DO NOT increase the castor as you will find it pulls the rear round out of corners, less castor is good and gives good turn in with slight understeer coming out.
Build the car as in the instructions and it is as good as set up.
I race outdoors and all I have done is go stiffer on all springs and use GRP Pinks and an HPI Honda NSX shell.
Only extra I had to do was to add 10g of weight in the rear pod below the axle to prevent the rear jumping out over the bumps on the flat out banking.
DO NOT increase the castor as you will find it pulls the rear round out of corners, less castor is good and gives good turn in with slight understeer coming out.
RC Tech is great but it shouldn't be replacing the manufacturers support.
#810
Then maybe he should put that in on his website as his Tarmac setup. Now how about one on high bite carpet for mod and another for stock, one for four cell another for lipo. It seems all the others can do this why can't Calandra. I have my car dialed now but it took half a season to get it to grip without traction rolling.
RC Tech is great but it shouldn't be replacing the manufacturers support.
RC Tech is great but it shouldn't be replacing the manufacturers support.