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Old 02-11-2009, 11:52 AM   #691
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Back the screw out and grind it down flush! I didn't want to do this either, but this seemed to be the consensus at our local track. After this, the motor fits fine, and you'll have plenty of gear ratios to work with.

-Steve
What about the screw that holds the mount in place?

I also thought about using 1.5mm shims to mount the motor flush onto the mounting plate. Has anyone at your track used shims before shaving down the CF?
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:30 PM   #692
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What about the screw that holds the mount in place?

I also thought about using 1.5mm shims to mount the motor flush onto the mounting plate. Has anyone at your track used shims before shaving down the CF?
I think we are talking about the same thing. It's the screw underneath the pod plate that holds the motor mount on. I thought about shims too, but i didn't think there was as much surface area for the motor to bolt to. There may be heatsink properties also with mounting the motor flush. Plus, if you have to widen the rear axle, you may have to push the pinion gear too far out to mesh with the spur.

Hope that helps.
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:28 PM   #693
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Bill D

Are you still using the 2400 Lipos or have you gone 4 cell?
Sydewynder,

I am lipo all the way with my Gen-X 10 and 17.5 motors...Never went 4-cell...
1) Originally Orion 3800s
2) Tried the Orion 2400 for two days; but, it was not competitive against 4-cell after 3-4 minutes.
3) Been using 5000 lipos ever since; as are most at NorCal Hobbies.

Bill
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:44 PM   #694
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well i was not sure if it should only be used on a 12th scale or if it would work ok in the gt cars as well, so that makes me feel better knowing someone else is running it thanks Bill
Kevin Woods rightfully corrected me...We are both running TQ 13 wire on our Gen-X 10s. Truly sorry about that!
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:28 AM   #695
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I think we are talking about the same thing. It's the screw underneath the pod plate that holds the motor mount on. I thought about shims too, but i didn't think there was as much surface area for the motor to bolt to. There may be heatsink properties also with mounting the motor flush. Plus, if you have to widen the rear axle, you may have to push the pinion gear too far out to mesh with the spur.

Hope that helps.
Hey smooth, I switched to a 48P 69t spur and 27t pinion. The motor mounts nice and flush and I still keep my FDR without any shaving anywhere. I am not a big fan of 48p gears, but this will do for now.
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:17 AM   #696
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It just dawned on me that i'm running my steering servo on 7.4volts! Is this too much? Should I be running some sort of inline voltage limiter?

Thanks for any help.

-Steve
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:29 AM   #697
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It just dawned on me that i'm running my steering servo on 7.4volts! Is this too much? Should I be running some sort of inline voltage limiter?

Thanks for any help.

-Steve
Its fine Steve, the speedo only sends 6.0 volts to the rec, through the BEC.



Besides Tim "The Tool man" Taylor always said" MORE POWER!!!!! LOL
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:33 AM   #698
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Hey smooth, I switched to a 48P 69t spur and 27t pinion. The motor mounts nice and flush and I still keep my FDR without any shaving anywhere. I am not a big fan of 48p gears, but this will do for now.
I'm running a 100 tooth 64p spur. I can fit anywhere from a 30 to 45 without changing the spur size. To hit your ratio, try a 100/39.
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:14 PM   #699
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Its fine Steve, the speedo only sends 6.0 volts to the rec, through the BEC.



Besides Tim "The Tool man" Taylor always said" MORE POWER!!!!! LOL
Yea thanks Scotty!
Don't you remember my quest for "more power" cost me a motor last weekend LOL!!!

-Steve
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:43 PM   #700
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I'm running a 100 tooth 64p spur. I can fit anywhere from a 30 to 45 without changing the spur size. To hit your ratio, try a 100/39.
Does the pitch really matter on 1/10 pan cars?

Also, I actually pre-fitted a 100/39 48p combo and the motor was rubbing against the flanged CF part. I think the motor pod could have been better designed than what it is now, with that flanged piece sticking out like that.
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:48 PM   #701
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I had the same problem with my GenX 10 and Novak SS13.5 with 100t spur. I just took a dremel and ground the little bump inside the pod off, it probably weakend the structure slightly, but I dont think it will hurt anything a 40t pinion fits with plenty of room now, could probably get up to about 42-3t in there.
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:49 PM   #702
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Does the pitch really matter on 1/10 pan cars?

Also, I actually pre-fitted a 100/39 48p combo and the motor was rubbing against the flanged CF part. I think the motor pod could have been better designed than what it is now, with that flanged piece sticking out like that.
Oh no you want 64p for that ratio. If you want 48s I can get the numbers.
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:53 PM   #703
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Oh no you want 64p for that ratio. If you want 48s I can get the numbers.
70/27 or 70/28 for 48 Pitch.
78/30 or 78/31 also.
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:59 PM   #704
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Harry, rule of thumb has been 48p outdoor, 64p indoor. 64 gives more tuning capability, 48p keeps rocks and trash from stripping your spur.
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:15 PM   #705
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hey guy the only time i have had problems with my bottom motor screw is when i have to put bigger then a 50 tooth pinion i use traxxas motor screws so they have a built in washer when i go big pinion i have to use a regular motor screw no washer and it works fine
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