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Old 12-20-2008, 07:40 AM   #586
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Ok clamping hub arrived just in the nick of time. I can now head on out to the track tomorrow morning. Here are some pics of my freshly painted p905b
I would trim down the front body post so they are only two holes above the body. The way you have them if you hit another car the force will break the front bumper mount (when they get hit)

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Old 12-20-2008, 02:23 PM   #587
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There are some lexan side dams that are part of the rear of the body that you need to cut out and servo tape to the sides of the rear wing in the recessed areas. These give the body its directional stability. It will be loose if you try to run it like it is.

See the attached pic for how they should look.
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CRC 1/10 Pan Car-untitled.jpg  
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Old 12-20-2008, 08:41 PM   #588
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can the crc bumper be used with the p905 body without getting in the way when putting the body on?
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:01 PM   #589
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Nope, ran without a bumper today.

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can the crc bumper be used with the p905 body without getting in the way when putting the body on?
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:02 PM   #590
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Anyone have a template for the side dams? I guess I threw them away but have some lexan to cut out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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There are some lexan side dams that are part of the rear of the body that you need to cut out and servo tape to the sides of the rear wing in the recessed areas. These give the body its directional stability. It will be loose if you try to run it like it is.

See the attached pic for how they should look.
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:08 PM   #591
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can the crc bumper be used with the p905 body without getting in the way when putting the body on?
Not without some trimming of the foam
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:17 PM   #592
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Ok so I get up early this morning and excited to run this new setup. I show up to Crystal Park Raceway and track is being redone and so no go

So quick thinking, I head on out to Bending Corners a bit smaller track but don't want to waste my day and still want to run. Here is a short video of Raffell running it while I took a short video. It was a race Saturday and was able to practice between heats so had fun.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:10 PM   #593
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Hey Crc!!!!
I need help with the gen x 10. The ball links are tight!!!the pod will not move by itself! I have squezz the links to. Can I sand them with 800 grit alittle??
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:18 PM   #594
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Hey Crc!!!!
I need help with the gen x 10. The ball links are tight!!!the pod will not move by itself! I have squezz the links to. Can I sand them with 800 grit alittle??
Have you tried adjusting the pivot plate like it says on page 3 of the manual?

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Old 12-21-2008, 09:06 PM   #595
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Have you tried adjusting the pivot plate like it says on page 3 of the manual?

-=light=-
Yes I did. When I snap the link on one of the ball stud, it will not move freely!! I have had Crc cars befor but never had this problem??????:confused
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:11 PM   #596
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Nope, ran without a bumper today.
thanks espresso, that means i gotta get good at driving it so i dont crash when i get the P905 lol.

man i used to hit up the compton track with my tc car all the time when i lived in LA. hopefully ill be back there sometime next year, hopefully youll still have your CRC then.
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:13 PM   #597
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Hey Crc!!!!
I need help with the gen x 10. The ball links are tight!!!the pod will not move by itself! I have squezz the links to. Can I sand them with 800 grit alittle??
Hi,

Sorry to hear about the link issue. Please, don't sand them!

There is an easy way to fix this problem…. However, there is really no easy way to tell you… but, it’s time to squeeze your balls. Scary huh?

Actually, all joking aside, with the aluminum balls and the plastic links off the car and in your hand, pop the balls in the plastic. If they are bound and do not rock freely, with the aluminum ball in the plastic socket, slightly squeeze the plastic with regular pliers. Move the pliers to a few different angles and slightly squeeze the ball link. The pressure forms the plastic to the aluminum ball perfectly. After a couple of slight squeezes, you will notice the aluminum ball is very free and rocks smoothly with no slop. Try not to go too crazy at first and you will get a good feel of just what it takes to custom fit each ball to the link.

Feel free to e-mail us at info@teamcrc.com if you need any help or assistance.
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Old 12-24-2008, 12:22 PM   #598
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Questions?? hey team crc

hi team crc i found out y the ball links are tight on the gen x 10!! the ball links measured .1725 dia and the new balls measured .1695 dia. if i send the big balls back can would u replace them??
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:05 PM   #599
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Is there a threaded titanium ball joint we can use on our Gen-X 10s instead of the CRC-provided aluminum ones? I assume that they cannot be metric.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:26 PM   #600
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I like to use this Losi ball nut (female ball stud) to replace some of the CRC aluminum ball nuts. Have not seen the identical part in titanium. There are titanium ball studs available. I recommend the steel part, though.

Losi A6009 Losi JRXS female ballstuds, ball nuts (replace soft aluminum) $5.90

Lunsford Titanium ball studs
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXURR1&P=7

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