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Old 12-14-2008, 06:21 AM   #571
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Originally Posted by Darkseid View Post
I need a little help from the pan car experts.

I can't get my Gen X-10 to stop pulling to one side under power. I've tried everything that others have suggested, but nothings working.

I have:
-adjusted the tweak screws
-made sure the tires are all level and the same size
-made sure my rear pod is completely free
-made sure the car tracks dead straight
-loosened the diff to avoid spinning the tires

But nothing seems to work. The car always pulls to the left under power. I'm out of ideas. Even when I ran cheap Tamiya F1 pan cars on dusty parking lots back in the day, the damn cars still went straight under power, so whats the deal here???

Figuring this out is a make or break deal for me with the class. Having a car that wont go straight is no fun to race. So if anyone has any ideas how to solve this let me know.

Thanks
Just in case, check the rear axle bearings . One gritty bearing can cause what you describe. Also, the play (backlash? ) in the axle,which has to be sufficient ( like 1-2 tenth of mm) of course. Good luck !
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:49 AM   #572
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Also, make sure your rear axle is shimmed correctly so it not offset to one side or another and they your chassis is balanced left to right before you touch your tweak screws. You will need to add weight opposite your speed control to balance the car.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:51 AM   #573
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Uneven weight balance left to right can cause that. The lighter side of the car will accelerate faster and cause it to turn. Check your balance and if its off, add a sqaure or 2 of lead to the right side of the car.
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:40 PM   #574
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Picked up two of the manutech bumpers since I am on my fourth bumper and at $25 a pop, willing to try the $10 ones. Though one thing did cross my mind. If this is stronger and instead of breaking the bumper, I started breaking my chassis than it will not be worth it. Will keep everyone posted but I do not plan on crashing much now since I got the hang of the car but if someone bumps me, than that could be a problem. Running a 3.5r will definetyl test this bumper if I crash. Fingers crossed I don't cause any damage to the chassis.

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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Had issues with the stock CRC Gen-X 10 bumper plate from the get go. So, I have to give Manutech a plug for their Gen-X-10 kydex bumper plate. Got it from them for only $10 plus shipping.

Have it teamed with the CRC foam bumper ($4.95). I cut back the leading edge of the kydex plate about 1/2" (following their slots) to make it so the foam bumper overhangs the plate. Now I have a soft bumper to cover my "little" mishaps.

http://www.manutech.info/rcracinghom...gproducts.html


Anyone want to buy my spare CRC bumper plates??? At least they're pretty!
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:30 PM   #575
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Picked up two of the manutech bumpers since I am on my fourth bumper and at $25 a pop, willing to try the $10 ones. Though one thing did cross my mind. If this is stronger and instead of breaking the bumper, I started breaking my chassis than it will not be worth it. Will keep everyone posted but I do not plan on crashing much now since I got the hang of the car but if someone bumps me, than that could be a problem. Running a 3.5r will definetyl test this bumper if I crash. Fingers crossed I don't cause any damage to the chassis.
Just take that Manutech bumber and cut it back to the inside edge of the provided machined slots. Then, add the CRC foam bumper and you will have plenty of front end protection.

Believe me...Mine is fully tested

Love my Gen-X 10...with lipo...
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Old 12-18-2008, 05:26 AM   #576
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Need help guys.

went for a first time run today and i cant full throttle the gen10 because it will just do donuts, also when braking it will also do 360's or sometimes 720' spins all the time.

maybe tighten up the Diff?

left to right weight balance is equal, maybe the front to back weight ratio can cause this spin out?

or does pan cars just normally do that with to much power. its only a 13.5 novak with 7.4 lipo.
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Old 12-18-2008, 05:54 AM   #577
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Originally Posted by s13evo View Post
Need help guys.

went for a first time run today and i cant full throttle the gen10 because it will just do donuts, also when braking it will also do 360's or sometimes 720' spins all the time.

maybe tighten up the Diff?

left to right weight balance is equal, maybe the front to back weight ratio can cause this spin out?

or does pan cars just normally do that with to much power. its only a 13.5 novak with 7.4 lipo.
Check your tweak. It was discussed in detail a few post back along with a setup link. Pan cars are very sensitive to tweak.
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:02 AM   #578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13evo View Post
Need help guys.

went for a first time run today and i cant full throttle the gen10 because it will just do donuts, also when braking it will also do 360's or sometimes 720' spins all the time.

maybe tighten up the Diff?

left to right weight balance is equal, maybe the front to back weight ratio can cause this spin out?

or does pan cars just normally do that with to much power. its only a 13.5 novak with 7.4 lipo.
Sounds like a massive lack of traction. What surface are you running on?
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:33 AM   #579
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Sounds like a massive lack of traction. What surface are you running on?
was testing on a dusty volleyball/basketball court. well i tighten the diff real tight and will test on a real track this weekend.
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:52 AM   #580
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was testing on a dusty volleyball/basketball court. well i tighten the diff real tight and will test on a real track this weekend.
Well that was your problem then. car didn't stand a chance on a dusty gym floor.
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:57 AM   #581
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Need help guys.

or does pan cars just normally do that with to much power. its only a 13.5 novak with 7.4 lipo.
You may want to downgrade to a 17.5 motor. Car is gawd awful fast with a 13.5 and 7.4 lipo...
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Old 12-19-2008, 08:55 AM   #582
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
Picked up two of the manutech bumpers since I am on my fourth bumper and at $25 a pop, willing to try the $10 ones. Though one thing did cross my mind. If this is stronger and instead of breaking the bumper, I started breaking my chassis than it will not be worth it. Will keep everyone posted but I do not plan on crashing much now since I got the hang of the car but if someone bumps me, than that could be a problem. Running a 3.5r will definetyl test this bumper if I crash. Fingers crossed I don't cause any damage to the chassis.
Breaking the chassis is certainly worse that breaking a carbon bumper, that was one of the main considerations in the design of the Kydex version. Impact zones along the front edge, proposely a little weak/thin where it bolts to the frame, and of course the selection of matieral. I am still running the original proto-type teamed up with the crc foam and after 40-50 races, have not had any issues. Thanks to everyone that is giving them a try!!
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:52 PM   #583
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was testing on a dusty volleyball/basketball court. well i tighten the diff real tight and will test on a real track this weekend.
13.5 w 7.4V on a dusty gym floor??

Ya...thats the problem alright.

Too much power and your driving on "ice"...very bad test combination.
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:16 PM   #584
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13.5 w 7.4V on a dusty gym floor??

Ya...thats the problem alright.

Too much power and your driving on "ice"...very bad test combination.
ehehe yeah i didnt know it was gonna be that bad. because i usually test my TC car on that outdoor court and never experience too much slipping.

thanks guys, will try test on a real track and see if i have to downgrade to a 17.5 motor.
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:11 AM   #585
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Ok clamping hub arrived just in the nick of time. I can now head on out to the track tomorrow morning. Here are some pics of my freshly painted p905b











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