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Old 12-07-2008, 05:32 PM   #541
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Are you going to be racing world gt or just bashing? I run a big nitro track with 3.5r Novak 7.4 lipo. I originally ran 17.5r but way to slow for the track I run on and was on the verge of getting run over by 1/8th nitros. If you are going to be racing world gt follow the motor specs for your track. If just bashing and depending on your experience go with 13.5 and if it really is a big track 3.5r would be good just don't try to push it to the limit or you will have tons of pieces to pick up if you hit a hard barrier. By the way what track are you going to be running?
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:56 PM   #542
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Having problems with my diff. I fitted 3 bevel washers to help but it has not. even if i have it very tight (can not turn nut any more) the diff still slips!!!!
Have i got soemthing built wrong? If I release the nut 1/4 turn it slips really bad!!!

Alan
Hi Alan,
I had a similar problem last summer. I had taken a really hard rear end hit and afterwards I couldn't get the diff to set properly. Eventually I found that the axle had a crack in it between the right pod and the pinned diff. I found it when the axle sheared in two. I don't know why that would effect the setting on the opposte side of the pinned diff but I had no more problems after I replace the axle.

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Old 12-08-2008, 05:53 AM   #543
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Hi Bill
Thanks, already using an alloy nut but only 8 balls, It just appears that I have no fine adjustment. It's either lots of slip or a little and the nut is locked solid with no more adjustment. this make me think I have something wrong somewhere

I'm running 12 diff. balls with a alloy nut. I also added about 4 axle shims and now I can set the diff the way I want it. I put the shims between the outer bearing and the red alum. spacer. Seems to works good for me.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:29 PM   #544
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So is anyone using the expansion kit and what are your reviews on it. I am buying the kit tonight and Protoform P905B body and give it a run in two weeks. Anyways would like to hear from someone running 235mm.
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:19 PM   #545
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I'm running 12 diff. balls with a alloy nut. I also added about 4 axle shims and now I can set the diff the way I want it. I put the shims between the outer bearing and the red alum. spacer. Seems to works good for me.
Are those the 1/4" ID spacers?
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:47 PM   #546
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Are those the 1/4" ID spacers?
Should be. I had a supplement in my manual that said to do this...

BTW, check your PM box.
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Old 12-09-2008, 05:26 AM   #547
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I'm running 12 diff. balls with a alloy nut. I also added about 4 axle shims and now I can set the diff the way I want it. I put the shims between the outer bearing and the red alum. spacer. Seems to works good for me.

Try running this instead of the shims, smooooooth.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFKL0&P=7
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Last edited by Cammer; 12-09-2008 at 05:27 AM. Reason: link
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Old 12-09-2008, 05:46 AM   #548
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Are those the 1/4" ID spacers?
Yes they are the same as the shims you use between the bearing and the hub on the other side of the axle.

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Try running this instead of the shims, smooooooth.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFKL0&P=7

I'm using the light weight diff rings and ceramic Cefx balls and it is silky smooth so far. The thrust bearing looks like a good idea but has a 4mm I.D. and looks to weight about 40lbs. lol
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:16 AM   #549
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I need a little help from the pan car experts.

I can't get my Gen X-10 to stop pulling to one side under power. I've tried everything that others have suggested, but nothings working.

I have:
-adjusted the tweak screws
-made sure the tires are all level and the same size
-made sure my rear pod is completely free
-made sure the car tracks dead straight
-loosened the diff to avoid spinning the tires

But nothing seems to work. The car always pulls to the left under power. I'm out of ideas. Even when I ran cheap Tamiya F1 pan cars on dusty parking lots back in the day, the damn cars still went straight under power, so whats the deal here???

Figuring this out is a make or break deal for me with the class. Having a car that wont go straight is no fun to race. So if anyone has any ideas how to solve this let me know.

Thanks
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:19 AM   #550
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So is anyone using the expansion kit and what are your reviews on it. I am buying the kit tonight and Protoform P905B body and give it a run in two weeks. Anyways would like to hear from someone running 235mm.
Yeah I do. Most of IROCC runs the wide kit with the 905B high downforce body. Nice combination. Some drivers find there is to much front downforce with the HD body, and use the medium.

Shawn.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:33 AM   #551
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Originally Posted by Darkseid View Post
I need a little help from the pan car experts.

I can't get my Gen X-10 to stop pulling to one side under power. I've tried everything that others have suggested, but nothings working.

I have:
-adjusted the tweak screws
-made sure the tires are all level and the same size
-made sure my rear pod is completely free
-made sure the car tracks dead straight
-loosened the diff to avoid spinning the tires

But nothing seems to work. The car always pulls to the left under power. I'm out of ideas. Even when I ran cheap Tamiya F1 pan cars on dusty parking lots back in the day, the damn cars still went straight under power, so whats the deal here???

Figuring this out is a make or break deal for me with the class. Having a car that wont go straight is no fun to race. So if anyone has any ideas how to solve this let me know.

Thanks
I had that issue and it was a combination of tweak and tightening the diff that solved it. A loose diff will put more power to one side and make it pull more to one side.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:39 AM   #552
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Originally Posted by espresso1967 View Post
So is anyone using the expansion kit and what are your reviews on it. I am buying the kit tonight and Protoform P905B body and give it a run in two weeks. Anyways would like to hear from someone running 235mm.
I'm also IROCC and I have found with that body I use Green front springs and Black fronts with White rear springs and Double Pinks it works alright. As for the rear hubs I went with one piece units from IRS

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Old 12-09-2008, 08:43 AM   #553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid View Post
I need a little help from the pan car experts.

I can't get my Gen X-10 to stop pulling to one side under power. I've tried everything that others have suggested, but nothings working.

I have:
-adjusted the tweak screws
-made sure the tires are all level and the same size
-made sure my rear pod is completely free
-made sure the car tracks dead straight
-loosened the diff to avoid spinning the tires

But nothing seems to work. The car always pulls to the left under power. I'm out of ideas. Even when I ran cheap Tamiya F1 pan cars on dusty parking lots back in the day, the damn cars still went straight under power, so whats the deal here???

Figuring this out is a make or break deal for me with the class. Having a car that wont go straight is no fun to race. So if anyone has any ideas how to solve this let me know.

Thanks
When you say adjusted the tweek srcews, have you checked the tweek by lifting the front and rear of the car from the center line or used a tweek station to check preload on your tires. Sounds like you have your right rear tire preloaded . Also check the balance of your car.
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Old 12-09-2008, 10:43 AM   #554
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Originally Posted by Cammer View Post
Try running this instead of the shims, smooooooth.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFKL0&P=7
Slapmaster Tools has a thrust bearing kit specifically for the Genx10. The actual part number is not on the website yet, but contact Brian if you want to order:

http://www.slapmastertools.com/110-1...st-bearing.php
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:52 PM   #555
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Slapmaster is the cat's meow!
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