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Old 11-10-2008, 10:03 PM   #466
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When might we expect some setups from the team drivers, or at least a Blank setup shet on the CRC website so we can record our own....kinda laggin' behaind CRC.
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:49 PM   #467
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I could use some help with spur gear selection. I will be running 13.5 possibly 17.5 / 7.4V and read somewhere that 72/25 was a good starting point with spec CRC foams. What style of spur does the CRC run in 72T-48 pitch? Prefer a Kimbrough if someone has a link. Kit should be in Thursday...trying to line everything up still.

TIA.
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Old 11-12-2008, 06:07 AM   #468
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
I could use some help with spur gear selection. I will be running 13.5 possibly 17.5 / 7.4V and read somewhere that 72/25 was a good starting point with spec CRC foams. What style of spur does the CRC run in 72T-48 pitch? Prefer a Kimbrough if someone has a link. Kit should be in Thursday...trying to line everything up still.

TIA.
72 is def 64p
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:28 AM   #469
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on a pretty big track, roll out around 2.46" for 17.5, or gear down 2-3 teeth if the track is a little smaller. Or, you will need to gear down to around 2.10" if you're running 13.5.

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Old 11-12-2008, 07:45 AM   #470
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
I could use some help with spur gear selection. I will be running 13.5 possibly 17.5 / 7.4V and read somewhere that 72/25 was a good starting point with spec CRC foams. What style of spur does the CRC run in 72T-48 pitch? Prefer a Kimbrough if someone has a link. Kit should be in Thursday...trying to line everything up still.

TIA.
We run on a relatively small track and while running 17.5/Lipo, we ended up at something like 2.41 rollout. That was after constantly going down on teeth. And the more we went down, the better the car got. I think we were still a bit overgeared by the end of the night, so we'll likely go out at something like 2.19 rollout and see how that works. The car really has too much power for most small/medium tracks with 17.5/Lipo, so expect to be going down a couple teeth.

As for spur/pinion, I ended up running 98/33 in the main. But I will likely start out with 98/30 next time out.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:43 PM   #471
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Thank you for the help on rollout guys...but I'm no closer to knowing what spur gears to order. Does anyone have info to order the correct spur that fits a CRC x 10 48P for 13.5 / 17.5 foam? A link or source to order from would be great.
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:35 PM   #472
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At tower put in Kimbrough differential gear.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS455&P=7

John
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:43 PM   #473
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In cazse anyone is considering one...

World GT Starter Set (CRC Gen-X 10 NIB)
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Old 11-12-2008, 03:15 PM   #474
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My Gen 10X came with a 110 tooth 64 pitch pinion.
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Old 11-12-2008, 09:41 PM   #475
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At tower put in Kimbrough differential gear.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS455&P=7

John
Thank you John...Looks like possibly the TC5 spur will work.

New kit arrived today and I got it started, but got stopped on the 2-56 ball stud install. They thread into the "dogleg" top plate straight into the graphite...Problem is...the ball studs are not threaded all the way to the hex shoulder (about 1.0mm short!), you get so far in and SNAP.

Yes, they were started straight, and I even used cutting oil to install...there is no way those are going all the way in to the shoulder without breaking, and or cracking the top plate. So...I was able to drill out the top plate, and get the other one most of the way in....just curious if others had this issue. Suppose I could install washers under them if they all are that way....needless to say not a good start.
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Last edited by Verndog; 11-12-2008 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:35 AM   #476
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Thank you John...Looks like possibly the TC5 spur will work.

New kit arrived today and I got it started, but got stopped on the 2-56 ball stud install. They thread into the "dogleg" top plate straight into the graphite...Problem is...the ball studs are not threaded all the way to the hex shoulder (about 1.0mm short!), you get so far in and SNAP.

Yes, they were started straight, and I even used cutting oil to install...there is no way those are going all the way in to the shoulder without breaking, and or cracking the top plate. So...I was able to drill out the top plate, and get the other one most of the way in....just curious if others had this issue. Suppose I could install washers under them if they all are that way....needless to say not a good start.
Yes, others have had this problem. Fellow board member Core Creations even had to get a replacement from CRC because his upper plate broke while trying to install those ball cups. And he's a 12-13 year vet at this, so he knows what he's doing. But the plate simply shattered!

Mine did not thread in all the way either. There is a very small gap between the shoulder of the ball stud and the graphite plate. Just use the 1/4 turn...stop, 1/4 turn...stop, 1/4 turn...stop, method until you have them in as far as they will go. If your already using oil to install them, thats the best advice I can offer. Just take it SLOW! As you continue assembling the kit, you will find that this was not the only item that wont thread all the way in. Here are some of the places where I simply COULD NOT thread items in all the way without fear of breaking something:

-Red button head screws that hold the top plate to the rear pod. Again, a small gap is left simlar to the previously mentioned ballstuds. A very small gap, but a gap none the less.
-Black button head screws that hold the front body post in place. The post are solid, but not completely locked down against rotating. But the screws simply wont go in any futher.
-Be careful when threading in the tweak screws in the side plates. Make sure they go in straight, and even if they do, I had one that was insanely tight, and one that was almost too loose. No consistency between the two graphite plate pieces. So just take it slow until you see how easy/hard it will be to thread them in.
-Watch it when threading the screws into the alloy pieces. Some of the holes in the alloy pieces aren't exactly tapped perfectly.

I really like the car, but I was NOT impressed with the quality of some of the kits graphite and screws. This was my first pan car, and I had heard so many good things about CRC, that I have to admit I expected much better fit and finish wise from one of their kits.

Once you get through all the assembly troubles though, the car is beautiful, and handles very well on the track.
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:39 AM   #477
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... Just use the 1/4 turn...stop, 1/4 turn...stop, 1/4 turn...stop, method until you have them in as far as they will go. If your already using oil to install them, thats the best advice I can offer. Just take it SLOW!
Thats pretty much how I got the second one to go...1/4 turn in and 1 out to clear the thread. I've been a machinist 29 years, have tapped 10's of thousands of holes and this isn't happening with ball studs that aren't threaded to the end, or at least a thread runnout where the ball stud is slightly undercut. Tapping carbon fiber with a weak screw is a bad idea, the carbon turns to dust and packs the threads into a bind.

Thanks for taking time to write...misery loves company. $33.00 later I have more ball studs coming, and another top plate in case I cant get all the steel threads out of the other hole.
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:53 AM   #478
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Tapping #2 x 56 holes
I don't recall having this problem with the 2 x 56 studs (I did assemble one of these kits) although I shudder any time I have to thread anything that small. Maybe we should recommend that those two holes in the graphite be tapped with a #2 x 56 tap. These taps are available at most hobby shops. I have one in my kit as well as a 4-40 tap. The ease of install in the tapped hole will compensate for the short non threaded segment that exists on all ball studs that I have seen.
Check screw holes, that did not bottom the screw, for debris inside the hole. Jet or pick it out. This is just a thought, there might be a problem with dimensions that exists.

yes TC3 or TC5 spurs will work.
john

Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-13-2008 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:45 AM   #479
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Thats pretty much how I got the second one to go...1/4 turn in and 1 out to clear the thread. I've been a machinist 29 years, have tapped 10's of thousands of holes and this isn't happening with ball studs that aren't threaded to the end, or at least a thread runnout where the ball stud is slightly undercut. Tapping carbon fiber with a weak screw is a bad idea, the carbon turns to dust and packs the threads into a bind.

Thanks for taking time to write...misery loves company. $33.00 later I have more ball studs coming, and another top plate in case I cant get all the steel threads out of the other hole.
If you can't salvage the other top plate, I would give CRC a call. They are aware that people have had issues with this, and should be willing to replace your top deck.
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:28 PM   #480
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Hey guys, just built my x10 and was wondering has anyone notice the difference in the front end pics on CRC website. It has a turnbuckle between the front arms. I wonder if there will be a cross brace that will fit in the holes in the front suspension. I hope I am making sence.
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