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Old 02-10-2016, 04:45 AM   #4066
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Questions on pan car design/oil bottle.

1. Why dose the crc car use such a slender shock?

2.I like the bottle the shock oil comes in, any one know were I can get more?
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:33 AM   #4067
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Questions on pan car design/oil bottle.

1. Why dose the crc car use such a slender shock?

2.I like the bottle the shock oil comes in, any one know were I can get more?
The encore shock is one of the best pan car center shocks in the industry. The original car came with a Losi TC shock. This shock is just as plush and very tune-able.

No answer for #2. Mine cracked and leaked all over my WTF-1 box.
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:42 AM   #4068
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The encore shock is one of the best pan car center shocks in the industry. The original car came with a Losi TC shock. This shock is just as plush and very tune-able.

No answer for #2. Mine cracked and leaked all over my WTF-1 box.
ok cool, thanks guess I'll stay away
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:17 AM   #4069
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I've got a question regarding the 1/12th scale Slider-Pod used on the CRC Gen X 10 SE. If I want to lower the car down to a ride height of 5.5mm what would be the largest possible tyre diameter?
Do I have to true the tyres down almost to the rims?
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:15 PM   #4070
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I've got a question regarding the 1/12th scale Slider-Pod used on the CRC Gen X 10 SE. If I want to lower the car down to a ride height of 5.5mm what would be the largest possible tyre diameter?
Do I have to true the tyres down almost to the rims?
Why do you want largest tire diameter and 5.5mm ride height?

I guess truing tires down to 55-56mm should bring you close. With 54mm tires you should be able to have 5mm ride height. Untrued BSR Foam Spec Tires are 60mm, Contact RC - 63mm and rim size is about 49mm on both.
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:23 PM   #4071
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Hello Liudas,

thanks for your reply.

I'm thinking about converting a CRC Gen X 10 SE to 235mm width, to run it outdoor with 2S 10.5T blinky. But I don't like the idea that the tyres might only last 1 or 2 runs if the tire wear is high on asphalt.

Besides does anyone know the weight distribution between front- and rear axle? Would I achieve about 40%-60% if I use a Touring Car 2S Lipo like the LRP 430223 (138x47x22,5 272g)? The chassis is also very narrow would the electronics fit in front of the battery (LRP Flow ESC)?

A simple thing would be to increase the wheelbase when creating a new (wider) Butterfly on the front.
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:39 PM   #4072
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Originally Posted by Mirko View Post
Hello Liudas,

thanks for your reply.

I'm thinking about converting a CRC Gen X 10 SE to 235mm width, to run it outdoor with 2S 10.5T blinky. But I don't like the idea that the tyres might only last 1 or 2 runs if the tire wear is high on asphalt.

Besides does anyone know the weight distribution between front- and rear axle? Would I achieve about 40%-60% if I use a Touring Car 2S Lipo like the LRP 430223 (138x47x22,5 272g)? The chassis is also very narrow would the electronics fit in front of the battery (LRP Flow ESC)?

A simple thing would be to increase the wheelbase when creating a new (wider) Butterfly on the front.
Hi Mirco; about your tire wear, I run pink dots on the rear of my 235 and got about 2-1/2 hrs. of practice time on a small tight track. I think you're thinking the worst case here. Also, on your weight distribution, I'm seeing about 60/40 rear/front. And on your thoughts on battery configuration, I'm running saddle packs. My 10L likes a little more weight nearer the rear tires. It doesn't help rear tire wear, but is necessary for rear traction. The best advise I've heard yet, is to run two 1s. They are lower, good for CG. And also, on a quick note my car likes the servo behind the turn-buckles. I've seen pic's in here where the servo is mounted in front of them. And, probably the most important thing to remember is that these tips are based on my findings on my 10L.
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Old 02-18-2016, 05:29 AM   #4073
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Couple questions. New to CRC and World GT cars but I do race 1/12 so some familiarity.

1. Where is a good library of setup sheets for the Gen-X 10 SE, I looked and couldn't locate any.

2. Running spec foams, 1s, 13.5 blinky, for club races what is a good starting diameter for the front and rear tires?
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Old 02-18-2016, 06:41 AM   #4074
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Couple questions. New to CRC and World GT cars but I do race 1/12 so some familiarity.

1. Where is a good library of setup sheets for the Gen-X 10 SE, I looked and couldn't locate any.

2. Running spec foams, 1s, 13.5 blinky, for club races what is a good starting diameter for the front and rear tires?
Which Carpet do you have? If you have the new CRC black carpet if you true any bigger than 52mm rears youll traction roll. That said I start at 51.5mm r 51mm f. Youll use 2-3 sets of fronts to 1 set of rears. Just adjust ride height as you sway in the bigger fronts.
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Old 02-18-2016, 06:56 AM   #4075
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Couple questions. New to CRC and World GT cars but I do race 1/12 so some familiarity.

1. Where is a good library of setup sheets for the Gen-X 10 SE, I looked and couldn't locate any.

2. Running spec foams, 1s, 13.5 blinky, for club races what is a good starting diameter for the front and rear tires?
this is what i used to start my setup and went from there:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...showpage&pid=7

i do my rears 54mm or 53mm and my front 1mm smaller than i do my rear..depending on my pockets depth around that time and just let time and running true them down and i run them until i cant run them anymore
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:10 PM   #4076
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Which Carpet do you have? If you have the new CRC black carpet if you true any bigger than 52mm rears youll traction roll. That said I start at 51.5mm r 51mm f. Youll use 2-3 sets of fronts to 1 set of rears. Just adjust ride height as you sway in the bigger fronts.

We have older medium grip carpet for now. Soon to get the new high grip stuff though.

Thanks for the advice guys.
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:08 AM   #4077
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Tried the stock setup with 54 rear 53.5 front on old gray carpet at 4mm ride height. Car was horrible. Traction rolled everywhere and would hook like crazy. Also lifts the inside rear tire like crazy. I'll cut the tires down to 52.5 and 52 and try again. I ended up putting two full turns on the kingpins up front to preload the front end and take out droop. That helped, dropped to half sauce up front that helped but took away steering. Put the 0 steering blocks in up front and that also helped but slowed steering down.

Gonna go to harder springs all around, smaller tires and diff grease in the rear tubes to see if that helps.
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:48 AM   #4078
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How long are your saucing? That may play into it also. I do no more than 5 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Also not starting the process til the heat before. Also are you using roll center shims?
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:18 PM   #4079
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Only 5 minutes? Then I'm way over saucing. I sauced them like my 1/12 a half hour. Duh!!! I'll try the five minutes method thanks!

Also I have the 5 mm blocks in the arms and also one millimeter of shims liftin the entire front suspension plate up another 1mm to get the chassis down to approximately 4.2-4.5mm front ride height.

Did I do that wrong by raising the entire suspension and graphite plate that holds it all together?

Sorry for the dumb questions CRC newb here.
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:11 AM   #4080
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Keep in mind Im running on the new Carpet, that said on the old stuff I NEVER did more than 10 minutes You want it long enough so you dont get tire fade at the end, but not too long that your rolling over in the groove.

In regards to shims, I want my carbons touching. Mainly its less likely to tweak if they are sandwiched together. Do you have a hole reamer? Or small file? There are 2 holes on that plate CRC wants the screws to thread into. Ive reamed those just as wide as the screws, so that there is zero bind on that plate. Get the screws started and close to snug, then stand the car on the back wheels and tighten. Plate will be perfectly square, and tweak free. Then space under the 5mm block to set ride height. Below is the ride height shims we use. On WGT ill cut a notch in the end holes wide enough to loosen the block screw, slide in the shim, then tighten it down. It eliminates having to back the screw completely out, then shim, then reinstall. Quicker.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...FQ-raQod-F8GIA
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