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Old 11-23-2015, 05:51 AM   #4021
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Try 1 hinge shim fwd and 1 toe out for better cut in. Set 1.5mm rear droop, 50k tube lube, maybe 40wt oil. From Chang's 1/12 cheat sheet: "In general anything that stiffens rear end, adds steering". How is the diff adjusted to traction? I thought it just has to be very tight and very smooth.

Is it a good idea to try straightening a bent left clamp hub? Last crash tweaked it about 0.2mm, wondering if it will hold or has metal already gotten too weak..
I went up to 30k in the damper tubes and it helped. It's just odd as I run F1 cars including the WTF-1, 12th scale and WGT cars and all work great. I thought downforce wouldn't be an issue at these speeds, but it is. New body time.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:12 AM   #4022
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I'm interested in building a crc pan car can someone tell me what hex drivers I'll need?
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:30 AM   #4023
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hello, is there a way to use 2S 7.4v Shorty lipo packs in the GenX 10SE ? how to put the battery in place ?
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:06 AM   #4024
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Just use 26mm standoff and you're well
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:16 AM   #4025
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I'm interested in building a crc pan car can someone tell me what hex drivers I'll need?
.050", 1/16", 3/32", 2mm, and 2.5mm You will also use a very small .035" for assembling the damper tubes, but an "L" key comes with the kit that is sufficient and no need to have a "handled" wrench for this.

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hello, is there a way to use 2S 7.4v Shorty lipo packs in the GenX 10SE ? how to put the battery in place ?
CRC P/N 1537 - 1" standoffs from the F1 kit meant for using that exact battery.


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Old 12-09-2015, 08:31 AM   #4026
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Thanks boys !
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:47 AM   #4027
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can the crc GenX-10 SE World GT car kit accept standard-sized 2s (not shorty) Lipos? If so, will i need any special parts?
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:51 AM   #4028
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Questions??

I have 2 questions after receiving my SE last week

1. I would like to know is there a problem if the servo splines are not center of the chassis?

2. Is it normal for the side tube balls to break during installation? I'm not pissed just annoyed
Why not just use the red balls that are all over the car
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CRC 1/10 Pan Car-dsc_0457-1280x720.jpg   CRC 1/10 Pan Car-dsc_0403-1280x720.jpg  
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:13 AM   #4029
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anyone have any ideas on how to gain more steering? my WGT is pushing pretty tough. i switched out my caster from what i believe was 10* and now i'm running 0* and it's still pushing. i'm also running 12th scale .45 front spring. i range from 10k-22k on tube lube w/ white side springs. i run 1* camber and 1* toe out on each side. i kind of figured anything anymore aggressive than 1* toe out would be masking another issue that i have with my vehicle. anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:04 AM   #4030
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how much tire additive are you using on front tires?
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:18 AM   #4031
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full front right before i come out generally. sometimes i'll let it sit like half a qualifier before i have to go out
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:42 AM   #4032
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Originally Posted by Stuff Of Legend View Post
I have 2 questions after receiving my SE last week

1. I would like to know is there a problem if the servo splines are not center of the chassis?

2. Is it normal for the side tube balls to break during installation? I'm not pissed just annoyed
Why not just use the red balls that are all over the car
Hello Legend,

Your pictures are great and really helped me understand your issues.

1. I do not believe that the Savox unit is one of designated steering servos for the car. The location of its output shaft does not allow for centering of the output shaft in the chassis. I use either the JR3650 or KO PDS951 steering servos in all of my CRC pan cars for perfect alignment. But, I have seen some WGT cars successfully use non-centered servos by making minor adjustment to the steering output of their transmitters to handle the small difference in steering you will have going from left-to-right.

2. Aluminum ball studs won't thread into the carbon fiber; so, CRC uses smaller steel studs. I assume the small side tube ball stud was possible defective; so, contact John Firsching at CRC for a solution. He may be reached at john@teamcrc.com (or call). John is the best!

Glad to see that you are joining the WGT group. Great class!

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Last edited by Still Bill; 02-04-2016 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:45 AM   #4033
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I assume you use strongest additive available.
I and other fast guys in our club let additive sit on tires from 10 to 20 minutes (First time up to 30 minutes - if tires were not used for a week or so). Most of the time 3/4 - sometimes full. Side walls are glued. Contact RC or BSR spec tires. Additive CS-High Grip or Spider Grip - Green.
Are your tires wearing flat?
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:47 AM   #4034
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how much tire additive are you using on front tires?
For what kind of surface?

On carpet, it usually varies from 3/4 to 1/2 of the front tire (from the inside to the outside).

On asphalt, it varies between full to 3/4 for most situations I have experienced.

Rear tires are always full coverage for both scenarios.

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Old 02-04-2016, 08:48 AM   #4035
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