TyoBBS

I have hub IRS because i don't like extensions from CRC but with a "big" motor...

Solution:


Bearing alive

Stuff Of Legend

iTrader: (1)

I tried angling the front arm forward.
As you guys said it gives more steering from mid corner especially on throttle.
opens a whole new door for my tuning caster / camber / tire wear

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Slapmaster Thrust Bearing. Use them on all my pan cars.

Bill

TyoBBS

Fiber Rear Lower Plate (Slider Kit) seems more weak than old one. Now i will test our option part in aluminium:

Harold996tt

I am a 1/8 gp guy getting into pro 10 as a nice distraction. Have picked up a CRC and IRS rear axle as well as the lajf Racing 235mm conversion. Will start the building this weekend and probably use a shock from one of my touring cars as will be going with 2s and a 4.5 turn to run on my 1/8 track. Can I understand how the Slapmaster thrust bearing is used and what it does to save the cars bearings. I decided not to go with the CRC 235mm conversion because of what I read about the blowing out of rear bearings. Any info much appreciated.

InspGadgt

The outside of the diff has an adjustment nut to adjust diff tension. This applies pressure directly to the outer bearing race in the hub in a lateral direction. These bearings were never meant to take pressure in that direction so when you get the slightest amount of dirt in them it makes your bearing go bad. A thrust bearing is made to take pressure in the direction applied. It does slow down the diff action some but greatly increases the diff's life span.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Someday I hope to have these available, especially for those in Europe where 1/8th tracks are more prevalent.

Harold996tt

Well noted and a great explanation. Much thanks. I assume is one applied next to the lock. Nut of the diff. I note that there are different axle spacings available... What width should one be using and how do we determine what width to use please -Much thanks again.-

Harold996tt

That looks like a lot of fun. Here in singapore electric 1/8 cars based off their gas powered siblings (motonica and serpent and in 4wd) are starting to get popular but to me will never replace the 1/8 gp cars. I like the idea of 1/10 cars capable of running the speeds of 1/8 but using my touring car batteries and electronics to save costs.

Cancun Tom

I noticed a tab of some kind on the end of the axles. Would they be some kind of quick mount for the front wheels? Also where to find them? Thanks

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

That's why I built this one. I was one of the original guys making the conversion for GP cars but I was discouraged by the diminishing returns they created. I wanted something of the larger scale but use standard power systems.
The one in the picture is with a 4.5T 550 motor running on 2S. It's hella fast!

The problem is that we don't have a regular place big enough to test at.

I was having a blast running pan cars so I thought "why not make one bigger?"

rcgen

After two months running my old R5 and getting back into WGT racing, I will have a new SE coming in next week. I spent this whole end reading and catching up on this thread.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Kewl.

rcgen

Looks like I will busy this weekend. Any building tips I need to know and save me some headaches later on?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Is that for carpet or asphalt?

I sand and seal all the edges of the cf components.

Use a little Shoe-goo between the flat surfaces of the front bumper plate and the main chassis plate to fortify the three screws that hold them together. Helps in big impacts. And can still be easily taken apart if you ever damage the front bumper plate.

For the reversed steering servo laying flat on the servo mount plate, I also use Shoe-goo underneath the servo to help keep it in place. Have had the post mounts get loose.

Consider ceramic balls in the diff and ceramic bearings all around. Use the optional hard anodized center pivot ball and side link balls. Slightly ream out bottom side of side links until they pivot freely on the balls.

Bill