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Old 05-06-2014, 08:39 PM   #3736
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Hello Bill
I use 2s & 13.5 blinky on our track was fast than touring with same motor ..
I want use SE because spare parts its hard to find..
Space is not a issue....some suggestions for setups?
If space is not an issue with the SE...Does that mean that you plan to use 2S shorty packs?

Still not clear on what surface you race on. Need more information to give a good answer.

And, what tires would you be using? WGT spec or other?

Bill
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:19 AM   #3737
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Right ..yrs i plan to use shortly lipo ...i use on asphalt with med /low grip
About tire or Italy tire (enneti) or UFRA ..
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Old 05-07-2014, 04:42 PM   #3738
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Extremely consistent and predictable handling from the rear of my cars. Making for a very easy to drive car that is also fast. Works on both carpet and asphalt surfaces. Like Wayne (SG1) says, he is able to run lighter 7,000 to 10,000 lube with this configuration. I am almost always using 10,000.

This weekend i will test and my christmas present



I donīt finished yet but I could not go to sleep without seen in my LE


THANKS and regards
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:27 PM   #3739
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selling my SE
CRC GenX-10 SE
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:42 PM   #3740
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This weekend i will test and my christmas present



I donīt finished yet but I could not go to sleep without seen in my LE

THANKS and regards
Dang! Nice! I should have sent you some screws too. LOL

FYI...I did not rebuild that shock before sending. Shock oil probably should be renewed. Should be 30 wt.

Bill
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:53 PM   #3741
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Dang! Nice! I should have sent you some screws too. LOL
hahha but i'm afraid to dismounting metric ball maybe can broke it. I prefered to test like that and i will improve

Quote:
FYI...I did not rebuild that shock before sending. Shock oil probably should be renewed. Should be 30 wt.

Bill
Changed and with the same: 30wt


regards
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:18 PM   #3742
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hahha but i'm afraid to dismounting metric ball maybe can broke it. I prefered to test like that and i will improve

Changed and with the same: 30wt


regards
I thought that I had inserted the SAE balls with 4-40 threads. The metric balls I included should be without threads. I think...LOL

The CRC Pivot Ball Popper Tool #4279 is very helpful when installing/removing the balls. That is what I used to put them in.

Currently watching the recording of the F1 practice at Barcelona this weekend. Go Fernando!

Cheers!

Bill
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:29 PM   #3743
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Go Hamilton!
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:07 PM   #3744
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Go Hamilton!
Hammy has it far too easy this year...Too much dominance by Mercedes. But, I do like his attitude since moving from McLaren.

Have been an Alonzo fan for quite a while here.

We can duke it out at the IIC...LOL

Bill
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:29 PM   #3745
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Tested this weekend:


VERY GOOD FEEL ON THE TRACK

After each lipo (old shock) with white dust under chasis and now clean: New shock/spring can support my car

Thanks and regards
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:51 PM   #3746
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Tested this weekend:

VERY GOOD FEEL ON THE TRACK

After each lipo (old shock) with white dust under chasis and now clean: New shock/spring can support my car

Thanks and regards
Jaume,

Good to hear. Have a few more thoughts.

At the front end...

What wear pattern do you experience on the front tires? Do they get cone shaped with more wear on the outside; or, do they wear evenly?

The screw holding the servo saver to the servo's output shaft does not look right in the photo. Does your servo saver operate properly?


At the rear end...

Like SG1 previously posted...Consider placing the inside ball studs for the side tubes on the upper side of the top pod plate and raise the outside ball studs by 1/2" (using standoffs) to make the side tubes level. Use 10,000 weight lube in the side tubes. Works on WGT cars and should be transferrable to yours.

Cheers!

Bill
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Last edited by Still Bill; 05-13-2014 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:18 AM   #3747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
If space is not an issue with the SE...Does that mean that you plan to use 2S shorty packs?

Still not clear on what surface you race on. Need more information to give a good answer.

And, what tires would you be using? WGT spec or other?

Bill
Hello some suggestion?...use UFRA tire or Enneti on asphalt mid grip...
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:04 PM   #3748
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What wear pattern do you experience on the front tires? Do they get cone shaped with more wear on the outside; or, do they wear evenly?
Evenly but front right more clear in this picture:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12547244-post3407.html

Quote:
The screw holding the servo saver to the servo's output shaft does not look right in the photo. Does your servo saver operate properly?
I will check...

Quote:
At the rear end...

Like SG1 previously posted...Consider placing the inside ball studs for the side tubes on the upper side of the top pod plate and raise the outside ball studs by 1/2" (using standoffs) to make the side tubes level. Use 10,000 weight lube in the side tubes. Works on WGT cars and should be transferrable to yours.
I will test it
Last weekend i put 1407 in outside ball studs (without moving inside ball studs) and i like it. It's better!


regards
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:08 PM   #3749
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Hello some suggestion?...use UFRA tire or Enneti on asphalt mid grip...
Of course it's better UFRA

1- Better grip
2- Better glue
3- Can use more time in good conditions


regards
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:06 PM   #3750
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Originally Posted by TyoBBS View Post
Evenly but front right more clear in this picture:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12547244-post3407.html


I will check...



I will test it
Last weekend i put 1407 in outside ball studs (without moving inside ball studs) and i like it. It's better!


regards
Jaume,

All of my experience is with spec WGT tires which are probably harder than what you are using; so, I am not sure I can contribute much about what is happening to the inside of your right tire.

Four things to try...
First, use the inside holes on the steering blocks. On asphalt, I am always using them to get even tire wear.

Second, reverse the ball stud placement in your servo saver and attach the steering links so they are swept back to the attachment points on the steering blocks. With the links basically straight, the steering can go "over center" and the inside tire will tend to flop around a bit so it does not track properly.

Third, try 0 or 5 degree Upper Arm Mounts. Consider switching back to the standard plastic upper arm mounts because the aluminum units can get bent in a big shunt.

Fourth, use CRC #3279 Roll Center Kit to raise the Upper Arm Mounts which will decrease the amount of camber gain you experience as the front suspension moves upward (under load). I have these parts on all three of my asphalt and carpet cars.

Sorry about all the options; but, I do think you will find a solution by trying some of the above.

What I really like about these cars is that testing the different setups can be as fun and interesting as racing.

Good luck with determining the solution.

Bill
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