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Old 09-23-2013, 09:11 AM   #3421
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Thanks Bill, will make the changes and see if that will help. What center spring would you recommend?

I bought the car used from a local guy here in South Carolina, not sure where he got it though.
Tanis,

Can you describe your track(s)?

Our local carpet track closed over a year ago; so, both were likely sold at that point.

Bill
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:45 PM   #3422
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Tanis,

Can you describe your track(s)?

Our local carpet track closed over a year ago; so, both were likely sold at that point.

Bill
Ozite carpet 72'x46' track about 6 months old, med grip. I large straight and sweeper with tight to med layout. Running around mid 9 sec laps.

I like the car a lot, it's almost an LE but with the McKune chassis.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:19 PM   #3423
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Ozite carpet 72'x46' track about 6 months old, med grip. I large straight and sweeper with tight to med layout. Running around mid 9 sec laps.

I like the car a lot, it's almost an LE but with the McKune chassis.

Thanks
Troy had a great idea when he engineered that car; but, I do like the slightly longer side links that came on the LE.

Start testing with how much camber you can put in at the front end until the car starts traction rolling; and, then, back it off to the point that you don't traction roll. And, you do need to continue correcting camber as traction goes up (or down). This camber trick is not necessarily the best for front tire wear; but, it is the fastest in the turns to be running at the max camber possible. This was one of Brian Wynn's (Dumper's Speed Shop) best tuning aids in my book.

One warning, I have been fastest qualifier multiple times only to continually traction roll during the main. So, if you live on the edge, you will have to reduce camber as traction goes up during a race day.

Most of the time...I am working in the range of 1/2 to 3/4 degree; but, I have been down to 1/4 degree (IIC) and up to 1 degree (asphalt) for certain conditions.

Forgot to ask...Are you running regular WGT rules or something different?

Bill
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:03 PM   #3424
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Troy had a great idea when he engineered that car; but, I do like the slightly longer side links that came on the LE.

Start testing with how much camber you can put in at the front end until the car starts traction rolling; and, then, back it off to the point that you don't traction roll. And, you do need to continue correcting camber as traction goes up (or down). This camber trick is not necessarily the best for front tire wear; but, it is the fastest in the turns to be running at the max camber possible. This was one of Brian Wynn's (Dumper's Speed Shop) best tuning aids in my book.

One warning, I have been fastest qualifier multiple times only to continually traction roll during the main. So, if you live on the edge, you will have to reduce camber as traction goes up during a race day.

Most of the time...I am working in the range of 1/2 to 3/4 degree; but, I have been down to 1/4 degree (IIC) and up to 1 degree (asphalt) for certain conditions.

Forgot to ask...Are you running regular WGT rules or something different?

Bill
Thanks for the info, I will give that a try. Yes, we are running WGT rules. If the purple shock spring is to stiff, what would you start out with? All the guys at CRC are great, CRC is actually the place I started racing back in the early 90's.

Thanks,
Ed
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:02 PM   #3425
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Thanks for the info, I will give that a try. Yes, we are running WGT rules. If the purple shock spring is too stiff, what would you start out with? All the guys at CRC are great, CRC is actually the place I started racing back in the early 90's.

Thanks,
Ed
Sorry, I got too caught up in the camber thing; and, forgot the center spring issue.

I use a red center spring on carpet most of the time. CRC just came out with two new sets of center springs (5 soft/5 firm) that I still need to play with. Pretty much have only used the CRC red/green/purple and an Associated blue on carpet in WGT. The blue being the softest of the four springs.

The CRC website also has the new Pro-Tapered side springs. They come unpainted. Team CRC will have them at the IIC in a few days. Got to test those too.

And I still need to get myself to CRC some day. Looking for a nice motorhome to do that trip and tour America's carpet tracks.

Bill
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:13 PM   #3426
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Count me in for that trip Bill. Sounds like fun!

AWD
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:06 PM   #3427
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Count me in for that trip Bill. Sounds like fun!

AWD
OK...a motorhome with two bedrooms then. But, I haven't seen one like that yet...LOL

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Last edited by Still Bill; 09-23-2013 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:32 PM   #3428
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Smile Advice needed.....

We have been given unlimited access to the velodrome here. So we have tested 3 times so far. This past Sunday we took a broom to sweep as much of the track off as we could. There were a dead tarantula spider as big as my fist, poop from who knows what kind of critter, and a live grasshopper as big a a sparrow, among lessor odds and ends. Although the track is the smoothest concrete I've ever seen it doesn't appear to have been sealed. We've had rain all week so we thought that on Sunday the track would be dust free. WRONG! It was like trying to drive on ice. I believe the concrete is emitting a fine dust as it cures??? Don't know much about it. My need is to find some kind of tire that will work. My choices seem to be capped slicks which don't work or foams which I haven't tried yet. I also plan to bring my garden sprayer and some orange soda to try at a spot coming out of turn 2 which is extra slippery. So far I've tried my CRC 235mm pan, my AE RC10LS wide pan, and my AE RC10L2/Maverick narrow pans. All have traction issues. Basically they just swap ends very quickly. As an experiment I took my Losi XXXS touring car and even with 4WD not any better traction. I did have slicks on it. Any and all suggestions would be very welcomed by myself and my local mates. Thanks......Cancun Tom
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:03 PM   #3429
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Never had success driving on concrete. If you paint the concrete with an epoxy paint or even better a tennis court paint it works well.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:34 PM   #3430
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I think a proper coating of soda will get you as close as anything.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:38 PM   #3431
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We have been given unlimited access to the velodrome here. So we have tested 3 times so far.

This past Sunday we took a broom to sweep as much of the track off as we could. There were a dead tarantula spider as big as my fist, poop from who knows what kind of critter, and a live grasshopper as big a a sparrow, among lessor odds and ends. Although the track is the smoothest concrete I've ever seen it doesn't appear to have been sealed. We've had rain all week so we thought that on Sunday the track would be dust free. WRONG! It was like trying to drive on ice.

I believe the concrete is emitting a fine dust as it cures??? Don't know much about it. My need is to find some kind of tire that will work. My choices seem to be capped slicks which don't work or foams which I haven't tried yet. I also plan to bring my garden sprayer and some orange soda to try at a spot coming out of turn 2 which is extra slippery.

So far I've tried my CRC 235mm pan, my AE RC10LS wide pan, and my AE RC10L2/Maverick narrow pans. All have traction issues. Basically they just swap ends very quickly. As an experiment I took my Losi XXXS touring car and even with 4WD not any better traction. I did have slicks on it. Any and all suggestions would be very welcomed by myself and my local mates. Thanks......Cancun Tom
Tom,

I've run many Velodrome Races on 3 different velodrome tracks - one of which was very slick and smooth.

A couple very important things

A) you need Pan Car type Cap Tires for High Speeds - currently I believe John at BSR RACING is the only one that will/can still make these (Make sure to tell him it's for a Velodrome - you want what we call EHW tires, I believe had made 3 possible compounds - GOLD - SILVER - ORANGE (You want Narrow also)

B) you want a body for High Speeds (A normal "Nascar" type body, or on-road body will make too much front down force - giving you way too much steering.) McAllister was the last company who was making this type of body and selling it commercially. (Although I believe it's removed from his website, I'd contact him www.mcallisterracing.com ) He knows VELODROMES as he was one of the partners in the old RC THUNDERDROME Velodrome races in Southern Cal.

C) You want to dial the steering down on almost ANY car you choose to use - we use to run something like 20% or less. (even with a no downforce body)

D) Run a WING on the rear of the body with side dams, mount it low and move it back to most of the wing is behind the rear section of the body, but have a very very small kick up on the wing, with the chord of the wing mounted very flat. (Probably no more than 8 - 10 mm on the kick up, maybe less)

If you can WASH the track, that would be great...however we were able to just use a good lawn blower on the tracks we used with great success. (Sweep if needed before blowing)

Here's a video from one of the Velodrome races I put on at the Velodrome in Encino CA

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:13 PM   #3432
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Thanks joe. I'll try the wing placement as you suggest. I use the Puegot 905B HD body, without the rear wheel wells cut open and a Gurney wicker at the end of the wing surface. I am using John's narrow capped pan car tires, hard fronts and soft rears. Also some stagger with the outside tires slightly larger diameter. I think this body has too much front downforce. My difficulty is more on coming out of 2 & 4 not so much entering 1 & 3.
I do take steering out of it like you suggest. Thanks for the detailed reply. This forum is a valuable resource to me.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:54 AM   #3433
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Yeah unfortunately that version of the body does have more front downforce than other versions of the body...There were 3 versions of it originally that I recall...one of which did not have the front wing molded in and would probably work better for you. But only 1 of the 3 versions were brought back.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:56 PM   #3434
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What does it do if you add washers between the hex standoff and pivot ball?

Also, I can't seem to get my gear mesh quiet when at low speed like my 1/12 scale. It's set right, is it just the Gen 10x?

Last edited by Tanis103; 09-28-2013 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:49 AM   #3435
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What does it do if you add washers between the hex standoff and pivot ball?

Also, I can't seem to get my gear mesh quiet when at low speed like my 1/12 scale. It's set right, is it just the Gen 10x?
Anyone?
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