bigtee

whats the best way to setting up side springs and tweak ?

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

I normally screw the tweek screws down till the spring just touches the pod plate then tweek from there. I use the quarter method for setting tweek but without the quarters ,I'm not a fan of tweek bars cause the bubbles arn't always true. Hope this helps.

bigtee

Whats the quarter method?

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

I can't explain it in words here well, but I could show you at the track during the week sometime.

bigtee

Ok I will be at mrh on sat. Who is this

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

So I fixed my genx le.

Chassis was broken at the front bumper mount, ca the leftover bits and then jb-welded on a plastic front bumper and left it overnight on a clamp. Chassis looks straight, no tweak whatsoever. good as new and even took a few good impacts the next practice day!

Liked the car so much, I bought another new one off a member here.

sparkyboy22

Has anyone tried to fit the sliding rear pod from the 12th Xti to the 10th LE?

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

the genXI pod (slider) is not a direct fit onto a WGT chassis. The spacing of the screw holes in the bottom of the slider side plates are different as compared to the older style side plates with plastic ride height inserts. Also, the dimension from the center pivot's screw to the axle's centerline is significantly shorter on the XTI's slider pod. On the bright side, CRC does offer a complete package of slider pod conversion parts for the WGT cars. It's however quite an expensive upgrade because it includes not only the fancy new side plates, but also new graphite pieces. So the slider conversion kit costs over $80. IMO, the fixed side plates are preferable anyway. But that's just my opinion. It's so quick and easy to swap out the ride height adjusters on the normal pod that spending $80+ just for the convenience of slightly easier ride height adjustment doesn't seem worth the cost. For those who must have the slider's convenience, CRC does offer the conversion. It may not be listed on the site yet, but if you call CRC, they will surely hook you up.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I believe the new rear pod moves the motor to improve pod balance also. You can bolt their rear diffuser on the new pod too.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

The slider rear end for the LE is part #1768. It has been out for a little while, and is in stock now!

ALBOP

iTrader: (2)

I've purchased two of the new sliding rear pods, one for my gen XI and the other for my LE. Best upgrade I've done to each car, well worth the money

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

I've had mine for awhile-works great!

TyoBBS

After 1 year i need to change: Graphite Bottom Plate (part 1766).
Another driver in my track with the same problem (hole of Red pivot Ball (part 13615). Is normal to have to change in asphalt track with ride height (middle) 6.5 to 5.5mm?

thanks and regards

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Depending on how much you run and/or how much you hit things, you probably should be replacing the Graphite Bottom Plate one or two times each year

And do use the #40194 - Hard Anodized T-Bar (center pivot) Balls and the #13616 - Hard Anodized side link balls (low roll center) for their smooth action (and durability) on all types of tracks.

Or, when using the standard red aluminum side link balls, make sure that the screws go in all the way to the top of the balls...for durability.

Bill

Spencer Beck

I just picked up a used CRC from eBay for some world Gt racing at my local southern California tracks just because its the class I haven't tried yet. I've done the dirt thing for years now and touring car is just so expensive to jump into again.

Both of the tracks I want to run at are asphalt (WCRC) and carpet (TQ).
What would be a good tire set up for these types of surfaces? I understand that asphalt and carpet tracks might require a different compound.

I have enjoyed cruising this thread for a while now

Thank you for all the info.